Author: Kathy Scott

Friday 24th Feb

By 10 30 we were motoring away from Koh Panyee with the mainsail up, the intention being to head straight for Koh Phanak, the island we had first visited when we began our Phang Nga Bay excursion earlier in the month. Looking at the map, however, I noticed we would be passing near to Koh Khai and remembered it as a place that was highly recommended in the Hong guide that Jack had given us. Paul made a quick course change and we arrived there at midday. Koh Khai is shaped a bit like a snail when looked at from a distance and the nearer we got to it the prettier it looked.

The guide stated that we might need to swim into the Hong, which was fine by me as I was really feeling the effects of the heat by then. Paul rowed us over to it while filming and commentating with the GoPro which is proving to be a great asset for recording events and places. It became clear as we got closer that small and low as it was, we would be able to take the dinghy under the rock entrance and right on to the tiny beach. Once inside, it was deliciously cool and we could see that this fabulous little Hong with very steep sides was similar to the ones we’d seen before, except this one was in miniature! We parked the dinghy and waded into the clear water for a swim and a closer look at the amazing rock features above our heads. As it was such a pretty and peaceful spot, and we were in no great hurry to reach Phanak we stayed a while longer and had lunch when we returned to the boat.  The heat hadn’t abated by the time we set off again so I sat on deck to get as much of the breeze as possible for the rest of the journey to Koh Phanak.  There aren’t many anchorages around Phang Nga Bay that don’t have a picturesque view and our next one was no exception. Paul went out in the dinghy to check out the area for our visit the next day. There were several kayakers with guides exploring the caves and the coastline. It’s always useful to watch them because the guides know the locations of the entrances of the Hongs and the best and safest times of day to enter regarding tides.

Sat 25th Feb

At 10am with the sun already hot but with an accompanying cool breeze, we set out in the dinghy to look at our final Hong of the trip. The choppy water made for a bit of a bouncy ride but it was lovely to sit gazing at the beauty of the scenes around us. People on the kayak in front of us were pointing and smiling at something on the cliff’s ledges which it turned out to be a solitary monkey who was doing a pretty good imitation of us gawping at it! It sat and stared blatantly back at all of us watchers with our phones and cameras aimed at it, completely unfazed. A bit further on, Paul slowed the dinghy so that I could photograph two more who looked like they were having a chat on their ledge. We got fairly close and I grew alarmed by the look on their faces, convinced they were going to jump into the dinghy with us, much to Paul’s amusement.

The tide was quite high by 11am and the Hong entrances didn’t look as though they could take a dinghy. We did, however, spot a cave that looked promising – dark and low and twisty, but promising. In we went. I had to use the flashlight on my phone as we went further in because we’d forgotten to bring a torch. There was an extremely pungent smell inside – musty and slightly sulphurous but at least the walls were dry, and I used them to push us away from some of the jagged rocks in the shallow water. It was exhilarating even when it was dark in front and behind us. Paul rowed when the water got deeper and we saw a glimmer of light ahead but the roof was so low we almost had to lie flat at one point. When we reached the light we could see that it wasn’t a Hong, more a cavern with a slit in the roof. Paul swam a bit further on while I held the dinghy steady with a rope attached to an overhanging rock. He was only gone for a minute but it felt eerie sat there alone…in the darkness…in total silence.  I was glad to hear him come back – he said it was a dead end but that it had been a thrilling swim. We had the current with us on the return trip and I positioned myself flat on the bow with the phone’s light to guide us back.

At midday we left Phanak and set the course for Yacht Haven Marina, but first we wanted to find somewhere nice to stop and anchor for lunch. With everywhere as far as the eye could see looking gorgeous, there was a vast choice on offer. After picking out Koh Wa Yai, we anchored off its coast and dinghied ashore for a walk. It’s not a resort, but luxury holiday bungalows are advertised for £25 a night and we’d spotted people on the beach and children playing on swings so we hoped that there might be a beach bar or café there. There wasn’t, so we had a short ride along the coast to have a nose at the accommodation (elegant chalet-style bungalows, an ideal place for an away from it all break).

After lunch on board we motored on to Yacht Haven and anchored outside the marina at about 5 30. The Deck bar beckoned before sunset, so back in the dinghy for a drink there and then on to Mama Papa’s restaurant for dinner. It’s definitely the best place I’ve eaten at in Thailand and each time we’ve been it’s been busy, mainly with yachties of all nationalities. It’s always the same friendly lady who cooks the meals, and she often takes the orders too! She does an amazing job, helped by only a few other family members. A varied choice of meals are freshly cooked in a small open kitchen, so the chips I have there – with a spicy cashew salad – are delicious, and a welcome change from the ‘fries’ most places serve.  We had to navigate our way back to Sister Midnight using my phone as a torch again in case other dinghies were heading out from between the boats and pontoons. Back to a berth on the marina pontoon tomorrow.

Sunday 26th Feb

It wasn’t until 2 o’clock that we weighed anchor and were guided to our pontoon by staff on a marina dinghy. It was very calm, so berthing was easy and we wasted no time getting connected to power and water and wifi. The rest of the afternoon was spent getting the boat shipshape and catching up on internet stuff. Later Paul went to check us in and I took a huge bag of laundry to the marina facilities at the top of the hill. Paul had lots of computer work to catch up on in the evening and I had a bit of reading to do ;). Inevitably we both fell asleep in the cabin, waking up in the early hours to walk the half dozen steps to bed. Almost time to check out of Thailand and begin the leisurely journey back to Malaysia.

Kathy

Thursday 23rd Feb

It was hard to believe we were anchored when I woke up this morning – it had been such a calm, still night there was no movement at all on the boat. I was up at 6 30, in the cockpit with the binoculars watching the bats soaring above the peaks of the Hong in the early morning light. When Paul got up around 7 30 he said it was time to get going – this happened to coincide with our neighbours on the catamarans doing a jolly morning workout routine: facing each other from the decks of their boats, they sang and chanted whilst dancing and exercising and cheering each other on. We weighed anchor and moved on.

For most of the morning, the autohelm and I took on the steering and watching while Paul tried to get a signal to send his work reports.

We were heading for a small Muslim fishing village called Panyi which has quite a fascinating history. Two families from Java, Indonesia set out at the end of the 18th century to seek a suitable place to settle and make a living from fishing. It was agreed that whoever found such a spot first would raise a flag to alert the others, which is how the village came to be called Panyi (panyi means flag). All the families living there today are said to be descended from those original settlers. We had read up about it and looked at images online. It looked an incredible place – a village built on tall wooden stilts at the foot of a limestone cliff and boasts a market, souvenir shops, seafood restaurants and a notable mosque.  As we got nearer to it a longtail boat followed us from behind until it was close enough for the guy at the helm to gesture that he would show us where to anchor. We weren’t sure if we had a choice or not, and he led us to somewhere different from where we’d intended to drop it, but there were fishing buoys around and he may have been keen for us to avoid nets so we stopped where he’d indicated. The area was full of other longtails and motorboats carrying visitors to and from the piers of the village. It’s a popular destination to visit for lunch in the seafood restaurants or an afternoon of browsing the stalls.  After we had anchored the guy in the longtail drew alongside to tell us he would take us ashore and guide us around the village (for a fee, naturally). He didn’t really want to take no for an answer until I made the universal sign for sleep and even then he said he’d come back later.

We wanted to wait until all the day visitors had departed anyway.  He returned as promised at 4 o’clock just as were getting ready to go across. He got the message when he saw the dinghy but we thanked him for the offer and had a friendly chat with him about the village.

It was short hop across to the visitors’ jetty and some small boys came running up, eager to help Paul tie it up. I was struck by how flimsy the structure seemed as we walked off the pier and into the ‘streets’. The stilts are wooden and are sunk into thick, smelly mud teeming with all kinds of wriggling creatures. I couldn’t help thinking how awful it would be to topple in; the walkways are fairly narrow, often with no barriers on the sides.

