Author: paulcollister

Sunday 10th May 2020:
The days total achievements amounted to fitting a few mosquito screens around the boat and shouting at twitter posts. However I was pondering my existence on a boat during lockdown while doing the dishes, so I might as well bore you with my meanderings now as a way to fill some space.
I had just watched a video blog (Vlog) from “SV follow the boat” about how well cruisers are already prepared for this type of pandemic life, in as much as we generally have several weeks of food and supplies on board, we are by the very nature of sailing self sufficient and while running the tap to rinse the dishes, always a luxury, I was further reminded of a piece Vanessa and Robert wrote about their trip around Vancouver Island, partly with us last year, and how living aboard made them really appreciate how few material things you need in life. So I thought I might write a little about how our fresh water works on the boat.
Of all the things needed for survival, water is right up there, you can go a long time without food, but without water you’re doomed quite quickly. We have a 10 litre bottle of water under the sink we keep for emergencies, but rely on our two steel water tanks to supply all our needs, drinking/cooking/washing. Each tank holds about 200 litres (50 gallons), to put that in perspective, an average bath uses about 120 litres, so we carry enough for just over 3 baths, and if we had room I would definitely fit a bath. It’s not a massive amount of water. When we left Japan for Canada, it took us 5 weeks, but we provisioned for 7-8 weeks worst case, we had a water maker, but didn’t want to be dependant on that, because as it has just shown us, it can fail at any point and isnt easy to repair, especially out at sea. So we would have to exist on 400 litres over 8 weeks , or 7 litres a day (just under 2 gallons). We actually made landfall in Canada after 5 weeks with one tank empty and the other quite full, so that worked out well. But to achieve this you do have to train yourself not to do certain things. Leaving a tap running is a big no no. Filling the sink with water is also out. And showers are rationed and short.
The galley has three taps (Faucets should you be tuning in from America), the main hot/cold mixer tap supplied from a pressure activated pump, just like you have at home. This is often turned off on passage as it is very wasteful.

The other two pumps are activated by pedals you pump with your feet below the sink. One provides cold water from the tank, the other sea water from outside. Most of the dishwashing is done with the sea water, then a quick rinse of the dishes with the fresh pump, I try to get the water to cascade over many dishes at once, rather than treating each dish to its own rinse. I love the foot pumps as you can dispense tiny amounts of water, if I just want to dampen a cloth I can get a teaspoon sized amount out easy, with the main pressure pump it’s much harder to control.
Here in the marina we have hot water, we normally get hot water at sea when the engine has been running for half an hour or so, the engine’s radiator water (Heat exchanger to be nautical) is used to heat up fresh water, but being connected to shore power in the marina, there’s an electric heater that kicks in. So I had a full sink of hot water to soak the dishes in. This is a rare treat for me, and I felt a little guilty about it, even though I’m in a marina with water literally on tap. I still rinse with the sea water, as it has become habit now.

Monday:
Not much better than Sunday, lots of polishing around the boat and a trip to the Immigration office to be told I had missed my middle name off one of the application forms and I would have to go back online, start a new application and return in a day or two. I picked up some fresh bread, avocados and coriander on the way back. I think I have too many avocados now.

Tuesday:
Today I got stuck into polishing the woodwork in the cabin. I bought some spray polish, it’s called Pledge in the UK, it’s like instant gloss for those of us too lazy to do it the old fashioned way. It worked great, but I did wonder how much harm the chemicals involved might be doing to my lungs.
Mike from SV Elsie Jones came over for help with his electronics. He sat in the cockpit, 2 metres away (ish) and we chatted through face masks about boaty things. He’s quite ancient and had some good yarns to tell. He’s from Manchester originally, the boat is named after his mother who is welsh, but he lives in Thailand and bought the boat here in La Paz and planned to sail there. Those plans are scuppered for this year so he booked a flight home, La-Paz to Mexico City to Dallas to Japan to Thailand, quite expensive, then found out he’s not allowed to transit at Dallas. I doubt he will get a refund. I advised him to find out why he can’t transit, I’m sure he should be allowed, he’s travelling on his Irish passport, his Irish links are quite tenuous, and he wondered if that was why. You can’t transit through the states now if you are coming from the UK, Ireland or a schengen country.

Wednesday:
I decide to get up at 06:30, after a very restless night. For some reason around 02:00 I woke with my heat rash stinging, I thought I would try to learn my pronoun rules with the verb Ser and Estar. Once you have this cracked, a lot of Spanish gets easier. Things like: “Yo soy, tú eres, él es, elle es”, for “I am , you are (informal), he/she is”, and all the plurals, they are , yous are etc. I fell asleep reciting these and of course went straight into a nightmare that lasted until 6:30 of me not being able to get them right. Prior to that I was working for both Donald Trump and Boris Johnson in some hellish office were everyone seemed to be mad. I expect their offices probably are quite mad.
So as the sun rose, and the kettle boiled I unpacked the printer from its several layers of plastic bin bags to see if it would print off just one last Visa application before it died, one with my middle name this time. All went well and I headed off to the immigration office after a very pleasant breakfast of coffee, toast and Danish pastry in the cockpit.
Passing the Arjona chandlery on the way, I popped in to see if the fuel switch for my outboard engine had arrived from Mexico City, looking at the invoice it was 8 weeks ago when I ordered it. They had promised to phone/email me when it came in but never had. They seemed very pleased to hand it over to me when I arrived, and I’m looking forward to fitting that shortly. The old one leaked sometimes and filled the cockpit with the smell of petrol.
I arrived at immigration, puffed out and very sweaty, it seems to be getting hotter earlier every day, I know that’s how the earth’s orbit works, but it seems that 9:30am is the new 12:00 now. Must be a virus thing. I tried hard to get my forehead temperature down by waving my head in the breeze, waving my sombrero around my head and taking deep slow breaths. The reason being they take your temperature before you can enter the immigration office and on Monday I was borderline, I tried to explain that I’m an old man who has just spent the last 20 minutes cycling up a hill in the heat, but it didn’t matter, they let me in anyway and seemed happy to see me, a quick check of my new documents and I was told everything was fine and my visa would be ready before 1 pm. I also didn’t need to pay for it, thereby saving me a trip to the bank.
I was surprised how well things were going, and I did wonder if it was because of my trousers! I had read the night before on facebook how someone else got great service in that office the day before, and they pointed out they had dressed up quite formal for their visit. I always dressed up in SE Asia, as immigration / Customs and Quarantine people consider themselves to be very important people and to go in in shorts and t-shirt is a sign of disrespect, but in Mexico everybody seems to wear scruffy jeans, even when in the immigration office. Anyway, I was in long trousers, button up shirt, and I even combed my hair, despite it not being the weekend. Who knows? I popped back at 12:30 and my visa was ready and they were all smiley faces, even getting me to jump the queue, much to the surprise of the Canadians who were only on their 4th visit. I chatted with them, they were on a boat out in the anchorage, I told them I was on Sister Midnight, they replied, “oh we heard you on the net, and we saw you in Cabo, You’re the guy who lost his passport aren’t you”. Fame at last 🙁

Back on the boat and Carlos the diver had been and left after fixing up the gouges in the coachroof that the dinghy had made. They are coming back tomorrow to sand/polish and match up the colour. I’m not expecting it to be perfect, but it will be a lot better than it is now and one day I will get someone to do the whole of the boat from bow to stern so it looks like new.
Next up I dragged two of the sofa cushions out onto the dock and with some of the soap given to us as a gift in Osaka, I started scrubbing them. I have a supply of fresh water and endless sunshine to dry them, so I thought I should give it a go. I have no idea when Kathy and I will be able to agree on new fabric for the cushions, so if I can just get them looking a bit better it’s got to be worth a try. anyway I’m running out of things to polish.

Thursday:
Woke up with a headache, it must be hell for hypochondriacs these days. I decide to ponder my fate in bed for a while and decide it’s reading too much twitter that is probably giving me a headache. I get up, do a bit more cleaning. Carlos returns and admits he can’t match the colour of the gelcoat and has brought reinforcements, a gentleman whose name I miss, but he has a tub of what looks like orange paint with him, and he sets to work. I stay below as I make it a habit never to watch skilled craftsmen doing an important job, I feel the extra pressure can only make things worse.
Later that night just after the sun sets I watch the International Space Station make an almost overhead pass.

Friday:
Shopping day today, I have noticed that either I’m getting weaker or the bike needs oiling. I decide I will go to the supermarket every other day now that I’m in the marina, and that I will cycle beyond the police checkpoint and back to get some extra exercise.
I can imagine some people might get freaked out by the checkpoints, Police, Army and Navy guys hang around stopping every car, each of them holding on to their AK47 automatic weapons. It doesn’t bother me, perhaps because when in Afghanistan, it would often seem like I was the only one without a machine gun or mortar launcher hanging off my waist. I wave and they always wave back. I smile at them, and hope they smile back, but with everyone wearing a mask, it’s hard to tell. I miss the smiles you normally get from everyone as you cycle around here.

I spot what may possibly be the last bottle of alcohol free Heineken in La Paz. It’s sitting on the floor with the other misfits, like the bad boys sent to detention or the group W bench. This bottle left its five friends in the 6 pack carton at some point and has joined the other oddballs on the floor out of the way. Twice I have taken it to the checkout, both times to be told it can’t be sold as there is no entry in the tills lookup table to give it a price. It’s future is uncertain. I will visit it on subsequent trips to see how it fares.
Later, encouraged by the cushions I have washed so far I work on some more before retiring to the cockpit for Guacamole as the sun sets and I spot another pass of the International Space Station. I track it on my phone and it starts to disappear just after it passes over Houston.

Saturday:
I do another shop, I have decided to start building up a decent stock of supplies should I have to make a long offshore passage. I may go north in the sea of Cortez to avoid the hurricanes in a few weeks time, but I also am working on a Plan B should that not be possible. My plan is to head out to Hawaii and reprovision there before heading north to Canada or even Alaska depending on where the Pacific High is. this will give me a few months at sea and more time to work on my fishing skills, starting with Tuna down here and ending up with Salmon towards the end of the trip.

The sea/organic life in the marina is quite something here, the water must be very nutrient rich, the shrimp noise from under the boat is really loud, and as you can see above, plant life is quick to grow on anything not moving fast here.

