Day 30, Thur 19th July. 51-27N, 149-14W. Daily Run: 117 NM. Weather: 10-15 Knots ESE, Sunny and cold, 802 NM to go
The forecast had the winds slowly picking up a little to ten knots or so then dying, however yesterday they quickly picked up to ten knots, and we were soon making great progress, I had a sleep late afternoon and while asleep they climbed up to 15-20 knots, I woke to find the boat heeling a lot and given that we had the full main up and the genoa was fully unfurled, we were way over canvassed.
I tried to get the genoa in but the force of the wind was too great, even using the winch on the furling line. So we went up closer to the wind and I let the sail flap more to take the strain off the forestay/furler. It was then I noticed that the block (pulley) on the genoa track had come loose again and was flying around up and down the sheet. Also because of this the angle that the sheet led onto the winch was all wrong, it was approaching the winch from above, not at right angles, making it very hard to use the winch. In trying to get the sheet a little looser, the wind caught it and several metres flew out. This was quite worrying now as I had a steel block, the size of a fist, acting like an angry one too, flying around just near me and the cockpit. On top of that the sheet was acting like a circus mans whip, with hoops flying back and forward down the side of the coachroof. All in all quite a dangerous situation, and one that certainly ‘could have had your eye out’ 😉 . Kathy pointed out later that it had smashed it’s way through the plastic window on the spray dodger making quite a mess. I managed to catch the block on one fly by and brought it down to the winch, I then had to get it around the winch and onto the safe part of the sheet, where I was able to get Kathy to remove it, I still had to deal with the massive genoa flapping like crazy and the flailing sheet. On top of this I noticed the steel pin that holds the block to the track was on the side deck heading for the scupper (Drain over the side), I really didn’t want to lose this, but couldn’t go near it with the sheet so dangerous. With the sail so far out now, I was able to winch it in and when it was starting to come under control, I could see the pin was just halfway out of the scupper, so I jumped forward and grabbed it just in time. The genoa was then almost fully furled, I ran out of furling line again, this always happens when I use the winch. Then we went head to wind and dropped the main enough to allow one reef in, back up with the main, staysail out and then off we went into the night to enjoy a great sail for the next 12 hours . The whole exercise, that could have turned out quite nasty, really does emphasise the point of always reefing early. The genoa doesn’t come much further aft than the mast, but this is a cutter rig, I think on a Bermudan sloop rig the same genoa would be more like 140%, either way, in 20 knots of wind, the forces it creates are quite something.
During the night the wind dropped a little to around 10-15 knots, and continues to drop slowly, however it was meant to veer and has not changed direction at all, this means we are having to go further north than I first planed, we are now further north than our destination, but that’s ok, as it takes us above the centre of the high pressure, so we should make up for the extra distance by having better winds.
We tried to put the clocks forward an hour today, but we couldn’t find a time zone that fitted our location, eventually I realised that we should be in Anchorage Alaska time zone, as this is about how far west we are. The problem I hadn’t anticipated is that somewhere between Japan and here, Daylight savings time kicked in. They don’t have this in Malaysia or Japan, so we have been on ‘Winter time’ up until now. So to go onto Alaska local time meant putting the clock forward by two hours. hence this blog is being written 2 hours early and our daily run is for a 22 hour day. I’m also struggling to fit lunch in having just finished breakfast 😉 I think we need one more time shift of an hour to get us onto PDT.
Supplies are getting perilously low on board now, Kathy is not going to have any wine to declare to customs on arrival (she does have some emergency Saki) and I’m down to my last two bags of mini kit-hats, before I move onto rationing the Orios.
Now it’s back on deck to shake out the reef and repair the broken sheet block.
Paul Collister
Category: Uncategorized
Day 29, Wed 18th July. 50-37N, 151-55W. Daily Run: 68 NM. Weather: 5-10 Knots SE, Sunny and cold, 911 NM to go
Day 29, Wed 18th July. 50-37N, 151-55W. Daily Run: 68 NM. Weather: 5-10 Knots SE, Sunny and cold, 911 NM to go
The wind was meant to pick up a little in the night but it didn’t. So we spent the last 24 hours basically drifting around, in roughly a north easterly direction. The sea was very calm, but otherwise it was quite grey and cold. The Pacific high has taken a dislike to us and seems to be heading north and will park itself right between us and our destination in a few days time. The picture I didn’t send yesterday shows this. I forgot to attach the picture, but after I retried to send it the server told me it was too large to send over the link. I spent some time reducing it’s size to about 40K, but the server said it was still 100K, I think that might be due to mime encoding? So this morning the sun is shining, the sea is very calm, and while I sat in the cockpit drinking my morning coffee the wind just picked up, strangely from the SE, which isn’t in the forecast at all, so as soon as I finished my coffee, back up went the main, down with the spinnaker pole (Sounds like a revolutionary chant), and out with the genoa. We are close reaching now making 5-6 knots in an ENE direction. I’m going a little north of the high, and will review if we can sail through it over the next couple of days, we have a choice of drifting slowly through, which could take 3-4 days, or going right up north to Alaska, possibly to Kodiak, then following the coast all the way down to Seattle, that’s quite appealing.