Luckily there was no risk of being jostled because all the day visitors had gone and we seemed to be the only visitors there. This fact made me feel slightly awkward because it felt like we were gawping at people’s houses at times, especially as you could see right inside to their living area while walking by. The central part of Koh Panyi is a concrete floor that connects to a row of tiny souvenir shops, and from there a narrow maze of uneven planks leads to the villagers’ wooden homes.  It would be easy to become disorientated in the network of walkways and small shops, all of which sell gifts such as tee shirts, batiks and handmade items made of shells and coconut shells.

Away from the centre, the space opens up between the wooden houses and you can see the seafront where all the restaurants are…but the smell lingers. We ambled around the souvenir stalls, had a look at the grand and gleaming mosque but were unable to go inside because only Muslims can enter it, and then on to the floating football pitch, built out of bits of wood and fishing rafts by local children back in 1986. Football is popular here despite the confined space, and we saw a group of boys playing it underneath the cliff.  We had intended to eat here but we weren’t hungry enough and as it looked as if it was about to bucket down with rain, Paul was keen to get back to Sister Midnight in case the anchor dragged. The dinghy trip back was a wet one: the heavy shower and a strong wind started just as we were getting in it, and we felt quite cold by the time we reached the boat (feeling chilled really is a novelty here). The anchor had held well despite the strength of the squall – we hadn’t moved an inch. Some more pics below of Koh Panyi Village.

Monday 20th February Krabi to Koh Dam Hok

We had to wait until the tide was right before leaving Krabi so it was late afternoon when we got to the fuel dock to refill for the passage.  Anyone fed up with me relating how hot it is yet? Well…it was hot and very humid too so once we were out of the river and back out on the shallows it was such a tonic to feel the sea breeze on our skin. The mudbanks were much more visible on the return trip but Paul was more confident this time and we made it across much quicker, with no threat of going aground.  Paul chose a great place to stop for the night, just as the light was beginning to fade. Several mooring buoys were available near the small, charming island of Koh Dam Hok. Through the binoculars I could make out a long strip of white sand and what might be a ranger’s hut. A few longtail boats were anchored near it but it clearly wasn’t the busy thoroughfare for marine traffic we’d experienced at Ao Nang, which we could see lit up in the distance.  I picked up a mooring buoy (have I mentioned that I can do this pretty skilfully now ;)) and we were securely tied on to it before sundown – in fact we sat on deck in the cool evening air to watch the sun set and as it was such a clear night we lingered up there until it was full dark, enjoying the peace and the starlit sky… such are the simple pleasures of this sailing life 🙂

Tuesday 21st February Koh Hong

The security of the mooring buoy and the serene location proved to be ideal conditions for a deeper and longer sleep. However, I was glad to be up in time to see the sunrise when Koh Dam Hok was revealed in all its glory: shades of green from the dense forest behind the spotless white sand, a turquoise sea and a clear blue sky, were all enhanced by the pinkish early morning sunlight. I could have admired it for ages. Paul went for a swim after breakfast to check the condition of the hull and we slipped our mooring at 10 o’clock to journey to Koh Hong. We were able to have the sails up for a while during this passage, although it’s never long before they start flapping and the engine is turned on again. I keep forgetting to mention that the fishing line is usually trailing behind us on these trips (once, it even caught a juicy bit of seaweed).

At 1 30 we arrived at Koh Hong and after sussing out that there were once again plenty of free mooring buoys, we motored around the triangular-shaped island for a better look at it.  One side was quite lively: two long beaches with lots of day visitors and associated longtail boats. The water was busy with divers, swimmers, snorkelers and kayakers. Round the corner was a smaller, more peaceful beach with fewer vessels so that’s where we (I) picked up a mooring buoy after we’d been round the whole coastline. This is flagged as another ‘must see’ Hong and it was easy to see why.  The binoculars showed steep, rust-coloured stripy cliff sides, surreal rock formations, sea caves and intriguing creeks and inlets. Add to those the gorgeous beaches, lush vegetation and the awe-inspiring Hong itself, and this Hong’s got the lot! The day visitors begin to leave from about 4pm so we waited until 4 30 for our dinghy trip. Our first stop was a cave behind the trees on the beach which could have come straight out of the kind of Enid Blyton adventure stories I devoured as a child. It was dark and eerie inside. I couldn’t see any bats – lots of stalactites and stalagmites and dark corners dripping with water though. Paul went further in but it didn’t lead to another Hong so we left and dinghied round the corner to the main one.

Taking the dinghy into the Hong’s lagoon was delightful (to begin with). It’s huge, and I kept seeing beautiful blue birds flying off the branches of the trees on the sides of it. My mission then was to get a picture of one of them. Part of the enjoyment of being inside a Hong is the tranquil setting, the bird calls, spotting wildlife and taking in all the nature on display.  The general advice is that outboards should be turned off when inside in order not to disturb the wildlife and to respect the surroundings. It’s nice to row around it in a leisurely manner anyway. Pictures from inside Koh Hong below.

Unfortunately, despite almost having it to ourselves, we were subjected to calls and screeches of a human kind when a motorboat carrying about a dozen tourists (either French or Russian) entered the lagoon and began whooping and cheering and jumping in the water, and then compounded the rudeness by playing loud, ghastly Eurotrash music. I was seething with indignation and would have loved to let them know how ill-mannered they were (I tend to go into grumpy old woman mode a lot more frequently these days ;)). Anyway I know it wouldn’t have done a lot of good to confront them. I did manage to get a picture of one of the pretty blue birds on our way back to the boat though (it can just about be seen).

Wednesday 22^nd February Koh Roi

It’s a smoother and faster exit from a mooring buoy and not having to flake the anchor frees me up to get things tidied and sorted below. It doesn’t take long for the cabin to get cluttered and for items to go astray if the rule of ‘a place for everything and everything in its place’ isn’t adhered to :). We also need to keep up with charging phones and various other devices so we make the most of the power inverter while the engine is running. Up above, scenes straight out of the glossy pages of travel brochures were coming into view on the port side: golden beaches and palm trees with luxury holiday accommodation nestling in the jungle-like forest. There is nothing garish about these resorts, the buildings blend in with the surroundings and they are designed so that it never becomes too crowded.

We arrived at Koh Roi at about 2pm and decided we would visit this Hong earlier. From our anchorage we could see the arched, cave-like entrance to the Hong and looking through the binoculars I could see that people were stooping underneath it to get in. Paul checked the tides and worked out that 3 30 would be a good time to visit. As luck would have it, it looked as if the beach was deserted as we approached on the dinghy. Looking around me I was struck by the sheer beauty of our surroundings. It’s hard to describe in words, I think the pictures convey it well, but it’s the very size of the rocks, and their solid, molten shapes that look almost too crafted to be natural that inspire such awe. Travel writer Thomas Swick sums it up well in an excerpt from his book, The Joys of Travel: And Stories That Illuminate Them:

No technology can replace the visceral experience of arriving in a new place, the moment when you step out of an airport, or off a ship, and subject yourself—body, mind and heart—to a strange land. You’re attuned to everything: the sights, the sounds, the smells, the textures, very soon the tastes.

Leaving the dinghy on the beach we headed straight for the cave, sweating profusely from the heat and humidity and when we stepped into that Hong I did indeed subject myself body, mind and heart to the strange environment before us. The first thing that hit me was how gorgeously cool it was in the dim cavern after the searing heat. Then I noticed the mangrove trees, their dry roots on show without the water we usually see covering them. I was aware of screeching noises and assumed they were birds or monkeys. I kept looking down to paddle my way through the shallow, murky pools of water we had to negotiate to get further in.

 

When I looked up the sight that met me was one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. The noise we heard came from bats – the fruit bats I had been so keen to spot, and there they were in the tall trees in the Hong, hundreds of them. Hanging upside down from the branches, their black wings were either wrapped around their bodies cocoon-like or stretched out as they opened them one at a time, but it was their dark beady eyes that fascinated me. Like portraits hanging on walls in stately homes where the eyes appear to follow you, each bat I looked at seemed to be staring back at me. The noise was deafening as we went further in. Strangely, it built up to reach a crescendo and then gradually subsided until it was almost silent before slowly building up again. I could have stood there for hours looking up into their cute furry faces. Picking our way over the rock strewn floor with its gnarled and tangled tree roots and swampy mud, this Hong was like a Gothic grotto, complete with a colony of bats. It wouldn’t have looked out of place in scenes from Harry Potter or Lord of The Rings. I loved it! More pics below but unfortunately the bats didn’t photograph very well.