I stow away some more pot noodles, salt, flour, instant yeast and tinned goods, and wash the remaining cushions. There’s one stubborn one not dry yet, but I’m amazed at how well they cleaned up, amazed and embarrassed that I took so long to sort this out.

Paul Collister

Sunday 3rd May 2020
Another pretty lazy day, It took a while to get the blog up and editing the underwater video footage was a pain, I deleted the best footage by mistake. I have heard that some of the popular sailing video bloggers make a fortune, all I can assume is that they’re a lot better at video editing than me. Still they must spend a lot of time doing the drone footage, finding the right music, and just simple stuff like setting up cameras, time lapse filming, charging devices etc. Then after the editing, there’s the uploading to youtube, dealing with all the subscribers, patreon etc. How do they find time to sail, or in my case polish the stainless steel and varnish the brightwork. Well hats off to them, but it’s not for me. You will just have to put up with old fashioned blogs with the odd bit of rubbish video.
I hear that the server I host this blog on struggles to feed video without a lot of buffering, I can believe that, I think I share one server with about 20 other users. We all have virtual servers, on one physical computer, and often the servers are hacked and used to send out stacks of junk mail. When this happens all of us on that server experience problems with our emails getting rejected by various networks with spam blocking filters.
I replaced the video of the overgrown hull which I was hosting on the server with a youtube embedded version. This seems faster, but I was bombarded with copyright infringement notices for the Jaws imitation music. YouTube said I didn’t need to do anything, but I should choose from two options, delete the music, or replace it. I was reminded of the good old early computer days, when your floppy disk was broken, and you tried to save a file you got the options of Abort/Retry/Ignore. As I remember they all did nothing other than make your disk drive grunt for a few seconds, then the message was redisplayed.
I found a way out of the dilemma and the video seems to play better now, perhaps it will be taken down, I don’t know. I did choose that music version because it was from a copyright free site. Oh well, I’m not going to waste time worrying when there’s still dull stainless steel shouting out my name.

Monday.
In to town early, shopping, and back on the boat by 11AM. I did plan to go to Immigration, but decided to leave it until Wednesday. I’m going to move into the Marina on Tuesday, Water supplies are low, the hull needs cleaning, and if I need to make multiple trips to immigration it will be easier. I’m not sure how long I will be there, the marina does seem to be a lot quieter now, so my virus fears aren’t so bad. I will miss the dolphins, the sunsets, and the cooling winds I have at anchor. But I will have electricity, hot water, all the toast I can toast, and I can give the boat a good wash down and get some of the salt off.
The plan had been to do some work today programming, but it turned out that I need to wait for some specs to come through, so instead I continued to polish the stainless, today I did half of the cockpit area, It’s starting to look great. I cleaned and polished the sheet winches, something I have never done before.

They came up looking stunning. I was really shocked, they shine so bright, it’s like being on somebody else’s boat, the kind of boat that is properly maintained, like an expensive boat that might race at Cowes or something, certainly not the type of boat I might own. I can imagine this boat might actually look smart one day. I’m definitely going to get the fiberglass gelcoat spruced up at some point and I will buy a proper low speed buffing/polishing tool soon.
Just as the sun was setting, a dolphin, or a gang of them, and I think gang is the correct collective noun in this case, leapt out of the water, quite close to me, really quite high, completely out of the water by a good foot or two, before landing on the surface with a big splat, not a graceful dive, but I presume a splat designed to create a shock wave to kill the fish there. And not just one show of acrobatics, but this happened 5 times in rapid succession, which is about how many dolphins were there, so perhaps they all had a go, or one was very hyper. Then there was a bit of a frenzy with tails sticking out everywhere. For reference five leaps & dives takes exactly the same time as it takes to grab an iPhone, put in the passcode, select the camera icon, point and just miss all the action!
While messing around on the youtube platform I noticed that a video I posted many years ago (2006) has now had over one million views, now I know a million isn’t what it used to be, but I’m quite chuffed to have reached a milestone of a million, a million anythings would have impressed me. Before I get carried away, I think the video is just proof that it’s all about the marketing. It’s called ‘Waves in the Atlantic’, a name I chose because when I used to take my kids to the Rhyl Sun Centre swimming pool complex in North wales, every hour or so, the PA would announce, “Waves in the main pool” and the wave machine would start up as scores of kids and parents would head to the pool to be thrown around (so basically a private joke only I would get). Anyway, it seems a lot of people google “Waves in the Atlantic” and I think I might have had one of the first videos with that title, I’m presuming that as people clicked on it, the number of views went up. I doubt they watched it as it’s quite boring, and not the cruise ship rolling horror story they were expecting, but as the clicks went up, so did the ranking in the search results, and like magic, 1 million people have clicked on it, well subtract my 50 or so clicks.
I still like it because it’s one of the few times I felt I captured the rolly experience of a big ocean. It’s here if you want to check it out.

Tuesday:
Up early, headache, sneezing, a bit dizzy, will I last the day? I expect so. I get started on preparations to bring the boat into the marina. It’s a little tricky as the engine hasn’t run for a few weeks and the anchor and chain has been getting quite groggy for a while. The growth on the chain looks bad. First I do the engine checks, the oil is a little low, but that’s ok, the water coolant is also a little low, but that’s easy to top up. She starts first time, which is normal, especially in these high temperatures. I was rather worried that the thru hull for the engine water intake, that’s the hole in the bottom of the boat that water is sucked through to cool the engine, may be blocked with all the weed on the boat, but it’s fine. I take the covers off the engine and shine a torch around to make sure there are no oil/fuel or water leaks. All is good, but there’s far too many toast and breadcrumbs on the top of the engine for my liking. I don’t know who’s putting them there, but it has to stop.

I plan to head into the marina at 14:00 around slack water, we are near spring tides now and the currents can run fast. My problem is the bow thruster is fouled up, the prop is very barnacled and the hull is well rough. So I won’t have as much maneuverability as I would like, so avoiding the fast tides seems smart to me. Having got the boat ready, removed the anchor snubber and put out some fenders and lines and I’m ready, but 2 hours early. So time to finish off the stainless polishing in the cockpit. with 30 minutes to go I put away my polishing kit, the cockpit looks nice now, start the engine and prepare to weigh anchor (22kg last time I looked 🙂 ). The first job is to remove the growth on the chain, it’s pretty bad and I don’t want all of that going into the chain locker and stinking the place out. I’m assuming there are already a few dead crabs in there from when I last hauled the thing up. I get a wire brush and as the chain comes up, foot by foot I scrape the sea life off the chain, and hose it down. The problem is after two foot the hose stops pumping water.

Back down to the cabin, up with the floorboards and lets have a look. It seems the sea water isn’t getting to the pump. I check the filters, expecting them to be blocked but they’re not. Now I’m thinking Apollo 13 again, I reroute the supply of water so instead of coming from outside I’m using fresh water from the remaining tank. this better work, otherwise we will run out of precious water before we reach the docking stage. It doesn’t work, I tried to call Houston, but there was no reply, I expect their working away on the replica of Sister Midnight they must have, trying to come up with a fix. Time is running out, the tide will turn soon and I will miss the re-entry window to the marina and have to spend another night out here.
I have a plan, if I can route the water from the Lunar module, sorry, I mean the water maker thru hull to the deck wash pump, then it might just work. Unfortunately, the water maker thru hull is 1″ and I need to connect it to a 1/2″ pump fitting and I only have 3/4″ hose.
Still nothing back from ground control, so I lash together various fittings until I have a rudimentary system.

It seems to work, but I’m quite expecting the pipe fitting to blow off under pressure soon. Carbon monoxide levels start to drop 😉
Back on deck and the tide is about to turn. I haul up the chain, two foot at a time, then scrub and hose it before letting it down into the locker. It takes a few minutes to do every two foot, and I’m trying not to work out how many feet are in 40 metres, which is how much chain is out. Every 10 metres I have to rush down below, crawl across the bed and flake the chain in the locker. I didn’t think this bit out very well, as I’m covered in seaweed/sea-life from the scrubbing and deck-wash hose, plus I didn’t close the window above the bed, so I think I may need to change the bedding soon.
Thankfully after 15 metres, the chain seems to be clear of weed, not sure why, perhaps this mostly lies in the sand and the scraping action isn’t great for little creatures to make their home.
The anchor pops up and looks disgusting, but we are clear and drifting with the wind now. the tide has almost stopped, so into gear, slow ahead and off to the marina, a good 5 minute journey.

I rev up the engine and the whole boat shudders, the engine groans, so I back it off a bit. I’m assuming the badly fouled prop (playing at the Dublin Castle) is the cause, props need to be carefully balanced, just like car wheels, and this is very unbalanced. I tried the bow thruster to see if I could shake some growth off it, and to see if it had any effect, however it just beeped at me as if two say ‘you having a larf’.
I find my berth, the marina have two guys waiting for me, I’m turning to starboard for a port tie, there’s a boat to starboard of my berth and I think it’s going well, I’m going quite fast as I’m not sure how well the turning will work when the dockhand starts frantically gesturing for me to turn more to starboard, not sure why, but I do, and almost hit the yacht to starboard. I think he was wrong, I turn back to port, pull in and a quick full astern stops me and kicks the stern in nicely. The same dockhand tied my bow line to the mid pontoon cleat then tried to get my yankee sheets off as a bow line. Perhaps he’s new here.

I jumped ashore, thanked them, adjusted the lines and relaxed. Great to be in safely. Then I realised I had gone back in time to a pre virus era, I had no mask on, was standing right next to the dockhands, passing them ropes. No hand sanitizer in sight. I’m almost certainly going to be on a respirator by the time you read this.
It’s been a good few weeks since I was in a dock, so lots of boat washing to do, I launched the dinghy to get the deck clear, it was covered in seaweed. I spent an hour giving the boat a good clean, connected the shore power and sat down for a well deserved Cerveza Sin Alcohol.
No sunsets or dolphins, but I enjoyed my dinner in the cockpit until I noticed a couple arrive on a dinghy and tie up opposite me, they joined another couple on the pontoon opposite and proceeded to spend the night being jolly. I was going to pop over and say hello, ask how often they met up, and was the shrieky women, with the ear piercing shrillish laughter, that travels for miles in every direction there most nights? As I may be leaving sooner than expected, but I didn’t. All of the shops have run out of beer, perhaps that might put a stop to it, or maybe they have stockpiles, or worse, several bottles of gin. I think I have earplugs on board somewhere.