The calm weather is allowing me to do a few jobs, when I came to lower the mainsail yesterday, on account of there being no wind, but enough swell to have the main slopping in and out, I found it jammed halfway down. I think I already mentioned my repair to the slide on the mainsail headboard, and how it only affected putting the sail up, well think again Paul. The lack of a slide at the top had caused the next slide to jam in the track. So up the mast I went. Kathy wasn’t happy with this, I wasn’t mad either as with the mainsail still being halfway up I had to climb the mast from the forward/bow side, which isn’t as easy to get onto, and has many obstacles like the spiniker pole, radar reflector and radar itself. Still it was ok until some large swell came along while I was at the top of the sail. All I can say is my grip reflexes work well. With a bit of jiggling at the top of the sail, and Kathy tugging at the bottom, the sail suddenly came free and fell down the mast into the boom bag.
Later I repaired the slide, and this time I filed the metal headboard slot so it was a round edge where the slide attaches and hopefully this will stop it cutting the tape that secures it to the slide. I also replaced my patches on the batten pockets that had worn through, they seem to have stopped any more damage to the mainsail, along with the water pipe insulation tubes I have stuck onto the shrouds. So all in all, the boat is back to fully functional again.
Today is lovely and sunny, we are pushing along in a calm sea making good speed towards Canada, and I have said to Kathy that if we get becalmed, as likely, in the high, then we can make good use of the time to clean the boat, get the decks brilliant white, the stainless shiny and I might do some varnishing, the boat needs some attention. I’m not sure Kathy is fully onboard (no pun intended) with this plan yet.
Two weeks ago we stopped taking forecasts from Japan and moved over to Honolulu, now we have moved to PT Reyes, California, who produce excellent surface pressure charts and forecasts for this area.
The distance to go has moved down a lot, and is now close to 910 NM, this is mostly due to changing our destination to the top of Vancouver Island, Canada.
Paul Collister
Day 28, Tue 17th July. 50-16N, 153-38W. Daily Run: 33 NM. Weather: 0-3 Knots N, becalmed, grey skies. 1188 NM to go
Day 28, Tue 17th July. 50-16N, 153-38W. Daily Run: 33 NM. Weather: 0-3 Knots N, becalmed, grey skies. 1188 NM to go
The Pacific high has moved a little north and split into two separate highs, and although we are near the top of the eastern high, a ridge has formed right where we are and has caused the winds to drop to next to nothing. Once we get past the ridge which will take a day or two, we have decent winds for another couple of days, but by then the high will have moved further north and we will be faced with crossing through the centre of it, which again means no wind. Once past the high, we can expect strong winds from the North/Northwest, maybe 25 knots and big waves, which will send us tearing on down to Vancouver Island and the Queen Charlotte Sound. I have attached a picture with the cross showing our location at the time.
As a result of the above, we spent most of last night drifting around with no specific direction. Fortunately the current is east going so for many hours we drifted towards California. Around 5 AM the wind picked up to 5 knots and we were able to get back on our NE course for a few hours, but it has since dropped back to zilch, hence our dismal daily run of 33 miles.
The sea is very calm, so at least the sails aren’t flogging themselves to death. We can’t motor out of this situation as we don’t have the fuel. We may have 24-48 hours of fuel left, but that won’t get us through all the expected calms so there isn’t much point. Also it’s no big deal just drifting around. I deliberately used most of the fuel in the calms we experienced off Japan, as I wanted to get us away from the typhoon area just as quickly as possible. Here we have little to worry about in the way of storms at this time of year. Also the fuel is better used for heating, it’s quite cold out here.
Kathy is keen to get to our destination now, but I’m thinking I probably won’t sail the N Pacific again, so what’s the rush. She did take advantage of the calm to bake another couple of wonderful loaves, and after a bit of drama over whether or not the proving was working, it’s not like Malaysia where you can just leave the bread out to prove, they turned out to be the best yet. Each morning we have fresh coffee made in our cafetiere and toast using the freshly baked bread, quite civilised really.
