Author: paulcollister

We checked into the Harbour Master, Immigration and Customs this morning, then we upped anchor and went to get fuel, however they didn’t have any. This was the main reason I went to Telaga yesterday, Oh well, we left at 12:00 and motored straight to Kuah, passed through a very large convoy of grey ships and their support vessels on the way, I wondered what the protocol was and if I would be asked to change course, but they didn’t care. Last night 4 fighter jets flew over us, in extremley close formation, very impressive. Kathy said ‘What’s Trump done now?’ which was kind of funny, and kind of worrying too. We managed to sail for the last hour went the wind changed from ahead to astern.
Now we are tied up in the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club. It’s nice to on a pontoon, plugged in to mains again. I can catch up on some of the jobs here. Mainly fixing the gear shift cable. we have good wifi here so hopefully I can upload some of the videos we took over our time in Thailand.

Paul Collister

So I’m writing this as we arrive in Malaysian waters, I don’t have a signal on my phone yet, so I don’t know if that’s because my PAYG contract has expired, or if I’m still too far away from land.

It’s been an interesting few days. We have spent the last 5 days cruising around the Butang islands. On Thursday morning we anchored off a lovely little island, maybe only a few hundred metres long, but surrounded by a stunning coral reef with lots of fish to look at. I have a lot of video waiting to be edited .

We didn’t actually anchor, the National park service here provides buoys, some more reliable than others, and we picked the first of the two there and spent the night swinging on that. The only real problem we had was the swell from the south built up overnight, there must have been some anomaly in the weather down in the Malacca straights that sent the swell our way, and by breakfast on Friday morning 8AM, it was so bad we had to hold on to things while brewing the coffee. I decided to head around the side of the island to pickup the other mooring buoy, protected from the swell. I checked on the chart, and we were well clear of the rocks/coral and should have 6 metres of water below us. Off we went, maybe doing 3-4 knots, and after just a few minutes CRUNCH, it was a very shocking moment, the whole boat stopped dead in its tracks, there was no doubt, we had hit a rock.

To put this event into context, it’s one of the worst things that can happen to a yacht. The result, depending on many factors, can range from, no damage, just minor scratching, to complete loss of the boat and loss of life. So that noise we heard, sent shivers down my spine. Fortunately it was clear we were in no personal danger, worst case, we could swim to the shore in lovely calm(ish) waters easily. Also the boat is very tough, unlike many yachts built today, ours uses a different style of construction. The keel is part of the hull, very thick and solid and won’t snap off, this would have been a real worry on a modern production boat. After a collision, it’s imperative to get the keels checked on these boats. So all I had to do really was get the boat off the rock.

Usually it should be possible to reverse and that’s it. however we were properly stuck on. No amount of reversing had any effect. Then the swell came and said hello, the boat was lifted a foot or so by a large rise in the sea level, then dropped back onto the rock. BANG, now that sent another shiver down my spine. It actually sounds and feels a lot worse than it is, but it does help focus ones thoughts to the task at hand. In a big sea, we have been thrown onto waves by the sea, and that makes a bigger bang.

The propellor seems more efficient going forward, but it’s counter intuitive to motor onto rocks, so I didn’t want to try that, going back didn’t work so I was a bit stuck. So I launch plan A, , to kedge myself off backwards, sounds rude, but basically it requires me to put my little anchor I keep at the stern of the boat in the water, say 50metres astern, and winch myself back towards it. I have done this on Oracle once in Greece, but we were in sand, it was very calm and we had all day to mess around. Now I had to move fast as the swell had us bumping again, though thankfully the first bump was the worst. Now this is were the plan turns to farce.

I untied the kedge anchor, and tried to hang it over the stern enough so I could get it into the dinghy which thankfully was tied up below, however the chain in the locker must have been snagging, or more likely had fallen on itself after I stowed it last year. I was tugging the chain like crazy to get it out when Kathy shouted out something about rocks from the bow were she was peering over. I left the anchor hanging over the pushpit (the rail around the stern of the boat) to see what she was saying, she was shouting out that she couldn’t see any rocks, so I had to investigate, possibly it was all a dream and I might wake up after seeing a spaceship rise from the water and Captain Kirk offer some help. Maybe not. I ran to the bow, and looking down to starboard I could see we had at least 5 metres of clear water below us, over the bow was clear as well, looking to port made me realise we were on the very edge of a large granite boulder. Now one of the things about Sister Midnight is that the propeller produces a large amount of prop walk, and it’s all to starboard when going ahead, this means that if I give it a surge of power ahead, from stationary, the boat instead of moving forwards, tries to swing hard to the right. This has got to be worth a try I thought. So back to the wheel, Hard to starboard, mucho revving, no revving, mucho revving, no revving, then WOW, we are off the rock. and moving away from it slowly. So where’s the farce you ask? Well just as we clear the rock, my kedge anchor cleared itself and went screaming over the stern and anchored itself to the very rock we were escaping! Bugger, I tried to grab the  chain/rope as it was shooting over the stern, but it was going too fast, and I didn’t want to slow my exit from the rock so I let it go. I could see the mooring buoy we had left, maybe 100 metres ahead of us, so I figured I should try to get back to that and work things out from there, however, would I have 100 metres of rope on the kedge, I couldn’t remember, and 100m seems a lot.