Back onboard, we sat at the bow watching the people from the two catamarans that had anchored near us, swimming over to the Hong as the sun set. By then, the tide was in so far that it was impossible to see the arched entrance, but I could still hear the bats clearly.

Friday 17th Feb

As usual we were up early, having adapted to the routine common in most hot countries: to rise early in order to make the most of the cooler hours, and rest during the hottest part. Sleeping in would have been impossible anyway as we were in the middle of a busy longtail route and they start ferrying passengers back and forth early! The constant drone of their engines was beginning to get beyond irritating after an hour or so.  It was a relief, therefore when Paul was able to confirm a place at Krabi Boat Lagoon and we moved off immediately so that we would avoid the lowest tide on the route. It was a bit hairy anyway with mudbanks either side of us and the depth monitor showing mostly 3 metres but dropping to 2.8 at times. It only needs 1.5 for us to go aground and although it has happened before and Paul says it’s nothing to be scared of, it’s an unnerving sensation. Anyway we kept to the ‘path’ (mostly – Paul took a bit of a short cut to speed things up a bit) and then all we had to do was identify the entrance to the river.  Spotting things on the horizon at sea, it’s easy to become confused regarding perspective. We could see no way in even with the help of binoculars until we were fairly near. The landscape is a lot flatter in this area and there was a long row of trees forming part of the mangrove swamp at the edge of the marina entrance and they carried on almost all the way to the pontoons.  We were guided to our berth by Ben, the marina manager and once securely tied up we checked in with him at the office. Ben gave us some useful information and maps on the area.  By then it was 1 30 and too hot to do much else than work or read with the fans on in the cabin.  We went for a drink and dinner at the bar later (where they were more than happy to cater for my vegan, and Paul’s non-spicy requirements) and Paul arranged a hire car for the following day.

Saturday 18th Feb

The early morning chorus of birds here makes you look up (or wake up) and take notice. Their cries are so different to those of the seagulls or wood pigeons back home. One bird’s very loud call sounds exactly like Mr Punch from Punch and Judy. I really thought it was someone on a nearby pontoon practising for that act (in Thai, naturally)! Paul, hearing it just as he was waking up, sleepily asked ‘is that a bird, or a screeching woman’?  The morning after that, Mr Punch’s cry was responded to by an even louder bird call similar to that of a jammed car alarm and this time Paul muttered ‘Crikey, I wouldn’t want to mess with him!’. Try as I might I could not get a glimpse of the birds so I have no idea what they looked like.  Anyway we collected our car on a very hot Saturday morning and drove out on to a village road bordered by lush, jungle-like vegetation. We also passed salt pans, which Paul explained are huge ditches filled with sea water and left to dry so that the salt can be collected and sold.  Further on, I noticed that Krabi Province differs from Phuket in quite a few ways. Tethered cows and bulls are a common sight: they graze in gardens, on roadsides and in fields –  but there are never more than two. The roads are considerably wider and colourful flowers often form part of the verges. Houses and gardens are well-tended, there are fewer shacks and roadside cafes appear smarter. There is an air of affluence here and yet it isn’t as much of a tourist destination as Phuket.

Our first stop was Ao Nong Beach which didn’t impress us much. It was crowded, tacky in places, and felt soulless, or maybe we expected more after observing the smart towns and villages we’d driven through. A little further on, though we found a fantastic café bar on the brilliantly-named TubKeak Beach. The view from the tables was glorious and we sat at one of them for a late lunch of Calamari and fries and a tomato sandwich for me. The guy who served us was a typically friendly Thai gentleman who couldn’t understand why I didn’t want any chicken in my sandwich. It was a lovely location to sit out the hottest part of the afternoon before heading into Krabi Town. Purely by chance we parked outside a gift shop that doubled as a second hand bookshop. It was a real treasure trove full of crime and thriller paperbacks…so Paul went off to look at the river for half an hour or so :).  In the town centre, we had a walk around and caused a bit of entertainment buying bread from a bakery. In quite a few shops and stalls in Thailand there is a system in operation whereby if no one is around or behind the counter, someone will suddenly appear, acknowledge us and then go off to fetch the owner/assistant. Admittedly this time we’d entered the cafe next door instead of the bakery but when we found the correct place, someone had to come and explain to the confused baker that we wanted to buy the big brown loaf we’d pointed at and we didn’t want it sliced. Both the lady baker and her helper thought this was quite amusing and got us to confirm it twice in case it was a joke. All I can think was that it was rather a large loaf for two people and as they don’t really go much for bread in Asia, we had probably stumbled into the bakery that provides for the cafe rather than a shop. Anyway it was very tasty bread.  Next it was on to the market in Krabi Walking Street. I found this much better than Patong’s larger street market, which can get a bit manic. This one reminded me of the kind of stalls and street food found at music festivals. After ambling around for an hour or so we were tired and still had the Tesco shop to do, but luckily we only had a few fresh items and drinks to stock up with so that didn’t take long. We used Google Maps to find our way back to the marina – sometimes it’s quite nice to get lost and come upon interesting places, but we were eager to get back for a rest and to plan where to go on Sunday.

Sunday 19th February

Before succumbing to sleep, we had looked at a few recommended places on the leaflets we’d been given, and on Trip Advisor and all of them praised a place called Tiger Cave Temple, which doesn’t have any real tigers thankfully, just the footprint of a very large one that is said to have lived in the caves at the top of a very high mountain and it came to be thought of as a sacred place. All recommended the stunning views from the summit and the beautiful golden Buddha statues –  and all warned of the strenuous climb to reach them. There are 1,237 steps to the top but they are very high steps apparently and the monkeys there can be vicious according to one lady on Trip Advisor whose review stated that she saw:

‘two monkeys attacking a lady descending a very steep ladder. We had to stop there as I didn’t want to risk my life’. (!)

Advice for visitors included the caution that the challenging climb is only for the very fit, puts a lot of strain on leg muscles and should definitely not be attempted on very hot days. It was a very hot day, and neither of us could be described as fit in the athletic sense. All the same I was quite tempted by the challenge and the promise of those views…until we contemplated the other place we’d looked at. Ben had urged us to visit Krabi Hot Springs, he had even marked it on a map for us. I had nodded politely at the time because I didn’t really know what a hot spring was. I’m not keen on saunas and hot tubs and assumed it was something like that. Paul explained that it would be relaxing, it had a pool – it even had a bar! Well it was getting a bit late in the day to attempt such a steep climb and as I’d never experienced a hot spring – ok I admit it, I was feeling too hot and lazy to tackle all those steps!

We set off for another brilliantly-named place: The Nattha Waree (not to worry?) Hot Spring Resort. Set in tropical gardens interspersed with nine hot spring pools, it’s a hotel resort and spa but welcomes day visitors for 300 Baht (about £7) each. We were given a towel and a bottle of cold water each when we paid, and once in our swimming gear we were free to roam around the lush gardens all day. It was practically deserted. We only saw two families the whole time we were there. The springs are graded by temperature, going up to 49 degrees and we started with the lowest one which was 39 degrees. Paul went in first and said it was really hot but felt wonderful. He immersed himself straight away and waded through the long pool with the water up to his shoulders. I could tell it was hot from the steam and I couldn’t help but wonder why anyone would want to get into such hot water when it was so very hot anyway, but since it wasn’t fair to deride it without trying it, in I went.  It was like a very hot bath, and it did feel nice but I still felt like I needed cooling off not heating up. We walked into most of the pools but baulked at the hottest one – it felt like boiling water just dipping a toe in.  The highlight for me was the fish therapy pool. I had seen them in shopping centres where people were queuing up to plunge their feet in water for fish to nibble at them and it hadn’t held any appeal. Here, no one else was around and I thought I might as well give it a go. At first I pulled my foot back out because it felt so strange but I gradually got used to it and loved it. It was like having my feet gently brushed with soft bristles and was very relaxing. Paul couldn’t get past the ticklish feeling so he left me there while he went to the pool for a swim. Once I could tear myself away I joined him there and spent a pleasant afternoon reading, swimming, and relaxing. The only thing missing was a massage facility. I think we made the right choice for the day though.  I had a look at some online images of the Tiger Cave Temple when we got back, and they weren’t exaggerating the steepness of those steps!