Paul Collister
Day 27, Mon 16th July. 49-46N, 155-12W. Daily Run: 110 NM. Weather: 0-6 Knots N, Calm and dry. 1252 NM to go
Day 27, Mon 16th July. 49-46N, 155-12W. Daily Run: 110 NM. Weather: 0-6 Knots N, Calm and dry. 1252 NM to go
We are not becalmed, but if the wind drops anymore we will be, right now the wind has dropped to about 3-6 knots, and we are drifting along making about 4-5 knots, which is not bad considering how still it feels. Right now the sea is very calm, and predicted to get calmer. A calm sea helps a lot as the sails stay filled and power us along nicely. I have taken the reef out of the mainsail, so for the first time on this passage we have the whole sail out. Normally at this point I would fire up the engine to push us along a little, but fuel supplies mean that’s not an option. Later on today I will put 20 litres of my reserve 40 Litres into the main tank, mostly to use as heating fuel.
My idea to fix the wind vane chain with fishing line was modified when I realised that monel wire would do a better job, and I have plenty of that. Monel is a metal, I’m not sure which one, or what compound, but it doesn’t corrode or react with other metals much. I mostly use it for tying off shackle pins so they won’t vibrate loose, particularly on the anchor chain attachments. The repair worked a treat and we have been back on the wind vane for 24 hours and it’s coping very well, despite the lack of wind.
The iPad is acting like it’s possessed now, using it is a race against the invisible finger that keeps pressing buttons before you. Receiving an email requires me to do a screen capture of it immediately, before the phantom finger sends it off somewhere like the deleted folder. We have a backup system for emails, but that is on the android phone that caught fire. A third backup on the old iPad is an option, but that has about 1/3rd of the screen not accepting input, so you have to constantly keep rotating it to get the letters you need to work on the keyboard displayed on the working segment of the screen. It’s too old to have airdrop, so we can’t compose them on the mac and send them over as we did before. For some reason I didn’t put the iridium software on my iPhone, which is a shame. Kathy isn’t very impressed with the rate of failure on the handheld devices. I tried to explain it’s a harsh environment out here, but that didn’t wash.
I had another chat on the Ham Radio last night to Albert, a VE7 guy in Vancouver, he seemed to be copying our signal without problem, I told him we were sailing to Canada, close to Vancouver from Japan. He said “Wow, thats a long way, that must be taking a week to do” If only! The nice thing was he told us it’s really hot 30 deg C in Vancouver. He then tried to tell me about dealing with such heat, and the problems, I didn’t mention I have just had a couple of years in Malaysia, and 30 deg is no big deal.
The block on the Dutchman I use to tension it broke, or at least the clam cleats that are part of it. I have affected a repair that works, but I don’t have spare clam cleats of the right size. Nothing else is broken so all in all the boats in great shape. A few ships passed us by, all cargo ships plying there way between USA/Mexico and China/Hong Kong.
We are now about 3/4 of the way to our destination, we were getting estimates of 7-9 days before the wind dropped, more like 12 days now, but I’m hoping the wind will pick up a little as we head north of the high, and as the high moves south. We might even get some sunshine in a day or two. I have predicted that next weekend will be our last at sea for a while.
Paul Collister
Day 25, Sun 15th July. 49-15N, 157-49W. Daily Run: 137 NM. Weather: 10-20 Knots W, Cold to go
Day 25, Sun 15th July. 49-15N, 157-49W. Daily Run: 137 NM. Weather: 10-20 Knots W, Cold to go
A bit of a blow in the night, but mostly lightish winds, 8-12 knots from astern. I spent a fair bit of the last 24 hours keeping the mainsail happy, with gybing back and forth as the wind wobbled around. Looking at the charts, it’s hopefully straightforward now, we just follow the high pressure system around to the mainland. At the moment, it looks like the ‘high’ is staying quite far north, so we need to go further north to benefit from it and not get stalled near it’s centre. This means we approach Seattle from the North and as such I think we willl make landfall in Canada. Right now I’m looking at Bull Harbour as our first stop, an Indian Reserve that is well sheltered and has a dock and moorings available.