I shouted to Kathy to bring me large quantities of rope and a knife, plus a fender. I thought ‘plan A’ would be to cut the anchor warp, tie a fender to it as a buoy, and come back for it later, ‘plan B’, cut the line, tie more rope to it and keep going to the mooring until I ran out of rope. As it turned out, I had loads of rope on the warp, and we picked up our mooring buoy while still anchored by the stern to the rock. A kind of weird ‘med style’ mooring.

Next I jumped in the dinghy, and headed back to the rock and retrieved the kedge anchor and all was back to normal. As luck would have it, the water there was crystal clear, so I dived on the hull with my snorkel and could see deep scratches, possibly gouges in the surface of the keel along the bottom edge, I couldn’t see right under the keel, but expect the gelcoat to be cracked there. However that was all, above the bottom edge of the keel there was no damage I could see. I’m hauling out sometime in the next few months to refresh the antifoul, so will sort that out then.

I have since checked on the chart, I have my track recorded, onto and off the rock, and I can see that it’s meant to be safe water there, so I have learnt a valuable lesson about trusting charts close up to reefs.

That night we picked up another buoy, further north, protected from the swell opposite a monkey beach, where Kathy got quite freaked out when a few monkeys took over our dinghy and started going through the storage pockets playing with our sun tan and Deet, I had to shoo them away, but not before the Dad monkey tried to shoo me away.

We left there on Saturday and went back to Ko Lipe for our final night in Thailand, unfortunately it was a very noisy night at anchorage there, it’s a party beach with house music banging out. We anchored in 23 metres of water, and although the anchor seemed very secure, and the weather was very calm, I was woken about 2AM to the boat swaying and strong winds, on going above I found the wind to be very strong 20-30 knots and all the boats around me were swinging around a lot. Checking our anchor rode, of which we had all 110 metres out, I could see it was very taut, and this would be testing our anchor. I spent the next hour closely watching all the other boats and repeatedly taking bearings of objects on the shore and our relation to other boats, however when you have a swinging circle off 200+ mtrs in diameter, you can never be sure which way you are dragging, or if you are just swinging. After an hour or two, we hadn’t moved, our GPS was backing this up, another hour passed and about 5AM the wind passed on, leaving a very calm bay, I went to bed and slept well, only to be woken a few hours later by a bang. “Shit” was the first word I could think of saying as I flew from the bed, we had hit something, I knew that, I was just hoping it wasn’t land, that bay is fringed with very sharp jagged coral. I hoped it was another boat we hit. I’ve hit loads of them, never a big deal. Actually I t-boned a firefly dinghy with a big heavy clincker boat when I was about 13 in the sea cadets, that was a big deal 😉 As I came out into the cockpit, there was no mistaking the back of the Langkawi ferry that had moored right behind us at about midnight last night. He was on a fixed mooring, so it was safe to assume it was us who dragged, we had bumped against a big metal frame he had on his stern, I don’t know what it did, but it was a flat surface and hadn’t marked us at all. A few tugs on our anchor warp and we were away from him. It was now 7AM and Kathy was up, I asked her to flake the chain down, and I hauled in the anchor and we left. By now the crew on the ferry must have wondered what was going on and was walking around the ship looking for a problem.

I fail to understand how we stayed in position all night in the wind, then once it’s calm we dragged , maybe 150ft to the ferry. I suspect the current was strong when we dragged. On my new super powered boat computer system, all these elements, parameters and variables will be logged, providing real time playback analysis, until then, I’m going to practise anchoring 😉

We are now anchored in a little manmade lagoon area at Telaga, in Langkawi, Malaysia, I don’t have any 3g or phone service here, but I have managed to borrow some wifi data from the local hotel across the bay. It’s nice to be back in Malaysia, but we were greeted by thunder and lightning. We will sneak ashore tonight and have a meal to celebrate our arrival, in the morning, we check into the country officially, get fuel and head down to the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club marina, where I can fix the gearstick problem. Kathy returns to the UK a week tomorrow for a month.