Before returning to Boat Lagoon we stopped at a tiny fishing village very nearer to the marina and took some pictures of this lovely place in the early evening sun.

Kathy

The names of the various ‘kohs’, or islands we stopped at gradually became indistinguishable the more we visited. With unfamiliar language and a familiar, uninhabited landscape it’s easy to become disorientated when trying to recall events and descriptions. It’s made even more muddled by the fact that maps and charts often have different names and varied spelling for them. For example, Koh Jum is also known as Koh Pu. We began to find ourselves debating what such and such a place was called and when we were there. Or maybe that’s merely an ageing trait ;). Anyway, noting them down on paper helped and on the afternoon of Saturday 11th February, I can state with certainty that we were anchored near to the islands of Koh Kai and Koh Lo Lo. It took a little longer to get the anchor down because the chain was twisted. I was concerned that I hadn’t been flaking it correctly but Paul thinks it’s down to something else because it doesn’t always happen and I don’t vary my technique. After we’d had a bit of a motor around in the dinghy, checking out the three small Hongs around us (getting out for a closer look on one of them), the weather changed and a squall hit us.

There was nothing else for it but to sit in the cabin reading and dozing for the rest of the afternoon. When Paul woke up and checked the forecast he decided we needed to move on because the wind was set to increase in force and we would be too exposed in our current position.  It was indeed blowy during the short journey to a more sheltered spot, and actually felt quite chilly – a rare sensation in these parts. The new area was very remote and felt more so because there were no other boats around, the silence was absolute and the gloomy twilight as it began to get dark created a pleasingly eerie atmosphere (well I thought so anyway). Two specks moving around on the beach opposite were identified as clam collectors with the aid of binoculars. We had dinner, fell asleep on the sofa and woke around midnight when Paul said we had to move again. So we weighed anchor in the dark and motored slowly on to what turned out to be a very shallow part because sometime before dawn we went aground.

Sunday 12th Feb

It wasn’t such a big deal going aground, although I had felt alarmed when Paul told me in the early hours. We’d just tilted a bit to one side and when the tide returned all was fine again. The morning was sunny, bright and still very windy. Koh Yang was our next Koh and we spent all of Sunday there with a couple of nearby Catamarans for company. Despite the strong gusts and a few showers of rain, we dinghied over to a secluded beach and got a bit of a shock when we stepped out and found ourselves ankle-deep in mud! I lost a flip flop and thought I’d seen the last of it but Paul gallantly trudged through the sticky mud to seek it out and reclaim it for me. The tiny island didn’t take long to explore. We returned to Sister Midnight on choppy water with a fine drizzle covering our faces and had the Thai version of pot noodle for dinner when we got back. We thought this would be a quick, filling and tasty meal; easy to prepare in rocky conditions, which it was except that Paul’s non-veggie one was so spicy he could hardly taste anything. We stayed all day Monday so that Paul could work and with the weather still threatening rough conditions we didn’t feel inclined to move. The bonus to sitting out such strong winds was that it tested the anchor well. We hardly moved at all even when the knots of wind reached the high 20s.

Tuesday 14th Feb

After another rocky and blustery night we discussed when and where to head for next and settled on slowly making our way towards Krabi Province on the east side of Phang Nga Bay. We filled the fuel tank and weighed and flaked the mud-caked anchor and motored off at midday. It was less windy – instead, we enjoyed a warm breeze and the sun on our faces as we skirted over the shallow, choppy water. The sea was calm by the time we arrived at Koh Chong Lat Tai at 2pm. There was no wind and it was very hot. Once we’d anchored and were fed and watered, we went to explore the very attractive-looking beach opposite, and as we approached it I was excited to see a small grey monkey (another lone one) scampering along on the western side of the sand.  It had disappeared by the time we beached the dinghy and I didn’t see any more unfortunately.  The beach was totally deserted but clearly has visitors from time to time. There was an eco-toilet, a few discarded bottles and cans, and evidence of a beach bonfire or barbecue. We guessed it might be used for campers as an ‘away from it all’ destination. It’s certainly a peaceful and serene location, although it’s also host to sand flies. These insects seem to like biting our feet whenever we come across them so we didn’t linger too long.

Wednesday dawned cloudy and overcast with a cool breeze blowing. A fishing boat drew up alongside us in the morning, calling out the now familiar cry offering fish for sale. We looked out to see a man holding up a bunch of prawns, which Paul bought from him after a little bit of bartering over the price. They were bagged up and put in the fridge for him to look up how to cook them later, and we set out to investigate a nearby open Hong. It was fascinating to enter it and come upon the sight of fully grown trees sprouting out of the water. I finally got to see some bats in there (a few glimpses anyway), and some toads hopping on surreal rock formations among the mangroves.

At 2pm we departed for Koh Ku Du Yai (you can see my point about how confusing it gets with all the names), and reached it by 4 o’clock after circling its circumference to find the most suitable spot. The water is very deep there but we managed to set the anchor in 12 metres. Paul did what needed to be done to prepare the prawns (it looked very messy and fiddly to me), cooked them in garlic with mushrooms and potatoes, and declared them delicious.

Thursday 16th Feb

More boats were anchored around us when we emerged into the cockpit in the morning and a few diving school boats were setting up equipment nearby. Fruit bats are said to be prolific in this area but on our dinghy trip we just saw lots of butterflies. The beach we landed on looked like it might have been a Hong once – the sea stacks around it could have been walls that had fallen away. It was nice to sit on the warm white sand taking in the exquisite scenes around us. The crew of a longtail boat whose passengers we’d spotted on a beach further along were on the other end of the shore cooking their lunch on an open fire (fish by the smell of it) while they waited to take their group back. We took a short walk on a narrow path through the dense jungle foliage behind us and when we returned we took the dinghy for a row around the water by the high rocky edges to look for bats.

It was time to leave for Krabi at 12 30 so after weighing anchor in a stiff breeze, all three sails went up for the first time. Paul has described the passage in terms of wind speed and sail techniques in his post. My role, at the start, was to steer the boat into the wind when the mainsail was being hoisted – I failed to do it properly at first but got there in the end through trial and error ;). I also took over the helm a few times when we had to come off autopilot and Paul had to tend to other things. Conditions got rougher as we went along and with all the sails out the boat was leaning sharply to starboard. Things down below began to move around so I went below to adjust the stowing accordingly. At one point, a cupboard door flew open, releasing an assortment of toolboxes, tins and books flying onto the floor poltergeist-style. There was only a light shower of rain but the waves were high so all the windows and hatches had to be shut in case of splashes.  The rest of the journey to the anchorage at Ao Nang passed without any hitches but as Paul has stated, it felt strange to look out and see a lively mainland coast opposite us after enjoying the tranquillity of such remote and peaceful regions. We had only been away from that type of scene for just over a week. I can’t imagine how we’ll feel after a long Pacific crossing!  It was too far away to dinghy ashore for dinner so I made a salad with ingredients that were still fresh and tasty so the trip proved to be a good test of the fridge’s efficiency too.  As the evening wore on the shoreline reminded me of when we’d sailed past Benidorm one August night a few years ago.  I don’t mean that in a negative way, it looked like people were having fun at the bars lining the shore…albeit with the booming ‘EuroDisco’ soundtrack :). The firedancers on the beach looked amazing from our vantage point. We went to bed that night looking forward to seeing what Krabi had to offer us for the weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wednesday 8th Feb Koh Phanak

The high-pitched whine of mosquitoes disturbed my sleep during the latter part of Tuesday night, and in the end I put the fan on next to the bed to drown out their noise, thus giving them free rein to feast on me. It’s always amazed me that such a tiny insect can create such a loud noise. The result of their attacks on my skin finally led me to get up to apply some calamine lotion to relieve the itchiness. We generally rub deet-based repellent on ourselves in the evening but thought we’d be mosquito free so far from land: apparently not! In the cockpit having coffee later in the morning, we sat looking out at the vista around us. The sea was flat calm and in the distance two men on paddle boards could be seen heading our way. It was quite a surreal sight, especially because from so far away the paddle boards weren’t visible so it looked as though they were floating on the water.  Paul was busy working on a computer programme so we stayed put and had a very relaxing day.