The main event for me was doing a gybe this morning, I hadn’t payed enough attention to the genoa, which wasn’t furled properly from some point in the night. It’s impossible to see the genoa from the cockpit when the main is up, and impossible at night as it’s so dark, but the end result was that as I went to let the genoa out some after the gybe, it wrapped around itself tying a knot in itself around the foresatay. Much as a spinnaker does all the time. This is a terrible situation, as it means the sail is sort of out, and flapping a lot, but not doing any good. eventually you have to take a knife to the sail if you can’t unwrap it. Pulling on the furling line or the sheets tends to make the situation worse, the best way I believe to fix this is to reverse the sequence of events that caused it, so you need to take the sail back through the wind, and hope for a gust to undo the knot. All the time the wind is flapping the sail and tightening the knot. Annoyingly for me, I had to undo the preventer and dutchman I had just set up after the gybe to get the main back safely to midships, get the autohelm running, start the engine and take the boat through a series of turns into the wind to try and coax the sail out. I was about to give up, as everything I was trying seemed not to work, when suddenly the sail started to unravel, then with a whack, it was out and full of wind. So then back to the planed course, sails trimmed, auto helm on, preventer back on, dutchman re-tensioned and away we go. The whole procedure took nearly an hour, however it only felt like 15 minutes to me.
I’m back on the electric autohelm now as the chain I repaired on the Monitor self steering vane packed in last night, We went wildly off course and almost gybed, however the main auto helm was able to take over, despite using loads of power. So thats a job for today, I have a cunning plan, that involves making a chain link out of fishing line.
While on deck this morning I found the other half of the shackle I found yesterday. So that’s nice, when whatever it was holding together flies apart I will have a shackle to put back in it.
Kathy is now 5 games in the lead on scrabble, but I intend to put a stop to her runaway success today!
The boat has been rolling badly for a few days now, so Kathy has postponed the bread making. I’m counting the chocolate bars alongside the days left, I’m not panicking yet, I presume they have chocolate in Canada.
Paul Collister.
Day 25, Sat 14th July. 48-34N, 161-06W. Daily Run: 155 NM. Weather: 15 Knots W, Cold but Sunny. 1494 NM to go
Day 25, Sat 14th July. 48-34N, 161-06W. Daily Run: 155 NM. Weather: 15 Knots W, Cold but Sunny. 1494 NM to go
A great sail over the last 24 hours, the winds picked up to 25 knots and we were flying, of course the waves followed suit and now the wind has dropped back to 15 knots, the waves are still up there. We managed a good daily run of 155 miles, using just the main with one reef and the staysail for most of the run.
The iPad is playing up now, the screen repair I had done in Osaka seems to have failed as the device is generating random screen touches when you hold it. It’s ok if you keep it flat on a surface, but that’s a pain itself a with all the rolling, it keeps changing orientation like that. Sadly a sequence of keystrokes it generated went along the lines of select inbox, delete all, select trash, delete all. Un f** ing believable. I watched it delete all our emails in a split second. To be fair to the shop, they did say that the frame was distorted when I dropped it and they couldn’t guarantee the repair. I’m not buying a new one, not unless Apple are going to take care of my pension plan, seeing as they are taking all my pension funds in keeping their devices going. I gather the iPhone 7 onwards is waterproof, but probably not drop proof. I managed to read the latest emails, and I compose the blog on my MacBook and then airdrop it to the iPad for transmission, so lets hope that works, otherwise blog posts might get thin on the ground.
In other new, my morning inspection of the boat revealed a shackle pin sitting on the side deck. This means there is a shackle that has parted somewhere on the boat, but I can’t find it. I expect it will let me know where it is at some point 🙁
The wind vane has been steering us now for several days, it’s doing a good job, and worked well during the very strong winds last night.
For the radio hams out there, I heard a W2/7 New York old timer in California calling for DX (long distance or rare contacts) last night on 20m, I gave him a shout and had a nice chat, lots of QSB on my signal but he was strong. I think I have problems with my rig here though as he complained of awful audio and I can see the lights on the display dim terribly when I talk, so I think the supply wiring needs attention. Still it was good to know the SSB works at some level. I heard quite a lot of west coast hams in the afternoon.
We are making a steady 7 knots now, and the TTG (Time to go) display is moving between 7 and 9 days for ETA, which is nice.
This morning sw the end of Kathy’s bread, it made wonderful toast, and now we need the sea to calm down so she can bake some more. It’s one of the things we are really looking forward to in the USA and Canada, some real, sugar free, decent heavy brown/wholemeal bread. something that is hard to get in Asia.