Wednesday:
More headaches, I’m definitely on my way out. then again it might just be related to my infected tooth. That pain is firmly in the root now, and my tooth itself is fighting fit. I’m woken by a cracking sound from the hull, as if something is breaking. I jump out of bed, run on deck but can’t see anything. Back below and it repeats. I spent the whole day repeating this dance to no avail. My latest theory is that there’s crap in the water bashing the hull as it drifts past. I was going into Immigration today as my visa runs out, however I realised it runs out today and I’m not sure if that’s in the morning or at midnight, and they won’t renew it until it runs out, so instead I decide to wait until Mañana. The printer wont print my documents anyway, out of ink.
I spend a bit of time doing documentation for the software I’m about to write for some swiss solar power sites, then decide to check out the part numbers for the new toilet parts. Quite a dilemma really, the repair kit, which is mostly rubber seals/gaskets and rubber joker valves is $100, the whole pump assembly including all those valves is $130, and a whole new toilet is $200. I decide to dismantle it again, It was working great after I last fixed it just a few days ago, I’m assuming I did something wrong when I put it all back together. It’s stopped pumping water from outside for the flush. At least I’m working on the sea water side of things. There’s a blockage somewhere, I spend an hour chasing through hoses until eventually I find the problem, it’s a little fish, the size of a goldfish, he’s perfectly squeezed into a valve in the top of the toilet pump, but his tail is snagged on the outside so he won’t flush out.

I felt for the poor guy, it must have been an awful death as I pumped away trying to get water through. I expect it’s like the opposite of waterboarding for a fish, having air poured over your head. I wonder what secrets he gave up!

Thursday:
Visa day, Up early and off to the immigration office, I just managed to print out the forms I needed and a begging letter requesting humanitarian help, before the printer ran out of ink. I bought the printer in Malaysia a few years ago so it’s done amazingly well to last this long on the original cartridges.
Of course the Immigration office had a problem, “computer says no”, and I have to go back on Monday. It’s a good cycle to the office, but good exercise, and I can certainly tell I’m not so fit compared with a few weeks back. It’s also not great cycling with a face mask on in this heat, on the plus side, I’m swallowing a lot less flies.
I did some shopping on the way back and tried several stores for an inkjet cartridge, but it seems they only stock them for printers that are sold here. Disappointing to say the least. Throwing away ink jet printers is one of my pet hates. I picked up a kilo of fish from my friendly fisherman on the beach, he remembered me and was very smiley and cheery. I usually tip him for the fish, 10%, or 30p, not a lot really but he seemed to appreciate it. It must be difficult for the locals right now, the streets were very quiet, but I sensed a few more places open than usual. I think Mexico is hoping to reach its peak of new cases in the next week and then they may relax restrictions.
For the afternoons chores, I pulled out all of the anchor chain and rope rode and laid it out on the dock. It needed a fresh water wash and scrub. In bed last night the smell of fish from the chain locker was overwhelming. I took the opportunity to hose down the inside of the locker. I’m also going to reverse the rope rode while I have it out, there’s been a bit of hockling (untwisting/knotting of the rope) near the chain.

Friday:
A lazy start to the day, I’m suffering from heat rash which is waking me up on a regular basis through the night. I tried to get some lotions I use back home, but they have never heard of them here. Simple stuff like Calamine Lotion. Lots of Farmacias, but they all sell the same limited range. I will keep on looking.
Before the diver arrives I clean the chain, and the chain locker. I manage to get a new splice in the rope and discard about 30ft that is looking a bit flakey. That’s enough rope to make a lot of baggywrinkles.

Later in the morning Carlos the diver arrives , He is soon below with his cousin or uncle I think, they scrape for a good hour and do a wonderful job. They clear a lot of blocked thru hulls so I hope the deck wash will work now. They also help me put the chain back into the locker.

Carlos compliments me on the boat, asking if it’s a Hans Christian, which I’m quite happy to be confused with, The Hans Christian is a very pretty and solid boat, and possibly owes a lot to the same designer, Bob Perry, as Sister Midnight. I’m sometimes compared to a Tayana 37, which is a little bit of a snub. Boat owners can be quite snobby 😉 Anyway, Carlos points out the he and his uncle can do any boat job but specialise in painting and fiberglass repairs. I ask for a quote to fix up some missing chunks of coachroof that the dinghy gouged out on the passage over from Japan. I almost fall over when, after a bit of deliberation between themselves, they come up with a price of $50! I think I have already spent that much on gelcoat repair kits before deciding I could never get the colours to match. They start on Tuesday!
Carlos helps me stow the chain back in the locker before he leaves and I head below to see if the deck wash works now.
I redo all of the piping so the deck wash pump is fed from the correct sea cock/thru hull. It still doesn’t work, so I start pulling pipes off to poke a wire thru the fittings/hoses to find the blockage

Pulling this very sturdy looking hose, that has been on the boat since I bought her causes it to snap, without a lot of effort. Once again, I’m reminded this boat only stays afloat based on the laws of probability. Not because of my good preventative measures. Eventually I find the blockage, another poor fish tried to swim through the 3/4″ to 1/2″ reducer and never made it. His body swelled up and blocked the fitting. Yuk.
The deck wash is now working and the dead watermaker has a reliable source of sea water again, should it ever come back to life.
On the plus side, I have realised I’m in the right place to renew all the pipes and fitting in the bilge, there are great plumbing suppliers here and chandelries for the oddball stuff. It should be better than ever soon.

Saturday:
The heat rash is really annoying now, I head off to search for Lanolina Anhidra, but to no avail. I find some other emollients I’m hoping will work.
It’s been very hot in the marina so I decide to cover boat, this cover hasn’t been out of the locker since we were in Langkawi, Malaysia. I can barely remember how it goes on, but it does a great job of cooling the main cabin.
Hopefully I can work in there during the day now.

Paul Collister.

Sunday 26th April 2020:
It’s getting hard to justify being a lazy slob on Sundays now, when I’m doing very little on all of the other days, but today was a very lazy day. Yesterday I had a great long chat with my son Isaac on his 24th birthday. And today I had another lovely long chat with my daughter Yasmin.
I did a lot of reading up on viruses and realised they are bloody complicated things and that the scientists are a long way still from understanding this new Coronavirus. Here in La Paz, the lockdown seems to be working, I heard from a local that the hospital has next to no Covid patients, and that the deaths in town were really low, much lower than normal as car accidents make up a lot of the deaths here, and not many people are out, especially at night as there is a curfew after 10pm for all travel except emergencies. Like most places there hasn’t been much testing going on so it’s hard to know how many people have had it, but as everyone seems to be observing the strict lockdown, it may well be down to a handful of cases now. Of course once they start lifting restrictions here it could / probably will all kick off again. We shall see.
In about 2 weeks time, some airlines are planning to double the number of flights in and out of Mexico.
I used skype to call British Airways in the USA about my cancelled flight, I asked for a refund and within two minutes it was processed, the next day the money was in my account, hats off to BA, so glad I booked direct and missed out on the £5 saving via expedia.
So today I had my usual hour trying to learn a few more Spanish words. I watched a lot of dolphins frolicking around the boat, checked the hammock was still working ok, and had a great time watching boaters getting into trouble with the authorities. Recreational boating is not allowed right now, so going out for a day trip fishing has been banned, yet for some reason about a dozen sports fishing boats headed out this morning, full of Mexican families looking to have a fun day out in the bay fishing and picnicking. I sort of felt for them as they headed back, screaming past Sister Midnight riding high on their bow wave doing about 25 knots when they spotted the police boat and its support Jetski. The happy laughing folks on the speedboats suddenly stopped laughing as they killed the throttle, fell off the plane and then tried to sneak behind our yachts and make their way over to the far side of the bay where they were hoping to sneak in around the back of the authorities. It didn’t work as the JetSki roared over to intercept them, they had to wait until the big motor launch came along side and spent some time investigating them before they were released. This went on for a couple of hours and I saw about 8 boats stopped and interrogated. I have no idea what their punishment was but if you break the curfew it’s a few hundred dollars fine, so this could be similar.

Not long after the sun set and I decided to make another effort to find the north star Polaris. I did try when Jim was out here as the stars were so bright further up in the Sea of Cortez away from the city’s lights. but now I had the laptop and a wealth of online resources. I soon found Ursa Major and followed the two stars at the end down until I found the north star, I checked with the boats compass and it was close enough, I doubt if I could do more than hit a continent if I had to steer using that as my only guide. Those norsemen did pretty well to find there way around with that and a rusty nail hanging from a bit of string.

Monday:
It’s getting hot here now, so I went for swim around the boat at slack water (No current to take me away), the growth on the hull was bad. I swam around and wondered if the boat would be able to get back to the marina with such bad growth. In theory with my new diving certificate/knowledge, I could dive myself and clean things up, but for $40 I will get a local guy to do it soon.

The video above shows the extent of the growth. The prop and bow thruster were much worse, but I powered up the engine and gave them a spin, that removed a lot of the growth. As you can see at the end, it scrapes off quite easily, but it will take a while.

I spent the rest of the day in the hammock reading about Baja California South and hearing all about how they shot the Titanic movie here and how many famous stars from Hollywood would pop down here to party. The area was very popular in the period when gambling was banned in the USA and before it was banned here. Kathy and I visited a cultural centre in Ensenada which used to be a famous casino built by Jack Dempsey, a famous boxer?, possibly funded by AL Capone and frequented by many hollywood stars of the day.

Tuesday:
It’s going to be very hot all week, 37 in cabin today, hotter outside. I headed off to to supermarket early to avoid cycling back in the heat, but sadly by the time I reached the boat on my return the chocolate I bought was liquid and sloshing around inside the wrappers. Interestingly, the hershey’s bars tasted better after a second setting!
I called in to see Mike on SV Elsie Jones on my dinghy ride back to the boat, he’s an interesting guy from Manchester UK, but has been living in Thailand. Like many people he’s stuck here unable to continue onto his South Pacific voyage and now has to worry about where to put his boat for the hurricane season.
I did more swimming, reading and watching the dolphins who now visit every day.