Thursday 9th Feb

When it was time to weigh anchor and move on, I got into position to carry out my role as anchor flaker. This involves getting my head and shoulders in the anchor locker to grab the chain as it comes in and then layer it to prevent it from getting tangled, twisted or stacking up too high. Paul washes the mud off (most of it) so it comes down wet, dirty and smelling slightly of fish – rubber gloves are essential! Before heading out to a different part of the bay we motored around the whole of Phanak Island to look at its stunning geography, which seemed almost lunar in places. The geographical features of The Hongs are fascinating to look at even for people not into geology. The whole of the Phang Nga Bay area is ideal for seeing the effect water and nature have on the coastal landscape – the caves, strata, stalactites and stalagmites, on and around the cliff faces create remarkable images, such rocks looking like candlewax which has dripped and hardened into huge lumpy dribbles. The most obvious feature is that of a Hong itself. They were discovered relatively recently by pilots during World War Two who spotted the hollowed out islands from the air. Without going into intricate detail about how it’s formed, a Hong, to quote from the Pharrell Williams song is basically ‘a room without a roof’ – a very tall, often circular, room with beautiful flora and fauna adorning its walls.

Friday 10th Feb

We’d hoped to beat the day tripper boats by setting out in the dinghy at 8am, but one had already pulled up on the beach as we were getting in. A group of about 12 people could be seen wading through the water to access a cave leading to the Hong. ‘I can do that’ I thought. Beaching the dinghy proved easy – we’ve been experimenting with various ways of launching, lifting and carrying it and are growing more competent each time we do it. The captain of the adventure boat advised us to pull it up as far as possible and warned us that it was very dark in the cave. ‘Ok’, I thought, ‘well we have a torch – it’ll be fine.’  The last few people on the tour were guided round the corner, ducking down to avoid the stalactites above their heads (all had helmets on so it seems health and safety operates in some areas). Making sure the dinghy was secure we began to wade into the water and I felt a stirring of misgiving. The water was a bit murky and came almost to the top of my legs. I had my iPhone in a waterproof bag around my neck because since Paul’s got ruined we use mine for photos but I was worried about stumbling and damaging it. As we rounded the corner the water got shallower and I could see the cave and the tunnel ahead. It looked very dark and narrow and there was no sign of the people who’d gone in before us. I had more misgivings. We walked on and I began to feel things sticking to my legs, which in all probability, were leaves or twigs but my imagination turned them into leeches or jellyfish. I bent to bat them off but didn’t want to hold on to the slimy walls to keep my balance, and by now we were having to bend down because the cave roof was low. I couldn’t see an exit ahead, the entrance was getting further behind us, it was dark and I could feel panic setting in. That’s when I knew I couldn’t go any further, especially if I wanted to get out quickly. Paul was enjoying the whole thing and I didn’t want to spoil the experience for him, so after a short ‘discussion’ about what to do we agreed that I should return and he should carry on. I gave my phone to him and hurried back towards the light. Another tour group was making their way in as I exited, so two boats were now parked on the beach when I got back. The crew smiled at me when I told them I didn’t like it. The ten minutes I spent on the tiny beach waiting for Paul were very pleasant. I sat by the dinghy and listened to the guys chatting to each other while they had their breakfast, thinking about what a wuss I’m becoming as I get older. At least I gave it a try. Apparently I only needed to go another 50 yards to have seen the beautiful Hong Paul described in his post but I have no regrets. Below are a few of the shots Paul took.

Our next jaunt in the dinghy, a couple of hours later was much more to my liking. We went slowly round the north coast of Phanak, stopping to take pictures and to take a closer look at the lush vegetation. Always on the lookout for wildlife, I was delighted to see a huge lizard basking in the sun on a ledge high up on the cliff side, and then a solitary monkey who seemed to take an interest in us from its position up in the trees. The light was perfect for this type of trip and I was captivated by the beauty of it all, especially as the dinghy is so comfortable to sit and gaze in. I took lots of pictures in an attempt to capture the picturesque scenes passing before me.

We reached our next destination later that afternoon. Koh Yai proved to be a bit of a tricky place to anchor in because there were lots of shallow parts and during our first attempt, Paul bent over the guard rail to adjust a rope and his last good pair of glasses fell off his T shirt straight into the water. He’s now attached makeshift lanyards to his remaining pairs. At least no caps have been lost overboard this time.

Saturday 11th Feb

Another early start to check out a Hong that promised to be less claustrophobic than the first one. It wasn’t surprising to see a tour boat unloading its passengers into kayaks as we neared the entrance. Kayaks or canoes are ideal for going into the narrow, low-roofed tunnels and we were asked several times if we wanted to hire one as we passed the tour companies. During the tour, the guide sits at the back with two passengers in front of him and relates information about the formation, wildlife and vegetation etc. of the Hong. We hung back and watched intending to wait until all the kayaks had entered before venturing in. Each guide who passed us delivered a warning that was either about the dinghy being too wide, the state of the tide, or the fact that we must wait until after their tour boats had gone in. It might have been all three of those, but as the last one went in he turned and gave us a beaming smile and beckoned us to follow him. I felt more secure in the dinghy despite the fact that the tunnel was narrow and low. I did wonder if we would fit through the narrower parts but by holding on to the (dry) walls and pushing ourselves along we navigated it through to the exit. We emerged into a beautiful lagoon with high sides, covered with lush green foliage and creepers; it was easy to imagine that a roof once covered the top. The tour boats were moving onto a narrower tunnel that was definitely too small for us so we rowed around the lagoon, took a few pictures and prepared to go back, just as a second lot of kayaks came through. One of the rowers looked very concerned when he saw us and gestured that the tide was rising, then another urged us to get going quickly. There followed a bit of a ‘boat jam’ where we tried to keep out of the way of the kayaks entering while pushing back along the walls as fast as we could. Paul thought they were being a bit over cautious and that they wanted us to hire one of their kayaks. The water hadn’t risen to an alarming level but it was good to back in the open anyway. There were lots of birds around and we had the binoculars so spent a bit of time rowing around scanning the trees and cliff sides for other signs of wildlife. The eagles were magnificent – soaring so gracefully above the highest of the treetops. We startled several herons and I recognised swallows but couldn’t name any of the other birds we saw.  I’m hoping we’ll see bats in some of the sea caves we visit next week. More pics of the Hong experience below.

 

On Monday (6th Feb) we set off early to collect the hire car. An early start was needed in order to carry out the series of tasks on the ‘to do’ list so that we’d be ready to depart the following morning.  The priority, and therefore first task on the agenda, was to get Paul’s stitches out. We were expecting to be in the hospital for some time, especially when we arrived there and saw how busy it was. Yet after presenting himself at reception with the medical card he’d been given the week before, he seemed to get ‘fast-tracked’ through to the treatment room. It looked to us like he’d jumped the queue because lots of people were seated in the waiting area outside the treatment room but his name was called over the tannoy before he even had a chance to join them. Paul had experienced this type of preferential treatment in Afghanistan and wasn’t comfortable with it but we couldn’t be certain that was the case and whatever the reason for such a speedy service, it meant we were out of there within 20 minutes. The next stop was a Post Office for Paul to get his damaged iPhone weighed and posted back to the UK for the insurance claim. Unfortunately, mobile phones – even those with no batteries in – are on the list of prohibited items for posting, along with live animals, drugs, pornographic material and Buddhas! On we went to Boat Lagoon to collect the penultimate item on Paul’s list of essentials to buy for the boat: a Danbuoy, a good thing to have as part of lifesaving equipment. The last item to buy is a life-raft which we’ll get nearer the time we’re due to hit the big wide ocean. Rolly Tasker Sailmakers was next so that Paul could re-buy the rope that ended up in the marina during his accident. With all that done we were free to take in some of the sights we hadn’t managed to fit in before we left for the Christmas holiday.