The only job I have on today is to put some anti chafe on the starboard shrouds then do a gybe to starboard, I got some onto the port shrouds yesterday and it seems to work well. however my temporary patches seem to be wearing thin now. I remember reading that if you plan to sail your boat back to the UK/Europe from the Caribbean after doing the milk run, as they call it, you should allow about £1000 for wear and tear. This journey is twice that distance, so I presume I should expect to pay a fair bit. So far I think a few hundred pounds in a sail loft should sort out the batten pockets, and a few hundred pounds more for all the sheets and other lines that have chafed. A new iPad could come under wear and tear I suppose?
The recent days have blurred into each other now, today follows the same pattern, with bigger winds expected tonight. However we can see we are on the home strait now, I’m hoping it’s fairly straightforward for the next 1500 miles.
Paul Collister
Day 24, Fri 13th July. 48-12N, 164-50W. Daily Run: 130 NM. Weather: 10 Knots W, Cold & Grey. 1644 NM to go
Day 24, Fri 13th July. 48-12N, 164-50W. Daily Run: 130 NM. Weather: 10 Knots W, Cold & Grey. 1644 NM to go
The wind subsided a bit overnight, now it’s more gentle at around 10 knots, we have changed course to head east as that looks best from a long and short term perspective. Taking the rhumb line (direct route on the chart, but further than the great circle route), will get us better winds I hope.
Other than that, not a lot has happened, all systems trundling along just fine, with the exception of the block/car for the port Genoa sheet, which I found in bits this morning when I had a look around. I think it has rattled itself apart, with one of the pins heading over the side. I have cobbled together a repair which should be good. I’m learning a lot about equipping a boat for long offshore passages, despite the fact I probably won’t ever do one this long again. We We are getting low on diesel now, the heater uses a fair bit, we have 50 litres (ish) in the tank, and 40 on deck. So we are rationing the heating, and not running the engine unless essential. In retrospect I would have liked to have loaded another 60 litres on board in Japan, but it’s too late for that now. I intend to fit a fuel flow rate meter at some point so I can monitor usage better and work out the optimum revs for speed/consumption. We should be fine, just less lounging around in the cabin in t-shirts and shorts 😉
We adjusted the clocks again today, having travelled another 15 degrees East. We are now on Honolulu time, which is 10 hours before GMT/UTC. Our daily run would have been 136 NM before that change, which isn’t too bad.
If you have read Kathy’s blog entry yesterday, you will see she has modestly pointed out her slim victory in scrabble.
Paul Collister
Week Three (plus one day)
Week Three (plus one day)
A series of notable events occurred during the course of this week. One of these is that this is the longest period either of us has been at sea at any one time. Our Atlantic crossing way back in 2006 took us three weeks. We’re on our 23rd day of this passage now, which leads me neatly on to one of the other events: the international dateline. On the afternoon of Sunday 8th July we crossed this ‘time border’ created by man long ago, and it’s confused me ever since. One minute it was 2pm on Sunday, and the next it was 4pm on Saturday 7th July, so we’d effectively sailed into yesterday. Suddenly all the time differences I’d committed to memory were altered; since we’re now in the Western hemisphere we’re 12 hours behind the UK, on the delightfully-named Pago Pago time zone (New Caledonia). As someone keen to get to Seattle as quickly as possible, this was a bit demoralising to say the least. I had to write Sunday 8th July twice in my journal and wait a whole day before I could cross Sunday off the calendar! I’m trying to consign this confusion neatly into the past now and concentrate on the future time changes (there are four more hours to add on before we reach Seattle). It’s a hard life out here on the Pacific 😉
Anyway, this week has also seen us pass the halfway mark and at the time of writing we’re almost two thirds of the way across. After a couple of days of slow progress with little wind and arduous side-to-side rocking, we’re making up for the lost miles by racing along at speeds of 8 – 10 knots; quite exhilarating if a little hard on mobility. The weather is best described as being grey, or grey and white, or light grey and dark grey. The few times I’ve poked my head up out of the cabin hatch, meerkat-style, I’ve been confronted with the image of a high, grey wall of water, white or grey skies and sometimes a sheet of thin drizzly rain. It’s been cold too; cold enough to have the heating on most of the time and to clad up in thermals under a duvet and blankets (well that’s mainly me but I’m always cold outside of the Tropics). This has meant that unlike the Atlantic crossing, I haven’t been up in the cockpit enjoying the sunrises and sunsets, or the phases of the moon, and watching for sea life on a flat calm sea. We did see a shark go gliding past last Friday on the last calm day before the cold and the high waves arrived – a slow-moving black and grey fin slicing the surface just a few feet away from us.