Paul Collister

Just a very quick update to say we are about to leave Thai waters (and Thai 3g data range) and enter Malaysian territory. I’m not sure if my 3g will work on the old Malaysian phone SIM, so a quick post to say we may be quiet for a day or two.

However when back, I promise to post about our encounter with a very big rock that wasn’t where it should be, followed by our collision with a ferry this morning, It was exactly where it should be, our mistake there. All sounds much worse than it was, but I know Bob likes a good story, so stay tuned in.

Paul Collister

 

Alternate titles:
“Don’t Panic”
“If something’s going to break, then it will wait for the worst time”
“I really should have sorted that out earlier”

Yes we had a bit of a problem today, while Kathy was reversing on the anchor rode, to get it to really dig in, the morse cable snapped on the transmission meaning we were stuck in reverse, with not much we could do about it. But more on that later.

We spent Sunday and Monday on Ko Tarutao, a large island, which makes up the largest National park, and the first in Thailand, back in the 80’s I think. It’s a very beautiful spot, but unfortunately the wind has been unseasonal again, it’s meant to be from the NE but in fact has been blowing a steady 10 Knots from the West most of the time, this made our mooring very rolly and we couldn’t stop as long as we would have liked, so we took the dinghy up a large winding river inland and explored a very pretty river / creeks. I made a couple of videos, but until I get a proper wifi, they won’t get uploaded.

From Tarutao, we headed west into the wind and to a lovely little island called Ko Tanga, I think this is part of the Butang group, we were heading for Ko Lipe, a popular holiday island at the southern end of the Butangs, from here we can see Malaysia. All of the islands on the Butangs suffer from the same problem, the beaches are lovely, but go from very shallow to very deep in no time at all. In a boats length it can go from 8 meters deep to 20 metres deep. This make anchoring very difficult. So at Ko Tanga, we had to drop our anchor in 21 metres of water, This meant I had to lay out 60 metres of chain, then another 50 metres of rope, I haven’t done this before and was rather nervous, the previous night we were being rocked a lot, and although we were on a national park mooring I had fretted over how much the rope chaffed (rubbed) on the bobstay and fittings. Now the rope could chafe and if it snapped, not only do we get washed onto the very rocky shore, but I also lose a very expensive anchor.
Anyway, the wind was very light and all was fine, with no chafe to worry about. I am going to put a plastic tube on the bobstay now to help, I didn’t want to, as they look so ugly, but I need to sleep at night.

Ko Tanga, has this arch on one of its islets, you are meant to walk through it with your partner to ensure everlasting something or other, people were actually doing it too! (Eat your heart out Malta)

We left Tanga early, it’s lovely and cool at 7am and the 2-3 hour trip to Lipe was easy into a headwind of about 5 knots. However when we arrived we found the same problem with a very deep shoreline, no chance of getting close in as the day tripper boats had laid moorings everywhere decent. We spotted a national parks mooring buoy, and tied to that, we were just getting the ropes tidied up and about to turn the engine off when a dinghy came speeding to us, it was an Australian skipper who was keen to point out that there was no connection between the mooring buoy and the sea bed, just a rope catching in the rocks, and that he had almost ran aground yesterday when he tied to it. We were very lucky, as it looked great when we tied to it, we might well have gone below for a drink and not realised we were dragging to the shore! You learn something every day in this game. So off we trekked again, looking for somewhere not too deep to anchor, eventually we had to settle on a spot 23 metres deep, this is getting serious, we anchored, let out 110 metres of chain and rope, but by the time the anchor had set (got stuck in to the ground) we were too close to another boat, so we had to pull it all back in and start again. Second time we seemed to be doing well, the anchor was holding, we seemed to be in a good spot when Kathy declared the gearstick was flopping around doing nothing. I waggled it and it seemed to be disconnected, so either it had come lose at one end or the other, or it had snapped. These cables are like big versions of the brake cable on a bike, they often fail, and just a few days ago I noticed the gearstick was quite stiff and I was wondering whether it had always been stiff, or if it might be getting old. I have had very bad luck with these cables breaking on me, so I was thinking I really need to sort them out, or at least carry a spare. So a quick ripping apart of the steering binacle, were the gear and throttle controls live and the cable is attached to the gearstick lever, so into the engine, upside down, head first, as Kathy waggles the gearstick, no sign of life, noise, twitching or anything in fact, so that means cable broken. We are now swinging on 110 metres of cable, in a 10 knot wind, not 100% sure we are dug in properly. I like to reverse with a lot of revs for a few seconds to make sure the anchor is fully set, and I’m wondering what the correct procedure is for such a situation. We can’t go anywhere, but I have a few more anchors I could throw over, I could force it into ahead on the gearbox, and we could motor out, I think. By the time I have gone through all these thought, I realise we are holding well, the forecast is for the wind to drop now for a couple of days, so I decide to stay put and try to fix the problem. So apart comes the binacle, fully, the throttle cable has to come off now, that makes my means of escape harder, but when I realise I also have to take the steering chain off the wheel to get access to the broken cable, I sit down and have another think. No steering, gear or throttle, in a crowded anchorage! I fit the emergency tiller, and realise I can control the throttle with a pair of pliers once the cable is out, so off we go. 3 Hours later, I have it all back together, minus the gearstick cable, which now sticks out of a locker, and has a new control lever. Pic below.