The first of these was The Big Buddha. This huge white marble statue sits on top of the wonderfully-named Nakkerd Hills near Chalong. We’d seen it from several vantage points during our drives around Phuket, and although a visit to it had been recommended by Giles, I thought seeing it up close wouldn’t be worth such a steep hike up there in the heat.  Anyway we were fairly near to it, and since it appears in Phuket’s Top 10 sights to see, we decided to pay a visit. Luckily we were able to drive all the way on a winding coast road which was very picturesque – although I was a bit perturbed by the sight of elephants chained and tethered in tiny enclosures outside houses or cafes on the roadside. One contained a mum and baby with a sign advertising rides on the baby elephant for children. This sort of ‘attraction’ will be banned completely one day I’m sure – I hope so anyway.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover that visiting the Big Buddha was totally free: no admission fee or parking charges. There was even a free hot vegetarian buffet near the entrance – we weren’t ready to eat at that point otherwise we would have taken advantage of it. It turned out to be well worth the visit despite the intense heat. There was plenty of information about its construction, history and Buddhism itself, along with accounts from famous devotees and how it has influenced people’s thinking. Interesting to discover that to have tattoos of the Buddha’s image is disrespectful and that you should never buy a souvenir or picture that is just of the Buddha’s head – it has to show his whole body.  We had a leisurely walk round, taking pictures and looking at the statues. Renovation and ongoing improvements are taking place and discretely placed donation boxes invite contributions towards the upkeep.  Buying souvenirs from the shop also helps so I did the shop while Paul opted for the donation box ;).

Our second sight to see was Siray Island on the east coast of Phuket.  You’d hardly know it was an island except for the road bridge you cross to get to it. One website describes it as ‘Phuket 20 years ago’ and it definitely has a completely different feel to it than the Phuket we’ve become used to. It’s a lot less touristy and parts of the leafy coastal road reminded me of Mediterranean Europe. We passed luxury villas, resorts, rustic farmhouses and exclusive private dwellings. It seems Siray is the wealthy part of Phuket. Before we saw all that though, the place that caught our attention just as we drove over the bridge, was the monkey viewing platform overlooking the mangrove swamp where they live. Locals and visitors can buy or bring bananas and peanuts to feed them. They come right up to you and take food from your hand – not aggressively, just a bit ‘snatchy’ and they are extremely quick. I wasn’t brave enough to do it but other people were and it was fascinating to stand and watch – both the feeding frenzy on the platform and the antics of the monkeys in the swamp. Good also to watch them in their natural environment, especially after seeing the plight of the elephants earlier in the day.

Back on the coast road, we stopped the car at one high point to get out and photograph the breathtaking view over Phang Nga Bay. Just as we stood wondering about an unfinished road and a plot of land that had been cleared for some purpose, a motorbike drew up and the driver came up to wish us good afternoon. He was a local man and stopped to have a chat with us. The area we were looking at, he told us, was going to have a hotel built on it. Apparently, Chinese business men had commissioned it but the deal fell through due to corruption according to him. He supposed we would be going to see James Bond Island in Phang Nga Bay and was surprised when we said probably not. He in turn surprised me, since he’d lived all his life here, when he complained about how hot it was that day – much too hot he said.

We had one more place to see before a planned late lunch/early dinner at Yanui Beach. Cape Promthep is a popular spot to see the sun set, and has stunning views across the bay. There were steps to climb and it was still baking hot but once again it was worth it when we reached the top. The breeze up there was wonderful and people were making the most of it by standing on the walls and letting the wind catch their scarves and shawls to create flowing, model-like poses. We didn’t do that ;).

At Yanui Beach we chose the restaurant we’d eaten at on our first beach tour in October. The food and service wasn’t as good this time but the setting was as charming as ever, and it was enough to sustain us during the last supermarket shop we’d do for a month or so. We didn’t get back as late as the previous week and thankfully had no mishaps getting it all on to the boat.

We left Yacht Haven as planned, late in the morning of Tuesday 7th February. Paul arranged for a marina dinghy to assist us out of the berth in case the propeller had gathered up growth in the time it’s been sitting there which would have made make it tricky to manoeuvre out. Our journey was to be a very short one anyway and the weather was calm enough for us to take our time in order to check things were performing as they should.  The prop did need scraping and when we anchored at 1pm for lunch, Paul combined his cooling off swim with carrying out that task. There wasn’t enough wind to try out all the new sails but the Yankee sail was up for a while and the sheets which had proved tough to move, were now easier to furl. Setting off after lunch provided an opportunity to use the new deck wash pump to clean the mud off the anchor chain, which is a great aid. There is a slight problem with the trip switch being underrated, which means it cuts out when it overheats but as long as it’s not running for too long it works fine and it beats scrubbing the chain with a broom and a bucket of sea water.

It was a beautiful afternoon –  very hot and sunny, so even the slight breeze was most welcome when it came at around 4 o’clock, just as we chose our first anchorage in Phang Nga Bay.  Koh Phanak loomed in front of us – a stunning sea mountain coloured different shades of green due to all the trees growing out of its rockface. The turquoise water surrounding us was mill pond calm and it was so peaceful: a beautiful location to begin our tour of the area. Anchoring was a doddle and all we had to deal with then was the oppressive heat. A cold shower soon sorted that out and as the sun began to lose its power we sat up above until it set. Lights from the coast of Phuket twinkled in the distance but Phanak Island, towering over us on the other side was totally dark, and seemed to be a lot closer in the twilight. We could hear birds chattering in the trees but apart from that, and the odd longtail fishing boat motoring by, it was completely quiet. That state, especially after the heat of the day made us feel drowsy and after we’d had a dinner of salad in the cockpit we didn’t see much more of the evening. Phanak is described as King of The Hongs in a guide that Jack from the marina gave us before we left, and I was looking forward to seeing if it lived up to that reputation.

 

 

Some time ago now, I read a book which contained a description of a woman who woke up to find that her hair had turned completely white while she slept.  She wasn’t old, she’d experienced a shocking event (I can’t remember what) and that was how her body had reacted to it. It wouldn’t have surprised me if my hair had turned white the morning following Paul’s tousle with the trolley last week. Ok, maybe that’s a bit melodramatic but it was traumatic nevertheless.  Paul’s very fond of saying ‘what could possibly go wrong’ in a kind of nose-thumbing gesture to tempting fate.  As I looked at the mass of shopping and ‘stuff’ that was gathering in the car on our provisioning trip last Monday, I mentioned a few times that it would be a mammoth task getting it all from the car park and on to the boat. Although he didn’t tempt fate with the phrase above, Paul did state that it had ‘all gone very well’ as we parked up and prepared to unload our huge haul. This haul included ropes, sails and tools as well as provisions for a month at sea, because some of the islands we planned to visit didn’t have shops.  We’d driven through the village of Ban Koh En on our way home, thinking it would probably be the last time we saw it.  As we drove over the speed bumps on the road, the bottles in the boot rattled, and I heard thuds and rustles each time the car went over one, despite Paul driving very slowly.  More speed bumps on the slip road leading to the marina car park meant the trays of glass bottles of soda water got a further shaking. Paul opened the boot and straightaway a tray of soda bottles fell to the ground with the sickening sound of smashing glass.  This caused a group of people chatting on the pontoon to groan in sympathy and someone said ‘bummer’. I think they assumed it must have been beer because they all resumed their conversation when I told them it was water. Clearing up as best we could, we loaded the first trolley and got it down the steep slope from the gate to the pontoon. An item from one of the bags fell out as the trolley bumped on the bottom of the slope and rolled into the water. It turned out to be a plastic bottle of water which floated off before I could get to it, but we stopped to secure the other bags to prevent losing anything else! At the boat, we decided Paul should go back to the car and brush up any broken glass and load another trolley while I got on with stowing the shopping. I was absorbed in doing this and beginning to prepare something to eat when I heard Paul shout for me to come back to the car as quickly as possible. It sounded urgent and by the time I got out of the boat he was already running well ahead of me. I ran as fast as I could, keen to know what had happened. I saw him with three other people at the bottom of the sloping pontoon and I could tell from their body language that someone was hurt. I thought that was why he’d called me, to assist in some way but as I got nearer I saw Paul with his face covered in blood, and our friend Jack was urging him to get to a hospital. Then I caught sight of the trolley in the water and put together what must have happened. Still concerned about the shopping, Paul jumped back into the water to carry on pulling out bags before any of us could suggest it might not be a good idea to do that. It was a surreal experience watching him grab the wet bags and lunge them onto the pontoon, with his head dripping blood, and I was uncertain how badly he was injured. He told me how it happened while he was in the water and when I heard he’d been calling for help and nobody heard him I became very upset and subsequently useless in any practical way, especially when I got a closer look at the huge gash on top of his head. Jack’s wife and son helped get the trolley out and took it, laden with soggy carrier bags, to our boat while Jack and Paul went to see if a nurse that Jack knew was around. Paul had told me to go to the car and turn the lights off and when I’d done that, I realised I had no key to get back in so had to wait for Jack’s wife to come and open it.