Paul reports daily on the progress of our journey and its details. I spend a good deal of time reading or listening to books on Audible so there really isn’t much for me to report on, especially as the cold is confining me to barracks. People have asked about food and meals so I thought I’d write a bit on that subject – without pictures. I don’t want to turn it into an extended ‘this is what we had for dinner’ social media post 🙂
So far there has been only one evening when it was too bouncy for me to make any dinner. I’d made a couple of attempts to get into the galley but felt too nervous to tackle hot pans after struggling to stay upright. Paul stepped in and managed to cook omelettes while the side-on waves did their utmost to throw things and people onto the floor. We still have a plethora of food on board, although we had our last fresh mixed salad a few days ago. I could have bought more tomatoes in fact because they kept surprisingly well, as did the iceberg and romaine lettuce and peppers. All fresh produce was stored in the fridge which is fairly spacious fortunately. We still have potatoes, carrots, onions, apples and oranges which have all kept well. I was a lot more regimented regarding meals and provisioning for the Atlantic. My instructions then were to allow for 3 or 4 weeks and to consider that the fridge and cooker might break down. We were also recommended to make meal plans for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Experience revealed that we really didn’t need three meals because we weren’t doing enough to justify that amount of food. This time, I merely wrote down a few ideas for easy to prepare evening meals and stocked up with pasta, ready made sauces, rice and noodles – as well as tins of tuna, baked beans, tomatoes, soups, peas, eggs, and ready-made curries to name but a few of the staples. We have a camping stove in case the cooker breaks and if the fridge breaks…well placing things safely outside will probably do the job of keeping things fresh: it’s that cold out there!
The bread in Japan, though marginally better than the loaves in Malaysia, wasn’t up to much taste-wise but it did keep for a long period, and when you just want some toast or a sandwich, it served its purpose. We bought (and still have) lots of chilled longlife naan breads and pitta breads, along with some pizza bases which are great heated up with some pizza topping and mixed herbs for lunch. Those are all fine but don’t cut it when you fancy some toast and Marmite. Once you start thinking of freshly-cooked bread, nothing else will do so I finally made some yesterday using the tried and trusted Jamie Oliver recipe. I embarked on it with one trepidation considering the rocky conditions. Apart from one spillage at the crucial runny stage, I managed to produce dough for two loaves, but as we’re still cautious about using too much gas with two weeks to go, I couldn’t let the oven heat up too much before baking. I’ve made better but they were pure luxury after so long making do with sugary doughy white slices.
We tend to keep to a 7 o’clock evening meal time and as Paul has pointed out, it becomes something to look forward to in the long days on board. I enjoy having the luxury of time to prepare and plan, and since I can’t contribute fully to the sailing tasks (it just doesn’t work for me), I’m happy having the galley as my domain on passage. I tend to let conditions dictate the type of meal we’ll have but even with my mostly vegan diet, I’m pleased with the variety of dishes we’ve had so far. Paul will mainly have what I have, with the odd addition of chicken breast (vacuum-packed), ham, tuna or meat-based sauces. Obviously he’ll be catching fish galore soon so that will be his meals sorted each night ;-). For the first week our dinners consisted of various salads with tuna, tofu, cheese, new potatoes; home made vegetable soup; stir fries and fresh ratatouille. All these we had with with baguettes which were crisped up in the oven and the last of the more wholesome bread.
During the second week I made a roasted vegetable tart using puff pastry, with new potatoes and baked beans; Spanish rice with tortilla wraps (Paul had tuna fillets with those), tofu and vegetable curry with leftover Spanish rice, soy burgers in tomato sauce with fried onions, peas, mushrooms and mashed potatoes; and homemade carrot and coriander soup. One night neither of us felt like eating due to the rough conditions, and another night we had pot noodles, which are tricky to prepare when it’s as if you’re wearing roller skates so, unsurprisingly, some of the contents ended up on the floor. I will often start preparing things in the afternoon, or when there’s a lull in the rocking. Doing things gradually is more manageable – not as daunting as trying to do everything within an hour. One afternoon I made some wholewheat pastry and used it for making vegan cornish-style pasties. These were handy for ‘grab’ snacks instead of sandwiches. It can be hard work getting stuff out of the fridge during extreme side-to-side rolling to create a sandwich. You need more than one pair of hands to stop spread, knives, cheese, jars etc from slipping and rolling around. Pasties, hard boiled eggs and slices of pizza bread are ideal to grab when you’re peckish and it’s rough (along with chocolate, cereal bars, biscuits, and crisps of course).