Talking of hurricanes the season has started early, some people are predicting a quiet season this year, I’m not sure why as NOAA are predicting a few more hurricanes than the average, as the oceans are hotter than normal, and warm water is the main ingredient for a successful hurricane. NOAA issued a notice about the possible early formation of a tropical storm that looked rather close for my liking. This caused me to start my hurricane planning a few weeks earlier than I had planned. A bit of research showed me how devastating recent hurricanes have been in the area. My research is ongoing, but I may decide to head north soon, depending on covid. This particular disturbance fizzled out quite quickly.

Wednesday:
Chucked out a few emails to see what was needed from me for some possible programming projects.
Later for dinner I had pasta, now I usually cook my pasta in sea water, but this time when I filled the pan with water there was quite a few bits in the water, I usually ignore these, very small, probably a bit of yesterday’s dinner I missed in the wash? however these dark specs were darting around the pan, closer inspection revealed that they were very very small fish. I was a bit shocked so dumped it and used fresh water. Later I wondered what was wrong with me, I almost had big fish for dinner, so my logic was completely irrational, just like I would love to be able to eat barbequed crickets in a nice Thai sauce as we saw in Phuket, but really struggle with the whole idea.

Thursday:
Got some replies re work, so started to get myself back in the zone. However the holding tank was smelly so made concentrating difficult. I ended up spending the day fixing the toilet/holding tank and cleaning the bilge. Not a lot of fun, but needed to be done. All is good now, however I need to replace a few parts on the head, including a very expensive Y valve.

Friday:
Getting into the work thing now, but not really enjoying it. I can tell how much I’m into the work by how many other jobs I find that are essential to be done asap. For example, while searching through emails to find a work related thread, I noticed just how dull the table in the cabin had become. Work would have to stop while I gave this a polish, of course this only led to other essential cleaning jobs. In fact by the end of the day, the cabin was looking great, but I hadn’t got a lot of work done.

Saturday:
Guilt at the lack of work had me starting early before it got too hot.
I decided to reorganise my work, over the years I had often reorganised things to make it easier, I usually forget what I have done and start all over again. Today will probably be no different. My plan is to go over all the work I did on these projects, refresh the documents and move them and all the code to GitHub, a safe place where I can keep one master copy of everything I do up in the cloud. I’m quietly confident this will work, that is until next year when I forget that’s what I did, and go looking for the code elsewhere and end up in a mess again.

Most evenings at sunset I sit in the cockpit and munch on either homemade guacamole & tostadas, or some fruit. This week has been a disaster, I forgot to buy avocados early on, then the ones I bought mid week refused to ripen, despite the heat. Don’t worry (as if you would), I’m on top of it know, in fact, I may have 6 overripe avocados to get through in two days!

Yesterday on the morning radio net one of the local gringos came on to let us all know the coronavirus thing was a complete hoax (he had the official figures no less!) and we had all been part of the biggest con job ever. Nobody replied to him and the net controller politely moved onto the next subject of ‘Local Assistance’ for anyone wanting to find out where to buy stuff or get services etc.
Quite incredible.

Paul Collister.

I have given this page the title above, not to be a smartass or make a political statement, it’s just I want to make sure I’m reminded of this great wisdom that was recently imparted to me when I look back over the blog in years to come and we are back to more normal times.
Everything is just lovely here, out in the bay it’s very relaxing, quite calm and quiet. The anchor is firmly in place, and I’m popping ashore every 4 days to restock on bread, fruit & veg, and Cerveza Sin Alcohol.

Saturday: Out with the hammock. The temperatures have been steadily rising here, today we are hitting 35 Degrees Celsius. It’s expected to be getting up to the 40s next week.

Sunday: Saturday was exhausting, what with putting the hammock up, adjusting it, and chasing the pillow that blew out and went overboard So I decided to take Sunday off and just relax.
One thing that can be a worry out here is a phenomena they call ‘The La PAz Waltz’, this describes the crazy motion of the boats as they swing around at anchor. The reason it’s weird here is that in the bay we have two main channels separated by a shallow sandbank that runs down the centre, just a few feet below the surface. The bay is quite large, but has a narrow entrance at the end of the bank and consequently the tides can run quite fast, several knots most days.
As I mentioned before the current was enough to cause the boat a few hundred feet in front of me to pull their anchor out and he drifted down and almost hit us. So it’s always a worry that the anchor might come out and then I might drift onto the sandbank, into another boat, or get swept out of the bay with the current. There are several ways to deal with this. Firstly I have a chart plotter showing my position running 24/7 I can look at at any point to see where I am, I drop loads of markers down whenever I think I am at the extreme range of the chain in any new direction.

I have an anchor alarm App on my iPhone that makes a loud horrible klaxon sound when I drift too far from where I’m meant to be. This is a horrible way to be woken up at 3AM I can assure you, especially if it’s just because the iPhone couldn’t get a good GPS fix for a few minutes.
Finally I have the transits I take from the deck. For those who don’t know, transits are imaginary lines I make up between this boat and other objects, usually that don’t move on the shore. I did have a radio mast that lined up perfectly with a yachts mast when the tide was flowing into the bay. However that yacht left. Lining up masts of boats is problematic as unless they swing around the same as me, and none of them do here, then the transit is only good for one state of tide with the wind in a certain direction.
I do have one transit I love here, I have a picture below, when the tide is flooding strong, if I look between the masts of the ketch to port of me, it frames the two masts of the schooner behind it, and behind the schooner, bang in the middle is a third boats mast. It’s very reassuring when these all line up, as they have been doing for the last two weeks, as it means my anchor is well and truly set fast in the mud.

Monday: Off shopping to Chedraui, the big hypermarket where I’m shocked at the checkout to only be allowed to buy 2 cans of beer. It’s not even real beer. I could have bought two cartons of 12 cans each, but I only wanted 6 cans. It seems you can only have two, two cans, two cartons, possibly two 40ft containers of beer, but only two. I don’t really understand this, but I expect it’s bad software in the till that won’t let you have anymore than two items marked as alcoholic. I always hated it at the self service checkout when I had to get approval for my non alcoholic beer, and in America where often you just can’t put cerveza cero through an automated checkout. Come on ’till vendors’, get your act together.
As an aside, one of my first paid programming jobs in the early 80s was writing software for the tills in Austin Reed, on Regent St, London. I wrote a networking protocol that allowed the tills to communicate with an MP/M server and download PLUs and upload transactions. I had to connect all of the tills together and a grand total of the days sales appeared on a big monitor in the boardroom. I was astounded when the grumpy old directors were complaining that they took until 1pm to get their first million pounds of the day into the tills!

Tuesday: I decided with all of this sunshine, I should be making water with the surplus power from the solar panels, The batteries are fully charged by mid morning. The machine hadn’t been run in many months, possibly a year and when I fired it up it wasnt pumping sea water through the system.

Upon further investigation it seemed that there was a problem with the high pressure pump. I pondered on stripping it all down and investigating, but decided instead to make some Guacamole and have a gentle time for the rest of the day and to convert some left over nylon rope into baggywrinkles.

Wednesday: Mike on Ikigai had anchored next to me in the bay, he needed to get some minor repairs done on his engine and we had a great chat, mostly about how crazy many of the yachties were here ignoring the social distancing. I stayed onboard and Mike was in his dinghy while we chatted. I lent mike my outboard to save him rowing ashore.
Time to rebuild the watermaker. The pump came out easy enough and it appeared to be seized, but may have just been very stiff.

One of the bolts snapped off during the process, crevice corrosion again, probably caused by sea water leaking into the pump casing. Fortunatley I had the exact spare on board, which made me think the previous owner was expecting this? I was able to get the piston out and clean everything up and re-assemble the pump. What’s that phrase people often say to me, ‘Don’t give up your day job Paul’. The pump leaked badly and also didn’t pump, making me think the real problem might be in the motor that drives it. It could also be the membrane is so blocked that no amount of pressure will get water through it, but I doubt it.

The watermaker is over 20 years old and so probably due for replacement. I always wanted to build my own using off the shelf components, membranes can be bought easily around the world for under $100, but this unit has special proprietary ones, that will cost $800 to replace, last time I looked.
This is on the back burner now. I’m not going anywhere so no big deal.

Friday: another shopping trip, I bought a six pack of Cerveza Sin Alcohol this time, and that went through no problem. On the way back to Sister Midnight I stopped by to say hi to Mike on Ikigai, and drop off 20 ltrs of water he had asked me to get for him. He’s heading off to the north shortly, hoping to do some charitable work helping the locals who are in remote areas and might be struggling. Mike gave me a very fancy bluetooth speaker, RRP $$$, it had died on him, so I was hoping it might be a simple fix.

Now here’s a note of caution, not all teardowns on youtube are good. This one gets 90% of the way and realises he is doing it all wrong. I got 90% of the way and found out that he was right! bugger, still I managed to get this seemingly one mould piece of kit into lots of bits. I was hoping for a fuse, or a flat battery or something obvious, but Nada, so facing the second defeat of the week it is boxed up and waiting some inspiration before I take it apart again.
I retreated to the Hammock for the rest of the day and watched turtles and dolphins swim by while I read about the Myths and Legends of Baja California.

Thursday: Spending so much time sitting in the cockpit looking out I realised I had a lot of stuff on the back of the boat that didn’t need staring at, all the life saving kit like the Danbuoy, the horseshoe etc aren’t much use when solo and at anchor, so I moved them to the quarter berth where they will be spared the UV degradation. I also set about rewiring and tidying up the multitude of wires that run up to the solar panel and antenna on the rear arch. It’s looking quite sparse out there now and is begging to be polished. I also brought in the self steering rudder as the Marina will want to charge me for the extra foot it takes up sticking out the back of the boat when I finally move in there.

I recently saw Jamie on his ‘Follow the Boat’ vlog making a mat out of rope, this is a bit like baggywrinkles, in the sense of ‘what to do on a boat when you are bored’ I’m never bored, but always planned to do this on a long passage one day to while away the hours on watch. I have done a 5 week passage and never once felt the urge to make baggywrinkles or a doormat, but somehow this piece of rope was screaming out to be made into a rug.

So I decided to get into this slowly and I have started with a small Celtic Knot. I might move onto the harder stuff later, but it’s kind of fun.

On the way back from the shopping trip I took a detour around the anchorage and was taken by how pretty this Canadian ketch was looking.

If you can’t read the next section in a Philip Marlow/Private eye voice, then just skip it, otherwise it’s too silly.