Kathy wants the old control back, I quite like the new one, but it’s going to make the marina entrance more interesting. I’m hoping I will be able to pick up the cable in Langkawi when we get there. Kathy likes it here so much she wants to stay for a few days. They have lots of shops, bars, bakeries and book shops!

It’s bed time now, we had a lovely dinner ashore, the boat stayed just where we left it, but I have just been up and checked everything, the tide has turned and of course with 100 metres of anchor warp out, we have moved 200 metres to the other side of the bay, unfortunately, the guy next to us, has a much shorter warp out so didn’t move away that much, if he gets much closer I will be able to step aboard his boat and wake him. However his short warp might mean he drags away from me anyway.

Just a couple more years and I might get the hang of this boating thing.

Paul Collister

We are working our way south, and seem to be encountering some very nice beach resorts on the way.We came to this island, Ko Muk, mainly to see “The Emerald Cave” which is actually a hong, accessible via an 80 metre long tunnel. Normally you have to swim in, but we were lucky to catch the tides right and get in with the dinghy.

Once in it was quite spectacular, a lovely sandy beach with trees growing all up the vertical walls. The Emerald bit was lost on me, must be my colour blindness, but Kathy understood.

I made a short vid of the trip.

 

Later we sat on the beach and watched the sun set behind sister Midnight. I was hoping the other beach goers taking pictures were thinking, ‘how lovely to see the sun set behind such a classic stylish yacht’, but they were probably thinking, ‘shame about the yacht getting in the way!.

Tomorrow, Saturday, we head for Koh Nok, a three hour sail I hope, then on Sunday a 6-8 hour sail to the Butang island group, and the island of Ko Lipe, for a few days, then a day sail into N Langkawi, Malaysia.

Paul Collister

 

 

Not really, but we did do some practising.

We left Phi Phi Le, the setting of “The Beach Movie” on Monday 6th, I was glad to be away, a lovely location, but totally spoilt by the hordes of visitors, in contrast, we arrived at Ko Yum, a 4 hour motor away to find deserted beaches, with very tasteful resort chalet nestled in the trees. We like it here so much we have decided to stay a few days, before sailing south. The wind has gone away this week, 5 knots, and we are anchored just off a lovely beach in 5 mtrs of water.
I have been doing boat chores, and today I rigged up the danbuoy and lifebuoy in their designated spots at the stern of the boat. I manufactured holders for the danbuoy from plastic piping bits I bought in the hardware superstore. These are devices that are thrown to a man overboard to help in his survival and recovery. The danbuoy is basically a floating flagpole with a flag and light on the top, however ours is without the light at present. The lifebuoy is what you grab hold of to stay afloat, that comes with a very modern flashing light, automatically activated when it hits water.
So once it was all fitted in an easily accessable spot, I threw myself over the back of the boat shouting “Man Overboard” and waiting in the icy treacherous waters for help 😉
Kathy chucked the lot over and I was saved. Let’s hope we never need to do that for real.

Kathy loves the ramshackle beach bars here, it’s a very chilled spot.

Tomorrow, a short hop down the coast to Ko Lanta, then a larger hop down to Ko Tarutao and the Butang group of islands.

 

Paul Collister

Yes it continues, lovely unspoilt beaches, crystal clear waters, relaxing sails, blah blah blah. Nothing really exciting to report.