The boat has lots of storage space for things such as cans, bottles, packets and tins and they are duly stowed all over the place. To ensure we don’t forget what is where, I’ve made an inventory (written in a notebook, the old-fashioned way) which I try to remember to annotate whenever I move anything. Now that we are over halfway there, looking at what is still in the cupboards and lockers, I’m certain we won’t have to do a ‘big shop’ for the first couple of weeks after we arrive. My main concern at the moment is that I got my wine calculations wrong and it looks as if I will have to ration myself until we reach Seattle or Canada.
Apart from that, all is well as we hurtle towards our destination (it would have been nice to have found hot water bottles in Japan, though). I’m reading quite a few books about America at the moment, including the one Paul recently finished by Jonathan Raban which has some interesting passages about the area we’re going to. I’ll include some of them in next week’s blog. One last notable event – I’ve beaten Paul in the last four games of Scrabble :-).
Kathy
Day 23, Thursday 12th July. 47-32N, 167-39W. Daily Run: 146 NM. Weather: 20+ Knots WSW, Cold/Rain/Fog. 1764 NM to go
Day 23, Thursday 12th July. 47-32N, 167-39W. Daily Run: 146 NM. Weather: 20+ Knots WSW, Cold/Rain/Fog. 1764 NM to go
At last we reached some of the gale laden low pressure systems to our north, or rather they came to meet us. Not quite a gale, but pretty hairy conditions. I was very pleased. I saw the NOAA charts had us down for a gale, but that was because the forecaster had put the G of the Gale right on top of us, I think he/she was out by a few hundred miles. However I checked on the more detailed predict wind charts (GRIBS we download) and could see the low fast approaching us, with another right on its heels. The nice thing is this high pressure we are sitting to the north of, the pacific high, causes the lows to hang a left around about here, and head off up to the north pole to feature in extreme fishing programs. So I’m hoping this is the end of them now and we can enjoy more settled, if not slower winds ahead. I expect some of the lows to come back and great us in the last few days of the passage.
The reality of the weather is that I had to ‘batten down the hatches’ again, I did a check of everything on deck to make sure it would stay there, then changed the sail setup. I had just finished patching the mainsail, and decided I would put it back up, just keep it off the shrouds as much as possible. Later on it can come down and we will run with the headsails only. The genoa was furled, and out came the staysail, the staysail is quite a small sail, and very tough, it works very well in strong winds, one to drive the boat forward, but as importantly, to balance the mainsail around the centre of the boat. While I was doing all of this the wind was steadily building from the annoying 7 knots of the last few days to a goo 10-15 knots. In no time at all it was dark and the seas were building and we were belting along at 7-8 knots. by 2AM this morning the boat was touching 10 knots at times in 20-25 knots of wind on the beam. If you look at our course, it’s all over the show again, partly because the wind shifted and I didn’t notice from my bunk, but also because the wind vane steering couldn’t cope again. Back on deck, I realised just how big the waves were, they kept pushing us off course, and although the steering was trying to correct it, it was too slow and another wave would arrive to keep us off course. My first attempt at course correction didn’t last more than 10 minutes before we were off course, so I thought about reducing the mainsail, but ended up taking in the staysail, this was counterintuitive, but did the job, the boat became more balanced and we kept our speed up at around 7-9 knots. We have massive waves hitting us now, but nothing the boat doesn’t take in its stride. We have found a few last places were our stowage plans failed, a plate in the Q-berth went flying, some previously solid and well retaining shelves said goodbye to the bits and pieces stowed there. I’m still learning which sail configurations work best for the prevailing conditions, something that isn’t mentioned much in theory books is just how important the waves are, they are by far the biggest factor in determining our speed and comfort level. I have noticed here that it’s rare to get a steady stream of waves for longer than a few hours, then waves join the mix from a different direction. All in all though the boat is very happy in these conditions. And so it should be, it could easily be expected to handle 50 knots of wind and much bigger seas as some of the baba owners have shown. I always think of one such sailor, Jeff, on a baba 40, the same model boat as ours, who sailed solo, non stop around the world, encountering much worse conditions than us, a few years ago. He was a reference source for me as to what will fail if stressed enough.
Right now the wind has dropped a little as predicted, but should climb again tonight, then hopefully we have a few days of more peaceful sailing away from those nasty lows.
Kathy says it’s all over for me on the scrabble game, but much like the England team must have felt yesterday, I’m thinking there’s everything to play for.
Kathy managed to bake a couple of delicious loaves yesterday before the weather took hold. The first decent bread we have had in many weeks.