“It had been a while and i was about to run out of the hard stuff, Jimmy the Shark had hinted at a place a few blocks away, that for the right price might sort me out. I made my way over, and was let through the door by a wary old man. There was a grill between us, but he knew why I was there, 140 peso he said, as he slid a bottle of the stuff my way. 70% pure he said, I suspected it had been cut with some cactus juice, maybe aloe vera, but it looked the part. I handed over the money and made a quick exit before anyone took an interest.”

So back to Saturday, and work, and I mean real work. I have been wondering about making some money for a while now, and today I sent out a few emails about projects that I have been asked to get involved in to do with the solar power monitoring systems I built a while back. I’m not sure what my customer is doing now as a result of the virus, but I love the way their solar panels and the wind turbines have just carried on feeding power into the grid and raising invoices without a second thought to Covid-19. Wish I had some systems like that.

Paul Collister.

Being at the cutting edge of technology on board Sister Midnight, I decided I should make preparations in case any of the ship’s crew ( i.e. me) come down with the virus. To this end I have fully equipped the ship with an emergency ward known as Sister Nightingale.
For those not familiar with British myths and legends, Florence Nightingale sort of invented hospitals in the old empire, and is thought of highly there, however some of her first ideas, which were experimental, killed off an awful lot of the british public unnecessary, so quite fitting the my government have decided to follow her example and build these ‘Nightingale hospitals’ around the UK.

This all started as a byproduct of installing the fan I had promised Kathy a few years ago. Once this was in I realised I was well on the way to having my own nightingale ward. Just needed to add a few extra items….

I have instigated a quick checklist I will have to follow before I can admit myself into the ward. Details below

Now I feel fully equipped to take on whatever comes my way.

Seriously, I hope you are all well, everything is great here. I’m working on the boat, I go ashore every 3 or 4 days for fresh bread and drinks, and spend the rest of the time being lazy, reading zillions of tweets, or doing boat jobs.

Last Saturday I polished the steel on the bowsprit pulpit, this gets mucky quickly as it’s in the firing line for spray when bouncing around on passage. I have found this pink cleaning liquid that everyone uses here. It’s magic on stainless steel. It’s basically oxalic acid with some other stuff. you just rub it on and the rust disappears and everything is shiny. If you wait a minute, it goes dull and grey, so you have to wash it off with fresh water fairly quickly, then a quick rub with a cloth and it looks like new. The only problem is if you get it on your skin, which of course I specialise in, then it stings like hell for a long time.

My tooth which had been hurting for a few days now was getting bad, so I made an emergency appointment with the dentist for Monday.
On Sunday my tooth was not so bad, so I had a lazy day and did a bit more cleaning in the main cabin.

On Monday I headed over to the dentist to find I have an infection and will need root canal treatment, and a crown. What joy, a lot of money, but worse a lot of time, it might take as many as 5 visits to the dentist, and the crown has to be made in Mexico city and sent down here. I can’t return home during this process so I’m wondering what to do. The pain has almost gone now and I have antibiotics to take should I need them. I also don’t think it’s the safest of things for me or the dentist to be doing at this time given the rapid increase in virus cases in Mexico.
After the dentist, I headed off to the Supermercado and stocked up on supplies, then back to the Marina. I had dumped a load of washing into the launderette machine on my way to the shops and it was ready now to be dried back at the boat.
Once all the washing was up and drying on the boat I remembered the main job I had been putting off, the toilet! It seems like only yesterday I was getting acquainted with the pipes and valves, but I think it was March last year when I last had it in bits. The lower valve was sticking, so I took it apart and cleaned it all up, and once it was reassembled it seems to be working a lot better. I usually flush it through very thoroughly, then let some bleach sit in the system before I start work, it’s quite a clean operation, what always gets me is the amount of calcium that is built up in the pipes and valves, this scrapes off easily enough, but as I’m looking at it I’m always thinking, ‘Is that really my bones that are wasting away’.

Wednesday was spent rubbing down the teak trim on the coach roof in preparation for varnishing. Thursday I popped ashore again, did some shopping and back to the boat in record time. More rubbing down of the teak, ready to varnish now.
Friday was meant to be varnish day, but by the time I was up and about the sun was already heating the boat up way too much, the wood was very warm, so the varnish will have to wait for a cloudy day or I will have to get up earlier. So I decided to do a bit of polishing today.
One of the things I love about the indefinite shutdown is I don’t have any deadlines at all right now. So I don’t have any excuses for not doing a proper job. Usually I have to weigh how long a piece of work takes and consider that I will be leaving port, or flying home, or some other event in x days time, hence giving me a great get out clause for only doing part of the job, or even rushing it. Now I have no excuse for not taking as long as it takes to do it properly.
Today I started at the bow, starboard side and worked my way back doing everything I could see that needed attention. Starting at the windlas, some ropes were fraying, so they were tidied, then I remembered that while Tim was here the windlass clutch was sticking a bit when he was deploying the anchor.

So I took the gypsey/clutch apart and gave it the best cleaning its ever had. It runs lovely now.
Next onto the stanchions/shrouds and lifelines. These came up lovely as well.

Earlier today I managed to catch some fish being chased acros the bay, there’s a little video below

Finally a very happy golden wedding anniversary to Kathy’s sister Bobbie and her husband Bruno, I’m sorry you aren’t able to get out to celebrate, but I hope you have a great day all the same.

Paul Collister

I took the trip into the marina by dinghy on Monday and booked a slip for the next 3 months. I explained to the manager that I would be staying at anchor until I needed to come in and use the slip, which will probably be when I run out of water or have a flight home.
As I write this I’m sitting in the cockpit watching the sun set with a glorious red sky, while dolphins swim around the boat. In the distance I can hear two dogs conversing across the bay from different boats anchored out here. I expect they are complaining about the virus. All in all it’s extremely peaceful and relaxing.
The government of Mexico have issued a 96 hour curfew for all of Mexico, and no one is allowed out of their homes or off their boats unless it is an emergency. This is fine with me as I wasn’t going anywhere anyway.

I do get a little irked by some of my fellow yachties who don’t think the curfew applies to them and that they can go off sailing elsewhere and ignore the restrictions, however it seems the military are quite active now patrolling the islands and evicting yachties who have pitched up there.

Tuesday was quite a lazy day, as most days are now. I wrote some software that allowed my Raspberry pi to pull in GPS data from my little usb gps stick ($10). I was mostly using gpsd for those who might be interested in linux/gps stuff. It was great seeing all the NMEA packets piling in off such a cheap device. I started to write some software to pull out the interesting data but hit problems with finding the right libs and header files for C, but that’s normal and at least we are on the way.
The main excitement of the day came just before sunset, I stuck my head out of the cabin and was rather surprised to see the big whale museum ship in trouble ahead of me, it was drifting down on me as the skipper was trying to get the anchor up and get out of the way. He must have been dragging. I felt bad as I had anchored quite close to him, and he probably could have dragged some way if I wasnt there a few boat lengths away.

However I expect he didn’t want to be dragging at all and as he wrestled to get his anchor up, it became clear his chain was tangled up in some of Davy Jones’s debris. He ended up motoring past me with his anchor still down, until he was in a deeper part of the channel where he then spent an hour, into the approaching darkness, struggling with what looked like a metal step ladder attached to his chain.

Eventualy he sorted it and went and anchored some distance away from me.

I have had quite a few people getting in touch concerned for my well being, and anxious about the situation here. Well I am grateful for your concern, but to be honest, I couldn’t be happier sitting out here at anchor. The only thing missing is Kathy. Hopefully she can get out here if I can’t get back there. It’s very safe here, the state authorities are taking the virus very seriously, even if the Federal government is struggling. Things will get worse I’m sure, but hopefully not as bad as they are back home. To get home right now, which is an option, requires a long bus ride, then 4 airports, and a lot of hanging around. I will probably end up back in Liverpool, exhausted, infected, and stuck in a small apartment self isolating for a few weeks. Give me dolphins and great sunsets any day.

Wednesday came and I started on the boat jobs. I got the wood glue out and repaired a broken galley draw that smashed sometime when a big wave hit us and the draw shot out and flew across the boat, I think possibly on the pacific crossing. I did some deck repairs in the cockpit and much to my delight I repaired the foot powered ‘galley gusher fresh water pump’. This is a foot operated pump that pumps fresh water into the galley sink. This has two purposes for me, firstly, should the main pressure pump fail, I can still get fresh water out of the tank, but more usefully it delivers a much more controlled amount of water. So helps to preserve precious supplies, especially when away from potable water for a while.

Thursday was a quiet day, like wednesday it was quite overcast and cool, raining at one point. I headed into town to replenish supplies. I also had a water pump to drop of with Mike on Ikigai, getting to him was going to be interesting as the Malecon is closed so I had to take the back streets which are quite hilly.

It was good to see Mike, he is planning on sailing north just as soon as he can. His boat is looking much better, and is probably much more seaworthy than when I first met him back in Turtle Bay last year.
Marina Palmira is a nice place and I was reminded of just how many classic looking boats, a bit like my own are hanging out down here. I mean old fashioned looking, double enders (Pointy at both ends), ketches, schooners etc. These are considered good boats for crossing oceans, and that’s what most people down here are doing or have already done.

This is in stark contrast to when I would walk the pontoons in Greece, Spain or even Liverpool, where most of the boats looked the same, Beneteaus, Jeanneau or Bavarias basically. We oddballs refer to these as AWBs or Average White Boats, that’s a bit unfair really, as they are often great boats, just a very popular. I quite fancy retiring to the med on a 32ft Bavaria, will be great for the grandkids, whenever they arrive.

So today is Friday, I didn’t do much today, polished some stainless on the bow, wired up the wind generator, and did a bit of tidying.

I have been listening to the BBC World service podcast of the apollo 13 mission, I just stumbled upon this and it’s been fantastic, it came out a few years ago and is being repeated. I thought I would listen to all of the episode in a run this week, but was gutted to find I have to wait a week for the next episode, they are almost home, but barely alive. I have to say, it helps put the corona virus in context for me. These guys really were in trouble. Lovell at one point thought ‘this is really bad, Let’s just go home’ before instantly realising that wasn’t an option. I would have been terrified.

