Quick Update

I have found the location of the starting problem, it’s the starting relay, or the connector on it.

faulty-relay

This is not meant to reflect on the QA standards of Ireland at all 😉
I can’t work out which is faulty, the connector or the relay, as every time I unscrew it from its location to test it, the relay works fine, but once back in place it fails, I can’t get my multimeter onto the pins when it is in place, right at the rear of the engine by the gearbox. I suspect the connector more than the relay, but I will change both. Suffice it to say it’s working now, but I expect it will stop when next needed. Fortunately Car ownership 101 taught us how to start a car without the key, a basic Scouse right of passage, so I have kept a short length of wire near the starter. I’m off up the mast now, but wanted to share the following with you…

Congkak
I have seen a lot of lovely carved  wooden creations which I wondered what they were used for, now I have found out that they are for a game called Congkak.

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I have included the rules below should you want to try this one at home.

congack-game-rules

 

Paul C.

7 thoughts on “Quick Update”

    1. Yes, I’m sure you’re right, I hadn’t realised these relays are standard auto parts, as are the sockets , so should be able to pick something up easy enough.

  1. Hi Paul. I presume when you’re testing it, you’re connecting it to 12 volts and it’s closing correctly?

    Off the top of my head, I would guess that either the relay now needs more current than can be provided over the long length of cable due to some sort of corrosion (or gunk in there) or else the cable isn’t providing sufficient juice due to fraying cable strands or poor connectors along the route. Either way, replacement does seem to be the best option. Thankfully neither the connector nor the relay seem to be stamped with the dreaded “Marine” word, which translates into English as “three times the price for no particular reason…”

    Also, just because you’re not paranoid, doesn’t mean we Irish aren’t out to get you.

    The game instructions were written by the same crack team who wrote the operating and/or assembly instructions for various pieces of equipment I own. When you eventually figure it out, you fear that your neural pathways have been rewired, and not in a good way.

    1. Thanks Dermot, Yes the relay clicks, and the power to the coil is good, so it’s the switched side. I found that twisting the relay/wiring made the fault come and go, but the position of the relay means I have to lean over the front of the engine, practically lying on it, while Kathy starts it from the cockpit. On the positive front, it only needs to crank for milliseconds before it roars into life, on the negative front, that leaves me in a very precarious situation leaning over the front over the alternator belt and whirring wheels with the chances for any future little Collisters being seriously jepordised. Consequently, I’m happy to splash out the extra few pennies for both a relay and connector, the wire itself seems remarkably good and well protected.

      1. I meant to say, my trip up the mast was less productive, I’m putting 12v/0V into an twin core cable at the foot of the mast, but it’s not there 3/4 of the way up where it emerges for the steaming light. worse still, I suspect all the cables were tied together before being led into the mast, or are tightly jammed into a tube, as I can’t get any wiggle power to pull the cable out any at the steaming light position. This may need to wait until the mast comes down.

    1. I presume Google translate had a lot to do with the creation of those instructions. Have a look at congkak on google, it’s very popular, I’m thinking of getting a game for those long evenings at anchor in Fiji 🙂

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