Paul Collister
Day 22, Wednesday 11th July. 47-10N, 171-01W. Daily Run: 104 NM. Weather: 8 Knots WSW, Cold/Rain/Fog. 1901 NM to go
Day 22, Wednesday 11th July. 47-10N, 171-01W. Daily Run: 104 NM. Weather: 8 Knots WSW, Cold/Rain/Fog. 1901 NM to go
Yesterday continued the theme from Monday, rain, fog, light winds and generally miserable, like a typical summers day in Manchester 😉 A dismal run of just 104 NM, with speeds often around 3 knots. The wind picked up for a while, and we had a few good hours of progress, also the sun came out just long enough to get some much needed charge into the batteries. The charts from NOAA (The National Oceanographic and Aeronautical Administration, or something like that) showed a gale approaching with 35 knot winds, It looked on their charts like it was going to run us over, but so far there has been no sign of wind, I changed course a little to the south in the hope of missing it, but in the end have just ended up closer to the high pressure. If you are wondering why our course is wandering all over the show, it’s for 2 reasons, firstly at night we tend to let the wind vane steering follow the wind, rather than try to adjust the sails and course, unless its a major wind shift. Secondly, often the wind is coming from close to astern of us, and we will steer to keep it on one side for a few hours, then change it to the other side by gybing later. To gybe is a big deal when the headsail is held out by the spinnaker pole, as it often is in winds from astern. The sail has to go in first, then the pole has to come down, then go up again on the other side, then the sails can be moved across. Invariably after this has been done, the wind shifts meaning we need to go back to the old course. In the bigger picture, going off course won’t make that much of a difference to when we arrive, we still expect it to be during the last week in July.
Other news is light on the ground here, Kathy won her third game of scrabble in a row, she’s hoping to set a new record for 4 in a row, most unlikely. You don’t see them playing scrabble on the Volvo ocean race now, do you!
The main news is that I was checking the boat yesterday before sunset and I noticed a mark on the mainsail, closer inspection revealed damage to the sail. It had been chafing on the lower rear shrouds when fully out. This is bad news as the sail is pretty new and I had every intention of preventing this, but failed to put chafe protection on either the sail or shrouds. Originally I had planned to swap the mainsail for the old one, but that has a few problems, one being that the battens don’t fit anymore as they had to be trimmed for the new mainsail. Also it’s not really possible to get to the shrouds to put some anti-chafe material on them now, even if I had enough. So I dropped the sail to check further, and it’s mainly the batten pockets, which protrude slightly that have taken the wear, with the one I looked at having worn a hole the size of a penny in it. This could easily tear more in a strong blow, so I will have to repair it before the sail goes back up, but I also need to inspect the other 15 places (4 battens, 2 shrouds, 2 sides) where it might be chafing on the batten pockets. It might be better to get the old mainsail out and put that up. I’m not sure how that will look without battens, it might be fine as it’s mainly for downhill runs, but in a blow it might be useful if we can go to wind. Lots of things to think about before I do anything. Hopefully after I see todays forecasts I will be able to decide and get the job done before dusk. For now we are making about 4 knots towards the east in 7 knots of wind from behind. The only problem is when the waves kick us and we fall back the sail collapses, then comes back with a huge whack that shakes the boat. I have reduced the headsail area to a level where the shock seems reasonable. This does take its toll on the sail as well as the rigging, but hopefully not too much.
The waves are subsiding now, but for the last few days they have been coming from very different directions, we sometimes get waves arriving from the bow, beam and stern at near the same time.
The little NMEA/SignalK router I use to send data from the sensors (Wind,GPS and AIS) to the iDevices and MacBook keeps rebooting, sometimes every 30 seconds, I can’t see any reason why it should just have decided to do this now, but that’s a job for today to try and find the cause.
Finally I had a go at repairing the clocks, I figured it couldn’t be much, but the first one I looked at is now in the bin, valuable knowledge learnt about cheap clock mechanism’s and how not to take them apart. I paid nearly £1 for this tasteful plastic timepiece in a shop in Langkawi. Next, I was disappointed that the brass nautical ‘Quartz Crystal – Fanchet of Paris’ chronometer, which probably cost £50 or more, also had a very similar cheap plastic mechanism inside, just fancy gold looking hands. However with my new qualification as Master Watchmaker, I was able to find the bad connection, a little bit of copper that just needed a little bend, and away it ticked. So we now can see the time again without having to reach for a mobile phone.
Do tune in tomorrow to see if Kathy managed to get 4 wins in a row on Scrabble, hopefully by then we will have found out if England are in the world cup final or not.
Paul Collister