The picture above is of an Albacore dinghy that sailed past me earlier today. The guy was having a great time, despite the fact it’s a two man boat. The reason I particularly liked seeing this was because it’s a British design, by a guy called Uffa Fox, there are a large fleet of these boats back in my home town of West Kirby, and they race often on the lake. The boat is basically a bigger version of the firefly dinghy, also designed by Uffa Fox. A firefly (1069) was the first dinghy I owned, probably when I was around 15 back in the early 70’s. I used to sail it on the lake as often as possible and had a great time in it.

Paul Collister

I motored into La Paz and dropped the hook close to Marina Cortez, which is where I last sailed from when Tim & Asta arrived.

I was able to dinghy in to Marina de la Paz and pick up my mail that had only just arrived there, despite being posted 4 weeks ago and arriving in Mexico 3 days after leaving Liverpool.
While I was at the marina office I bumped into the manager outside, asking what the state of play was regarding slip availability in his marina. He informed me that he had slips but was only offering them on a minimum of 3 months rent. I said I may well be interested. The marina is relatively safe, I don’t know how well it would do in a direct hurricane strike, but it’s probably the best option available around here, plus there is good security and a strong community of Americans and Canadian liveaboards (often known as die-aboards) there to keep an eye on things.
Everything is closed and gloves and face masks are mandatory in the marina, and now also out on the streets.

I retrieved my bike which had been chained to the railings for the last few weeks and headed off to the supermarket.

The roads were quieter and the supermarket wasn’t busy and fully stocked.
Back at the marina dinghy dock, I loaded up Kathy’s bike and headed back to the boat. I thought I would leave my bike in the marina as I would probably do one last shop before I head off to the north to hide away.

The thought of where to leave the boat for the hurricane season, or where to leave it should I have to return home sooner was my number one worry.

One of the reasons people don’t like to anchor here is because it’s crowded and very busy with tourist boats and pangas racing through the moorings at all hours. However as I sat in the cockpit devouring a lovely tuna salad freshly made, I realised it was very peaceful here. The sun was setting over the El Magote sand peninsula, all the tourist boats have long stopped, even the fishermen seem to have disappeared.

This might be the quietest it has ever been since the days when Steinbeck visited on the Western Flyer in 1940.
The desire to go home to see Kathy and my kids is quite strong, however the lockdown in the UK means I couldn’t see them easily anyway. I would have to self isolate from Kathy, given that I might have to traverse 4 airports and maybe a few train stations to get back to Liverpool, I risk bringing the virus back to the UK.
Every day the Mexican authorities, locally and at a federal level are closing things down. The latest is the closure of the breweries. This has sent several dieaboards into a tailspin judging by the comments on the local VHF radio chat freq CH22. I don’t drink, and feel very strongly that drinkers should not be allowed to buy my alcohol free beer (Cerveza sin Alcohol) unless they are truly giving up the demon.

When faced with so many variables and unknowns it’s hard to make good choices. I like to whittle things down to what I do know for certain and also to try and get priorities sorted. My main worry is that the marina berths will sell out before I decide where to go. Without anywhere to keep the boat I would be forced to stay here and sail around until the pandemic and hurricane season is over (November for the wind, who knows for Covid), that’s not a great option, but might be fun. I have an option here that solves many issues if I need to go home, so upon reflection I decided to take the marina up on their offer of a slip for 3 months. This is not cheap, but when I put the cost I will pay here, against the cost of any other place the difference isn’t massive, and compared with how much money my investments (Pension fund) have lost, it’s miniscule. So I now have a place here for 3 months.
My next problem is that once I go into the marina I am expected to stay until the crisis is over. No day trips out, or jaunts around the islands. The boat is my home, and I am supposed to stay in it and not travel anywhere. The marina seem clear on this and I don’t want to go against the flow. I think it’s important that as visitors from a richer country we don’t appear to the locals, who will be suffering terribly from this, to be carrying on with our rich hobby on our luxury yachts without a care for anyone else.
My concern is that within the marina, the expat community are a tightly knit bunch, with a few virus sceptics amongst them, I think some are just ignorant of how easy this virus can be spread, and they are all mingling together, meeting for dinner in each others cockpits, sharing beers at sundown, using the communal showers etc. I really fear for them, many are elderly and this sometimes feels more like a retirement home than a marina, once the virus gets a grip, if it hasn’t already, they may be in big trouble.
The berth I have been assigned is right in the middle of this group!
So my current thinking is that I will dinghy in tomorrow (Monday morning) and do the paperwork for my berth, pay my dues and explain I will be bringing the boat in at a later date, probably when I run out of water on board. In the meantime I can sit out here, over 100ft from anyone else, feeling quite safe, and watch developments from afar.

I need to make a trip up the channel anyway to take on fuel as I only have 1/2 tank and there is talk of fuel stations being closed, I think this is to stop people travelling over the Santa Semana (Easter) holiday period.

I’m going to be out here at anchor for a while, so I really have no excuse for not doing the jobs.
Firstly I decided to wire up the gas detector alarm I have been carrying around for a few years. Obviously it would have been premature to install it back then as I haven’t had any leaks for it to discover! However I wired it up in a temporary fashion and bombarded it with propane from my stove and an unlit lighter. Not a whisper, I could smell the gas but the detector kept flashing green. I think I need a new detector.
Next I had a look at the power controller for the wind generator. It seems this requires a dump load, a place to dump up to 25Amps of power if the wind generator is making it and the battery is charged. I’m working on how to do this. They also casually mention adding a diode to the feed from the generator, I presume this would need to be 25A, not something I keep on the boat. Another project for after the virus.
Next onto the Marine VHF Radios. I have made a few calls lately with no reply. I suspected both radios have faults, the main one seems to be very crackly and I suspected the cable to the hand mic. Sure enough it was a bad case of snap crackle and pop when I tried it on ch17. I used a UK VHF radio to listen on, this is a great radio I had on Stardust, but it doesn’t have the North American channels which are used a lot here. I took a few inches off the cable where it entered the microphone handset and rewired it. It’s in a bad way, and really needs a new cable, but I suspect the cost of this, even if it’s available would make it cheaper to buy a new one. I think it’s crazy to throw away a perfectly good radio costing around £150 for the sake of a cable that only costs a few pounds to make. Anyway, after my hacking at the decomposing cable, I was able to put it back together again and it works perfectly now. I hope I might get another year or two out of it yet.

Now onto the handheld, the audio level on the microphone seemed very low. It works well as a receiver but listening to me talking on it, I sounded very quiet and distant. As you can see I had to repair the aerial before as the rubber/plastic surround had decomposed, presumably through age and UV. But worse I have a habit of balancing the radio on the top of the binnacle where it tends to jump off and break into pieces on the cockpit deck.
The battery was being held in place by a generous amount of insulation tape wrapped around the body of the radio. I tested the audio level against my UK radio and it was indeed very quiet. I pondered what the problem might be and looking for the microphone slot I realised I had taped over it with a few layers of tape. Duh, I removed the tape and all is well, at least until the battery falls off, but that can be solved with some glue or something.

So a failure on the windgen and gas detector, but great success on the radios.

Paul Collister

I’m writing a slightly longer, and probably more boring blog this week as I have a bit of time sitting at anchor, and I don’t suppose a lot of you are doing much either. Kathy is stuck in her apartment in Liverpool, wondering like most of us , when will things get back to normal.

Tim and Asta got their flights home and are now safely isolated in their house in Galway.

Meanwhile I’m even more isolated, at least from a viral point of view, at anchor on Sister Midnight in the sea of Cortez.

On Friday I tidied the boat up, and converted the guest suite (Quarter Berth) back into a store room. Basically this involved moving 5 suitcases and a lot of diving gear from Kathys side of our bed, into the Quarter Berth. 

The Marina office informed me that I would have to get fuel before 12 o’clock or wait until Monday as a big motor yacht was coming in, I had just ordered water to be delivered to the boat by truck and I wouldn’t have a lot of time after it arrived to get over to the fuel dock, so I prepared the boat to depart and waited for the water man. The water in the marina is good enough for washing with, but not good enough for drinking, so you get big jugs of water delivered by truck. Each jug carries about 20 litres and costs $2, it’s only $1 in the corner shop, but they don’t deliver. I put 12 jugs into the starboard tank and it was nearly full. Then it was full speed over to the fuel dock before the big boat arrived. I found myself queued behind two other sailboats waiting for fuel. If you’re wondering why I say ‘Sailboat’ these days, it’s because in this part of the world a big motor boat is called a yacht, strange I know. I always thought the definition of a yacht was a boat with a sail!

Later as the sun was setting I made a trip to the supermarket and filled up with goodies and dried goods. I have enough food on board for 4 weeks if needed, but for how long I could live on rice and beans is another matter. I’m disinfecting the food packaging as I bring it on board, then storing the dried goods in the QB out of reach to give the virus time to die off. I picked up a few items in the chemists which Im hoping to combine with some IPA (99% Alcohol)  I have on board in order to make some hand sanitiser if needed. 

Saturday was a lazy day, a bit of local shopping, and preparation for going back out to sea. I chatted with a group of Americans who were all very keen to get out of Mexico and return home. They fear Mexico might get quite unruly if the virus wreaks havoc here. Like myself, they are faced with many questions. Firstly their home country has more cases than anywhere else in the world and a leader who seems to struggle with the basics of science. Johnson may be better on the science front, but he heads a government that is happy to ignore facts if they are awkward for him. Both of our leaders seem more worried about their own position rather than the lives of their people. Still I digress. Secondly the Hurricane season approaches, although most of the damage tends to happen later in the summer, hurricanes have been here as early as May. So going home and leaving the boat here is risky. Finally it seems much safer from a virus point of view here than back home. Just ten confirmed cases and no deaths in the state (Baja California Sur). Just two cases in La Paz, but how accurate these figures are is unknown. If I play my cards right, I could be leaving here as things get bad to arrive in the UK as things are improving, or is that just wishful thinking.

I’m planning to find a safe place for the boat before I fly back in early May. Right now I’m thinking of La Paz, Puerto Escondido or maybe over on the mainland in Guyamas or possibly in Mazatlan. For now I’m heading north into the Sea Of Cortez again. I plan to anchor somewhere with good 3g and make enquiries about where to go. I also need to keep an eye on flights as things are changing all the time. There’s lots of military here (La Paz) with a Naval base in town. I expect it won’t be polite(ish) policemen telling you to stay indoors, but military men pointing machine guns at you. That might have more effect!