I can only confirm what Paul related in his post about how great the staff at the hospital were. They were efficient and calm and so friendly and reassuring, despite the language barrier. We were in there for a couple of hours and once I knew Paul was going to be ok I sat in the treatment room watching the all-female staff treat a succession of people while we waited for Paul’s blood pressure to come down. Tomorrow we go back there to get the stitches removed, another blood pressure check, and then we can carry on with our trip. Despite the circumstances, this week of taking it easy has been a good chance to catch up on lighter jobs and to research the routes and the places we’re going to. After the hospital, we’re going to shop for more provisions and this time the trolley (and Paul) will remain on the pontoon. What could possibly go wrong!

Koh Racha and Koh Rang Yai, November 2016                                        

Had we not already experienced the sublime beauty and delights of Rebak Island in October, I’m sure we would have declared Koh Racha the best island paradise we had visited so far, which is heartening in a way because of all the other places we’ll visit which may surpass those we’ve seen before. It’s a great motivation for moving on and is why I’ve come to love this nomadic lifestyle.  Walking on the soft white sand of the beach on Racha after securing the dinghy to the jetty, we noticed that the beachfront was dominated by a huge luxury resort complete with an inviting-looking beach bar. A refreshing drink while looking out to sea was not to be, however. A resort employee stopped us on our way up the boardwalk that led to the bar to check if we were guests of the resort. As we weren’t we would have to wait until 6 to use the bar. Since that was a couple of hours away, we took a walk further inland to explore the village. Predictably tiny, it consisted of a few small shops, holiday bungalows, coffee shops and outdoor eateries. We also passed stagnant lakes, dilapidated shacks and a wooded area where water buffalo were grazing.

We stopped near a narrow stream for a while to watch a monitor lizard (or an alligator!) lumber along in the swampy undergrowth. Not many people were around and I felt the place lacked atmosphere so we headed back to the waterfront to seek out a place to eat. At the other end of the beach we could see what looked like a small bar or café set high in the rocks and thought we could get a drink there if nothing else. We walked up the roped pathway and came upon a delightful restaurant overlooking the sea. It was just beginning to get dark, and the lights (some of them Christmassy), the view across the bay and the warm sea breeze all combined to create a gloriously enchanting setting. Our table was right next to a beach with several rock pools, so as we ate we could watch crabs and other sea creatures going about their business. Definitely one of the most aesthetically pleasing restaurants I’ve ever dined at, and the food wasn’t bad either.

Next morning, Paul was keen for us to get away fairly early in order to avoid some predicted bad weather that afternoon. We were away by 7 30, drinking coffee and enjoying the early morning breeze in the cockpit.  Again, there wasn’t a lot of wind so we used the engine for the four hour journey to Koh Rang Yai. Before settling on a spot to anchor, we spent an hour doing a circumference of the island, both to have a look and to decide on the best place to drop the anchor.  The smaller island next to Rang Yai is called Koh Rang Noi, and we saw some intriguing looking buildings on it for such a tiny island. They looked like a resort complex that had either just been completed or had not long gone out of business – totally deserted and no sign of life anywhere, although we did spot some jet skis on its small beach.

All the action was clearly on Rang Yai which has considerably fewer buildings.  From 1pm, when we anchored near its shore, we watched a succession of day tripper boats disgorging or collecting visitors sporting bright orange life vests. We waited until later in the afternoon to go ashore to avoid the hottest part of the day but it was still very humid which made us wary of biting insects around the freshwater ponds near the pathways. There is a pearl farm in operation which can be seen from the beach, and a rather incongruous swanky shop which doubles as a museum and sells products and jewellery made from the harvested pearls.

After browsing the pretty but pricey items in there for a while, we went for a walk along the beach and noticed that it had quite a lot of debris on it, most of which consisted of small brown, glass bottles- similar to the kind that are used for cough medicine! They littered the sand, and the sea was washing up more all the time – very strange. Before heading back to the boat we stopped for a drink at a beach bar and were entertained by a couple of the staff members dancing around to some ‘clubby’ music. Before long, some guys who’d been sitting drinking beers at tables further along had joined in and it looked as if a party might be about to kick off…except that the bar closed at 5pm and by 5 30 all was quiet again. I couldn’t help thinking how different it was to the beach bars along Barcelona’s coast.  Here, you get the best of both worlds it seems because the tranquility on the beaches from early evening onwards is a definite bonus.

 

The tide had gone out quite a way by the time we reached the dinghy – so much so that it was almost possible to walk all the way to Sister Midnight. We carried the dinghy between us for some of the way which became tricky as the water got deeper and we struggled to maintain our balance, but it was good fun. I had to wait by it and keep it steady while Paul returned to the beach to retrieve our bags.  Koh Rang Yai was our final destination before returning to Yacht Haven Marina the following day to prepare for the trip back to the UK for Christmas, so we spent the evening musing about where we might go when we returned in January. Phang Nga Bay has lots of great things going for it and Giles had enthused about ’The Hongs’ there during our conversations with him.  As we made plans I reflected how I had never even heard of these places a year ago, and how pre and post-Christmas months had habitually been cold, dark and busy with work, commuting and looking forward to warmer, longer days. This life couldn’t be more different. I love it.

 

 

 

By the way, before I start, I predict that Dominic Cummings will pretend he went to Durham castle to test his eyesight out some time in April 2020. Like Dominic, I’m great at predicting things. 🙂
Before leaving the terrific paradise isle of Ko Miang, we enjoyed a leisurely Sunday on the small beach near our mooring. While Paul spent ages snorkelling (wishing he had the necessary equipment to photograph the fascinating marine life visible in the shallow water), I was thrilled to spot some wildlife of my own just a few feet from the shore.  Walking the length of the beach where trees line the edge of the sand, I looked up when movement above made a rustling sound, and found myself looking into the wide, black eyes of a batfox, hanging upside down from a branch.  We had seen pics of these creatures on an information board about the island’s wildlife, but I never expected to see one so close. We stared at each other for ages, and my neck began to ache from looking up and trying to remain still. As I slowly began to move, its eyes followed my every movement until with a swift leap, it jumped higher into the branches, unfolding its rubbery wings for balance as it did so. My attempts to photograph it failed miserably but the picture below is exactly what it looked like. Walking further along, I spotted squirrels, and blue parrots, as well as more of the beautiful batfoxes.

Before heading back to the boat we walked the path to the larger beach and had dinner in the beach cafe there. The stir fry vegetables I had thought I ordered arrived with huge juicy prawns on top so Paul had those added to his meal and I made do with some rice seasoned with chilli and soy sauce and a few untarnished veg, but it was tasty and filling nevertheless.  It was full dark when we were ready to walk back through the wood to the small beach, and the path was unlit, so the 10 minute walk would have to be in total darkness. Luckily we had our phones and made use of the torch apps, otherwise we would have had no idea which way to go. Torchlight, with thick woodland on either side of us created an eerie atmosphere which I found quite romantic in the Gothic sense, and just for the thrill of it we turned the lights off sometimes to experience the feeling of complete darkness and total silence all around us.

Monday 28th November/Tuesday 29th November-Koh Racha

The morning was spent preparing for what would be our first night passage on Sister Midnight. Paul fixed the self steering while I made a pan of soup (easy to heat up in case of rocky sea states). There had been a short but fairly strong squall during the night, which had made the sea a bit choppy and it was a bit bouncy on the mooring – and extremely hot! We left at 12pm, relieved to get underway and feel the refreshing sea breeze. The breeze enabled us to use the sails on their own up for a while, which was wonderfully peaceful but for most of the way we had to use the engine. We took it in turns to do a four hour watch, something we are used to doing on other passages. I enjoy taking the 4am to 8am watch because it takes in the sunrise. There were lots of fishing boats to be aware of, some of which were stationary. The radar helps to judge whether any action is needed to avoid collisions and just before sunrise I had to take over the steering from the autohelm to avoid two fishing boats that were heading straight for us. Paul thought the crew were probably asleep below when I told him about it!

Conditions got quite rough by mid morning, with huge waves bouncing us about a bit, but as Paul pointed out, (and not to sound blase) we have experienced worse – and in considerably colder temperatures :). Still having had no luck catching a fish, I was surprised to see Paul appear in the cockpit around midday holding a rather small, stiff-looking fish. Apparently it must have jumped out of the water and then landed on our bow instead of back in the water, so he finally got to have freshly ‘caught’ fish for dinner that evening.  We reached our destination of Ko Racha early in the afternoon, by which time it had become very hot again. There were lots of crafts in the bay vying for mooring buoys, including dive boats, speed boats, cruisers, and various boats from Koh Racha’s resort hotels. It was difficult to know which ones were for visiting yachts but we waited for one to become free and secured ourselves to it while we had lunch – only to be turfed off it a short time later by a guy on a boat from the diving company it turned out to be reserved for.  We ended up trying two more before finally settling on one that became free after the day visitors had departed. At least all that ‘hooking’ on and off the buoys was good practice using the boating hook – I feel very confident doing it now.

Paul pumped up the dinghy and we rowed ashore to have a look around. There was a long floating jetty handily positioned on the beach where we could tie up to and which saved me the embarrassment of repeating an ungainly exit from the dinghy on to the beach.  Tying up to that, we set off to check out what Koh Racha had to offer (details to follow in next post)

‘We are unable to serve you with petrol at the moment because we are on a 15-minute break’…well that was the gist of what the petrol station attendant informed us anyway!  We’d driven in at about 11 pm to fill up the hire car as required, and after finding that some had closed for the night we were pleased to find one open.  As usual, staff were positioned at the pumps ready to assist and Paul wound the window down to tell the guy the quantity and type of petrol he wanted.  He was interrupted by the statement about their being on a break, and when we looked around we saw that all of the staff were indeed eating, having set up plates and cups on top of their work stations. Thanking him, and smiling our goodbyes, we drove off to find another one. It’s good that things continue to surprise and bemuse us on our travels I think 🙂

Our day out in the car turned out to be a very long one and we packed a lot in to it. After the spectacular storm from the previous evening, Wednesday (18th) was sunny and very hot.  I spent the time while Paul was browsing in toolshops and looking for his mislaid sails in Rolly Tasker, reading in the cool of the air conditioned car. In between visits to shops and chandlers, we decided to take a look at Phuket’s bays, to view them from the eastern coastal road. This proved to be a great idea: we saw some beautiful beaches from high up on the narrow, verdant ‘B’ roads, and hardly passed another car during the entire drive.  Some pics from the trip below.

We had a very entertaining time in a marine shop called ‘Waynes World’, with Wayne(!) who hails from London and has a delightful east end accent. He was keen to sell us his dinghy and he had a very persuasive, loud and amusing selling technique. So much so that I was ready to pay for it there and then! We tried it for size in the water by his shop and I found it was pretty impressive compared to ours, but Paul told him we’d think about it and get back to him. We ended the day with a visit to Yanui beach so Paul could have a swim before the sun went down, and had a meal at a beach bar to fortify ourselves before doing the big supermarket shop.

Other days in the week have been fairly leisurely. We’ve got on with our own particular tasks and chores, had walks to the village, a drink at The Deck Bar each evening while the sun sets, and enjoyed meals at a couple of local restaurants.  Both of us have suffered muscular aches and pains, largely thanks to squeezing into the cramped space of the anchor locker to affix nuts and bolts in extremely awkward places.  I had a mishap while making a chilli (without) carne the other day. I managed to get juice from the pepper on the skin between my upper lip and nose which began to burn, so I splashed my face with cold water, not realising that by doing so it spread the burn instead of diluting it, so my whole face (including my right eye) felt like it was on fire.  Paul googled what to do and the advice was to use dairy products!! We have no dairy on board apart from cheese so I had to sit with a soap-lathered face until it faded away. The chilli was delicious, despite Paul declaring that he was reluctant to eat anything that produced such a drastic reaction. Photos were taken (without my knowledge) but I’ll include one as a warning to others ;).

The highlight of the week, probably of the whole trip so far actually, happened on Saturday evening when returning from The Deck. Movement under one of the marina’s people carriers caught my eye and at first I thought I was looking at ferrets (my daughter had one as a pet years ago and their ‘darting and slithering’ runs looked familiar).  These were fatter though and as we got closer it was clear that they were otters! Assuming they belonged to one of the staff I asked the driver if they were his but he didn’t understand. I was delighted when they came up to me, let me stroke them and began running round my legs in fast circles, giving my ankles an occasional playful lick and nip. An Australian guy, a regular at the bar  who was passing by told us he’s seen them before and they always go for the legs. They moved on to the bank of grass nearby which had just been mowed and rolled around in the cut grass, chasing each other and showing alarmingly sharp teeth. Another member of staff told us that they swim in from the sea sometimes and run up to the forecourt. I could have stood and watched them all night, and needless to say I’m constantly on the lookout for them now. Pity we didn’t get video but here’s a pic of the beautiful creatures (labelled as ‘badgers’ on Paul’s picture album :)).

Koh Miang Saturday 26th November 2016                                                                                                                                                                                                 So delighted were we with this gorgeous island we decided to stay another night. This gave us an opportunity to explore the other side of the island, the one with the larger beach. We walked through a pathway cut straight through the island’s middle to reach it and came upon a modest-sized resort with a cafe, toilets, showers and more camouflage tents. Excited by signs warning us not to touch any wildlife, I was disappointed  that the only creatures we saw were mosquitoes.  The noises we could hear from the thick jungle, however, informed us there were birds and animals in there somewhere.  The larger beach was crowded with day visitors and several boats were on the shore either picking groups of people up or dropping them off. A tradition is in operation whereby some ‘Hi-di-Hi type cheers are shouted out whenever a boat departs. We didn’t stay long on that beach.  Back at ‘our’ beach, we set up a base, took some photos, swam, snorkelled and sat on the sand admiring Sister Midnight sitting pretty on her mooring. Later, on the bow we spent ages watching the fish swimming around us until it got too dark to see them.

Sunday 27th November 2016

During the night there was a mild storm with a fair bit of rain and Paul had to reset the mooring. It actually sounded worse than it was but I was awake for quite a while and read for a while in the cabin. We had a lazy morning watching the boats come and go, and because it was cooler after the storm, we dinghied ashore at lunchtime to check out the beach buffet that had been set up. Nothing appealed to me and Paul wasn’t hungry so we took a walk to the top of the island. Following the signs, we ascended a fairly steep path through the jungle, feeling the humidity as we went further in, but it was fun and I was thrilled to see a huge lizard lumbering through the foliage at one point. The view from the top didn’t disappoint and was made all the more lovely by a cool breeze after our hot, sweaty walk. We took some pictures and rested before beginning the descent which was hard on the legs at the steeper places. Halfway down, I grabbed one of the steadying ropes as I felt myself falling but couldn’t stop an ungainly stumble onto my back in the mud, apparently looking like a tortoise on its back when I tried to get up according to Paul :).

Kathy