So this morning (Sunday 29th March) I left the Marina in glorious sunshine to head north back towards La Paz. The boat performed well, and I sailed for the first hour, then the wind dropped, then it turned to be on the nose as I was expecting. The wind was changing all the time and often went behind the boat. At one point the main emptied and filled with an almighty whack and the outhaul on the foot snapped off the traveler inside the boom. 

This meant the loose footed mainsail was flapping wildly around the show with just the reefing lines giving it some shape. After a bit of flapping, me and the sail, I managed to get some rope through the clew and brought the sail back to the boom and under control. An hour later the rope chaffed through and I had to repeat the whole operation, this time I used shackles to the old wire outhaul. Not perfect, but pretty good. After 5 hours of sailing/motor sailing at an average of 3.5 knots, the wind turned to the N and increased in strength to 20-25 knots. I increased the revs on the engine and we moved slowly to los Frailes doing between 1.5 knots and 5 knots, the big waves on the bow often slowed the boat right down.

It was a lot nicer a few days back on the way south with the wind behind, we saw lots of whales, here a video clip of some of them

Los Frailes was very busy with 8 boats at anchor, I’m keen to know if they are heading south or north. I anchored badly and by the time the anchor set I was just a few boat lengths in front of another sailboat, very much like mine in shape. I think we are well set in so it shouldn’t be a problem.

 It’s Monday and given that the wind is keeping me in this sheltered cove for a few days I decide to take on the wind generator. The wind is blowing strong across the bay and the generator would be a great way of keeping the batteries topped up through the night. However it feels like the main bearings for the machine are stuffed, it is seized solid. My first plan was to take the generator off the top of the pole, but I hit the first problem, aluminium fittings secured to a  steel pole,  they aren’t going to part easily, and given that the join is above the solar panels and it’s going to take a lot of force, I don’t want to risk dropping the hammer on the solar panels. So I decide to remove the pole from the bottom fitting, but I have the same problem there. Finally I take the blades off, the vane off and unscrew the base from the cap rail and bring the whole setup into the cockpit. Now I can’t work out how to get the shaft out and the bearings. So the job is put on hold until tomorrow.

Tuesday arrives and after a nice sleep in I get back on the wind generator job. I decide to try again to remove the generator from the pole, and with the help of some WD40 and a hammer I free the generator. By now the shaft is actually turning, but quite roughly. The shaft seems to be solid on the bearing and the bearing is very tight on the housing so This is going to have to wait. I try pouring some light oil onto the shaft and around the bearings. This actually makes a difference, so wherever the salt got into the sealed bearing, so is the oil now. After working the shaft around for 30 minutes of so, it’s running freely. It’s not completely smooth as it turns, but I think this is the effect of the magnets on the stator. Anyway, I put it all back together and attach the blades. 

I take the whole assembly forward of the cockpit. My plan was to hold the generator with the vanes pointing into the wind, I wasn’t sure if they would spin or there was still too much friction. So sure enough they start to turn, I’m impressed, but only for about 1/4 second, in the next 1/4 second the blade are spinning fast enough to do some serious damage, 1/4 second later I’m holding blades spinning faster than a helicopter in flight, and I’m thinking I might be in flight any moment, it’s quite scary, so I quickly spin my body and the generator so it’s end on to the wind, this will stop it quickly, however the blades catch something and BANG BANG it stops as two blades are snapped off. Gutted, it was spinning so well, now it’s a bin job. I already broke one blade in Malaysia and when I ordered a replacement I was told there are no more blades, I had the last one.  The generator is an Aero6gen .and was installed 20 years ago, so it’s done well, but it was of an older solid slow rotating quiet type which aren’t around anymore.

Not to write it off completely, I rearranged the blades so they were balanced, and put the thing back up. Once unleashed it spun like crazy, partly because it had no load, but also because it was quite windy. I’m going to reconnect it next time I’m at anchor for a while.  It never had a regulator, so may have played its part in the demise of my old batteries, I have an old 12v solar panel regulator that I may be able to use. It may not be a total loss.

The only other event today was the organisation of a pot luck dinner on the beach by the Californians from two different boats. In all I heard 4 boats agree to meet up, all organised on CH16. I declined, I don’t think now is the time to be partying! As it turned out the surf was too big for them to get their dinghies on the beach, so they all met up in the cockpit of one of the larger sailboats. It’s a shame, but that is one of the nicer aspects of cruising, gathering with fellow cruisers and talking nonsense all night long in the cockpit. Under the current rules my prime minister has banned me from such get togethers, and to be honest, I think I want to hold off on getting the virus for a good few months, I want to be on the Dyson Ventilator MK2 or preferably Mark 3, not Version 0.12 Beta.

Interestingly, the local fishermen here beach their boats each night by driving them onto the beach at full speed. You hear them motor out a bit, then turn to the beach and at full revs scream up onto the gravel beach. Quite a site. I may have to invest in a real camera to catch these things, but have a look at my little iPhones effort.

It’s an early night tonight as I want to be away before 8AM. Im heading for Muertos, along with at least 8 other boats from here. There’s supposed to be 5-7 days of calmer/southerly weather on the way.

Wednesday, Up at 6 and away by 7. I watched a lovely sunrise, while all the other sailboats scuttled away, most heading North, one heading south and probably around the cape and then north to America.
Two days ago I heard a report that all the ports in Mexico are now closed to all traffic, entering or leaving. This would be a pain for me, but yesterday I heard that this does not apply to private cruising boats, and that La Paz was in fact working as normal, as where many other ports. There’s a lot of confusion. Certainly it seems all the tourist boats have been told to stop, but then again, there ain’t a lot of tourists around.
Up came the anchor and on with the engine as I motored north to Muertos. The weather forecast predicted a southerly wind and when I got some signal I checked again and it was showing ‘Southerly 10 to 15 knots’, reducing to 10 in the evening. Not a lot, but Muertos is very exposed to the south and I wondered if the bay would amplify the waves to make it a bit miserable there. As I approached I could see the waves were quite big so I motored on around to the north side of the Point and anchored off Ventana beach. Very calm, but some left over swell from the north makes it a little rolly every now and then. The Americans, they of the Pot Luck group, ploughed on into Muertos, I wonder what kind of night they will have. Listening to them on Ch16, the VHF calling and distress frequency, I imagine they are all off their heads on coke or amphetamines, they are talking so fast and in a crazy hyper active way. I tried to talk to them, but they seem to only be able to talk, not listen. Very strange.
Salad for dinner before it goes off.

It was a rolly night, every now and then some big swell would hit the boat and find the resonant frequency of the hull, the boat would then rock and roll enough to wake me up. So at 7AM I was up and off. Heading to the La Paz region. I have arrived in a small bay , Bahia Falso, next to La Paz where I have 5 bars of 4G so I can upload this blog and also do some proper research about where to go next.

I have already heard the proclamation from the BCS district governor that everybody is to go into lock down. Everything but essential services are to stop, and people must stay indoors unless they are shopping. Much like everywhere else now. There have been 2 deaths in La Paz so far, so nothing major yet, but as in most poor places, the level of testing is very low.

Watch this space..

Paul Collister

Corona Virus Warning.
For those of you self isolating, you may find scenes of lots of people partying disturbing and they may stir up distant memories. 😉

So once Jim had left for Canada, and I had recovered from my illness it was carnival time. The malecon which runs for several miles along the waterfront here in La Paz was filled with music stages and vendors selling all kinds of stuff, but mostly sweet things like Churros (Doughnuts). There was a funfair and amusement arcade type attractions. There was also a big parade of floats on a few of the nights. The carnival lasted a week and went well into the night starting around 5pm most nights.

The sound stages, as they are called these days, had a very wide mix of bands and performers, from school kids dancing to a very dodgy rap version of ‘My Macarena’ to traditional mexican and Mariachi bands.
I put together a 3 minute compilation of the acts I saw as I strolled the malecon. I know Kathy will be gutted to have missed the exciting brass band that starts about 1:40 in.

The Parade was very colourful and was based on ‘The Feast of the Gods’. Again I made a 5 minute video compilation as I walked along the malecon.

I spent a few weeks in la Paz after Jim left working on the boat while waiting for Tim & Asta to arrive. This was my first time alone here and I took the opportunity to explore on my bicylce a bit. There are some lovely spots here, and quite a few interesting old and new buildings.

I learnt a few more Spanish words relating to fish and headed on down to the beach to see if I could buy fish from the local fishermen. This turned out to be easier than I thought and I ended up with a kilo of Cabrella, filleted, for about £4, it tasted great, I have now also learnt to say, ‘do you have any other fish’

Murals
I posted a short vid to the baba sister midnight facebook page of the murals.
Below are some pictures I took of La Paz’s many murals. I was lucky to be invited to join Colin and family from SV Pristine on a guided tour of the murals. The back stories are fascinating, the mural below depicts the story of how the local fishermen were persuaded to stop fishing for a few years to allow an endangered species to restock. It was an amazing success and this man had a lot to do with persuading the local fishermen to sit on their hands for so long.

The statue below is meant to be Jacques Cousteau, a famous diver that has recently had an island renamed after him.

The Mural above depicts many aspects of the changing life here, but appeals to me as I have just finished my PADI scuba diving course. I was at the bottom of the ocean! (Well 60ft down) taking off my breathing gear, practising emergency ascents and lots of other terrifying feats.

I did a 3 day course, which followed tests on my theory I had been studying for the past few weeks. The first day was in a swimming pool, so nice and easy. The second day we dived off the Isla Islote rock that has a sea lion colony and were surrounded by big colourful tropical fish and sea lions nibbling on our fins (Flippers to the uninitiated).
It was great, however I couldn’t really enjoy the view as I was trying to remember all the important things I had to do if I didn’t want to die, like, keep breathing, keep checking how much air you have left, don’t ascend to quickly, manage your trim, check what the dive computer on my wrist is telling me, etc etc.
On the final day we dived on a shipwreck. I had always thought shipwreck had to be very old and possibly have gold and ming vases on them, but it seems ships keep sinking even in these modern times. This ship was the MV Salvatierra, a big RORO ferry, with quite a few trucks on board and went down in 1976. There’s more on the wreck here. It was odd seeing trucks laying on their side 60ft down.

I also used my time alone to get my teeth spruced up a bit. I had heard good things about Mexican dentists, and I needed a clean, so when the local yacht club announced that they had a discount with the local dentist, where you got a full checkup and clean for about £12, I was in. The view from the chair was brilliant, as you can see below. Even the waiting room had a great arty book on Frida Kahlo, a mexican artist.

Tim and Asta arrive

I hired a car and drove down to San Jose del Cabo international airport to pick them up. This time the drive was a lot easier.
Their plane direct from Gatwick arrived and we drove back to the boat. It was great seeing them and I wondered what kind of trip we might have when we set off, Tim was staying for 4 weeks but Asta was leaving after two. Both needed to be close to San Jose del Cabo international airport to get home. But first they had to get over the jet lag and have a look around La Paz. After they had dropped off their bags we headed to a local beach restaurant called Estrella Mar, where there was a teenage girls birthday party happening, so we got free entertainment from the band. See if you can spot my mate Peter earning a bit on the side 😉 (Sorry Peter).

The next day we walked around town, did a supermarket shop and dined in bandidos, a cool place where they cook the steaks on a hotplate inside an engine compartment of a jeep. I took Jim there and he was impressed, I think Tim & Asta were too.

The next day was Saturday so we visited the organic/craft market and bought some trinkets

On Sunday we untied our lines in the Marina and headed north. We didnt go far on the first day and dropped the anchor in Candelera bay on Santo Espiritu. The next day we hopped around the corner to Partida bay, then continued up the sea to reach our destination of Isla San Francisco. From there we headed south, stopping for a bit at Isla Islote where T&A jumped off the boat and swam over to join the sea lions, while I slowly drifted around waiting for their return. We continued south and had a night at the largest bay in the area on the SE end of Espiritu.
From Espiritu we headed south to Los Muertos, then Los Frailes. We spent 2 nights at Los Frailes as we wanted to explore and visit the reef at Pulmo, which was just around the corner. On the first day we bought some Trigger fish on the beach from the local fishermen, they all seemed very friendly, yet on the next day I watched horrified as they cut the fins off a line of hammerhead sharks that lay dead on the beach. I think these go to make shark fin soup. I had heard the rest of the shark is discarded, but these bodies had been gutted and were later thrown onto the back of a pickup. I believe Mexico is one of the few places that still allows the catching of hammerhead sharks. I was quite shocked to see it for real. At first I was angry with the fishermen, but had to remind myself, these are very poor people, and this puts food on the table for their family, pays for medicine etc and it is legal. Hopefully the law will change soon.

We hitched a ride into Pulmo the next day, but the weather was rough and it didn’t look like diving on the reef would be possible. However we had a nice lunch there, Tim bought some wine and basic provisions.

Pulmo had a lovely property development of small low lying houses within a small grid system. I don’t think they have mains power in the village.

We spent the afternoon diving on the rocks in Los Frailes, which were more sheltered than Pulmo and saw some great fish.
From Los Frailes it was a short 6 hour hop to the Marina at San Jose del Cabo, where Asta would leave us for her flight home. On this last leg we had many whales visit us, or were making a bit of a show nearby. It was wonderful, and I will put up some of our video from that on my next post.

Boat canvas work.
I mentioned earlier that I had some boat jobs done. You can see the new spray dodger and mainsail lazy-jack cover. I had this work done in La Paz by Hector the canvas man. His work is very good.

Hector gave me a great price to redo all of the cushions in the boat, all I had to do was chose the material. I found a great fabric in a local store, however Kathy thought it was too black, she’s probably right, but I realised we werent going to be able to agree on a fabric over the internet, so that job will have to wait until Kathy gets out here.

Another job I tackled was fixing the Starboard water tank level gauge. It was not reading reliably, and we need this to be accurate. As I suspected the floating part of the gauge no longer floated , so a bit of foam was attached to it and it seems to work now. I need to buy a new gauge when I get a chance.

Coronavirus
By the time we had reached Cabo, the CoronaVirus issue had become a big deal for us. Tim’s flight home in 2 weeks time had been cancelled, and Asta’s connecting flight from London to Shannon, in Ireland had been cancelled. The world was shutting down around us and Tim was concerned.
Tim managed to get a flight with Air Canada that got him to Dublin via Toronto, and left yesterday (Wed 25th March), Asta got a new flight from Gatwick to Dublin and she left today, As I write this she is just passing over the Atlantic near Newfoundland. They may need to self isolate when they get home. My flight has not been cancelled yet, as it’s not until May, but I expect it will be cancelled at some point soon. My Visa expires the same day as my flight.
I could have found a way home this week, and still may, but I need to find a safe place to leave Sister Midnight. If I can’t get back for several months, we will be into the hurricane season, which starts in May and runs to November. I will need to spend time securing the boat for this eventuality.
Most of the Americans and Canadians here have left their boats and returned home while they can. The border to America is shut now, and in fact Mexicans are protesting that Americans are being allowed south. In this area it seems the virus was brought here by Americans.

I have been to the supermarket a few times now and as you can see from above, there’s plenty on offer. I’m not sure how long this will last. There’s plenty of toilet paper, but no hand sanitizer gel, or latex gloves.
I have enough food on the boat for a few weeks, but I do worry for the Mexicans here, many of them won’t be able to cope with a serious economic downturn. The area I’m in is totally tourist based, and they have all left now.
Many families just don’t have the money to stockpile anything, so many will die from malnutrition.

I plan to leave this expensive marina in a few days time, weather permitting and make an overnight passage to Mazatlan on the mainland, where there is a good cheap marina in an interesting old town. I may meet up with Mike from SV Ikigai there, and I might even see Brenda and Clay on SV Sansucchi, from there I will sail back to La Paz, or possibly Puerto Escondido and look for a safe place for my boat during the hurricane season.

Next week I will post some shots of the whales we encountered on our way south to take Tim & Asta to the airport.

Paul Collister

The trip back from Puerto Escondido to La Paz was a bit of a sleigh ride. For the first few days we had 15-20 knot winds from behind. The trip was fast. We stopped at El Gato, then Isla San Francisco, and finally at Caleta Lobos on the peninsula, just a few hours out of La Paz.
We fuelled up before setting off, but the engine barely ran at all and we arrived with a near full tank. We had used 100 litres on the trip north. So quite a saving with diesel at £1/litre

We motored into La Paz town around low water, especially low because of the spring tides, and we were shocked to see just how far out the sand banks came to the channel. People had walked out into the middle of what is normally a fast flowing estuary. It looked like fun, and reminded me of the fun times we had with the kids when you used to sail out to the West Hoyle sand bank and ground the boat as the tide went out and picnic on the pristine sand there.

It was good to tie up in Marina La Paz again, just a couple of slips up from where we first arrived back in December. We soon noticed a Sea Shepherd ship tied up at the end of the marina. They have been checking on water quality in the bay here, looking at plastic and pollution levels with the local authorities.
For those who don’t know, the Sea Shepherd organisation are doing great work in trying to protect the Vaquita porpoise in the sea of cortez. The were thought to be extinct here, but a few have been spotted. In an article from their website here they state..
“Sea Shepherd removes illegal gillnets from vaquita habitat to protect the mammal from getting ensnared in nets set to catch another endangered species, the totoaba fish.
Totoaba is targeted for its lucrative “buche” or swim bladder, which is trafficked and sold in black markets in Asia. The bladders are consumed in a soup believed to have beneficial health properties, despite lack of scientific evidence confirming such claims. “

La Paz was more sleepy than when I left, but also a bit warmer which was nice, especially as the UK was being battered by storms and flooding.

On Monday I hired a car and drove Jim to the airport at San Jose del Cabo. I must have caught a bit of food poisoning or a touch of corona virus. We did eat out the night before with Mike and his Californian girlfriend Shauna, but everyone else seemed ok, so I don’t know. either way it was a most uncomfortable ride to the airport, with lots of stops along the way. I drove back along the coast to Cabo San Lucas, and saw the non stop development of the coast with the construction of huge luxury hotels/spa resorts. There was barely an undeveloped spot along the whole stretch of 20km.

Back at the boat the next day I rested and started on my long list of tasks. The first was to replace my stolen visa. We replaced Kathy’s at the airport, it took 15 minutes at the immigration office. and was no big deal. La Paz Immigration was to be another story. It took 5 visits over two weeks, including an interview, a very rude bank clerk, and a few new friends from amongst the crowd seated in the waiting room at Immigration, where we all clung to our numbered ticket, waiting to be called. I spent so much time there the ladies behind the counter new me quite well and would just call out my name “Mr Paul” when I was needed. I now have my Visa, it still expires in May, I was going to ask them to add a couple of weeks to my permitted 180 days, as I had spent nearly two weeks with them!

On the spur of the moment I decided to replace the plywood panel that supports my instruments in the cockpit. It had started to delaminate and the last time I took it apart a large piece ripped off the back. Also it was looking tired and the speaker /thermometer and cigar lighter didnt work, so I figured I could remove them.

The plywood wasn’t the best quality, but it’s an improvement on what I had.
Next I had to find out why the lever on the head wasn’t staying in place. That turned out to be a spring not adjusted properly, so was an easy fix, however when I was doing that I noticed one of the head seacock pipe connections was badly corroded.

Having repaired the hose with 2 new clamps, next on the list was to book my PADI dive course, I popped down to Mike’s boat and we worked out a plan for fixing his two bilge pump problems, and while I was there at his marina I booked onto a PADI Open Water dive course, to start in ten days time. I have a massive theory book to read and understand before my first lesson, I’m a little excited about this, as it’s not that long ago in my mind that I was scared of going underwater and couldn’t even swim when I started the cruising life.

I keep seeing places here that I would love to own, This hotel california looks so classic mexican.

Today the La Paz carnival begins and runs until Monday. It’s mostly performances with lots of stages and stalls along 1 mile of the Malecon. Each day there is a big float parade. It reminds me of the festivals we visited in Barcelona, like the Festa Major de Gracia.

I will know more later as I’m now off to check out the fish tacos that are bound to be on offer, along with a couple of churros (basically long doughnuts) I hope.

I have just started making my own juices, it’s a healthy way to stay hydrated, tastes great and also is very cheap. I had no idea how easy it is to make real lemonade.

I’m going to be in La Paz docked for the next 4 weeks until Tim and Asta arrive, when we will hit the sea again. Hopefully I can finish all my boat jobs by then.

Paul Collister
20/02/2020

PS Apologies for the multiple notifications that were sent out about this blog post, I’m still struggling with the postie system.