We spent Thursday in Phuket town, checking out and picking up spares for the trip, we restocked at a few stores on food and drink, and went to immigration, Harbour Master and Customs to check out. Back to the boat, and a very low spring tide, so everything was exactly the same as the last time we loaded up the boat bringing the trolley down a very steep ramp to the pontoons, however this time I stayed out of the water. One thing I realised, is that as I fell backwards into the water, I pulled on the trolley to try to stop myself falling, and that’s what helped bring it onto my head. I should have pushed it away from me, that way I would just have got wet and the trolley may have stayed ashore. I wonder how fast your brain would have to work to suss that out in the split second you have. Obviously faster than my old grey matter.

So Friday morning we left early on slack water, 3 hours before high tide, and headed off to Ko Yao, a big island with a few villages and had a lovely overnight stop, Saturday we left early without going ashore and continued straight on to Phi Phi Dom, arriving an hour or two before sunset.

We were lucky to pick up a mooring buoy here, as anchoring is difficult, the waters very deep off the coast, and is sandy, which isn’t the best for anchors, they prefer mud. also as the water gets shallow, there is lots of coral you could damage, or even get your anchor stuck under. I have a system ready to deploy when I drop they anchor, that will allow me to get a stuck anchor out, but I haven’t tried it yet.

We are here primarily so Kathy can visit ‘The Beach’. If you don’t know what ‘The Beach’ is , then you’re probably not a Leanordo fan. It’s going to be very crowded, but it has to be done. Later today I hope we can scoot across the rest of phang Nga bay to Ko Yum, just off the mainland Thai coast where we continue our journey south to Malaysia.

I have some good footage of fish I shot yesterday with the goPro, will try to edit that up.

As far as our position goes, there is little AIS coverage on the internety around here, but I self report to Marine Traffic via my mobile phone each day and on passage. If you want the latest position, check us out here.

AIS Position details here

The Autohelm is behaving well since I fixed the rudder feedback, so fingers crossed. Everything else is working well. so All’s good here in Paradise 😉

 

 

Friday and we left Pan Yi just as the day trippers started arriving around 11 and decided to have lunch at Ko Khai as Kathy believed there was a good hong there. From there we would travel south to Ko Phanak, the island we started this trip around the bay from a few weeks ago.

Above you can see the route we took. Below I have zoomed in on a section not long after we left Pan Yi. You can see the course goes off in a swinging sine wave motion.

This is caused by the Auto-helm throwing a wobbly, It’s been doing this randomly for a while now and I have no idea why. It can be quite unnerving depending on where you are, and very annoying if beating with the sails close hauled and it causes you to tack and back the sails. The only thing that was a clue was the ERROR 67 that flashed on the screen every now and then, this error indicates the rudder feedback is missing. The unit should operate without feedback, just not as well. Anyway, as it was such a calm day, I thought I would investigate, and sure enough the weight of the cable loom in the rudder area had pulled a wire off the sensor connector block. An easy repair, the harness secured better and no more error 67. I also had no more wild course changes, but that may just be a fluke.

With that fixed we arrived at the Ko. It’s only a small island but it turned out to have an exquisite little hong, easy to access by dinghy.

There’s a little video here. Don’t poke fun at me leaving the sail up. For non yachties, it’s a bit like leaving your engine running with the keys in the ignition and the door open on the exit ramp of a multi storey car park, oh, and with an iffy handbrake. What could possibly go wrong. In actual fact there wasn’t a whisper of wind at all for a few hours around then.

Today we had a great trip into a long tunnel at Phanak, we forgot the torches, so that was fun. more on that later. No we are off to the Yacht Haven anchorage, then chilling, restock, and exit via immigration/harbour master early next week.

 

Paul Collister

 

We left Krabi Boat lagoon (Marina) on Monday morning, the tide was very weird, I thought we would leave an hour later than high water the day before, tides advance by about an hour each day, but was shocked to find High water was about 5 hours later than the previous day. I wish I had time to work out what was going on. There was about ten hours between low and high water, instead of the normal six. The end result was the earliest we could leave was about 16:00 on a not very high tide, I was a little concerned, but the marina manager, Ben, who was most helpful during our stay, was confident we would make it, and it was on a rising tide anyway. So we left, I’m hoping there is a little timelapse of us leaving the pontoon below. The marina was lovely and I’m looking forward to returning one day.

With us only having 2-3 hours before dark, we couldn’t go too far and planned to anchor nearby, but once we cleared the mud flats, we had an hour of daylight left, just enough to reach the small island of Ko Dam Hok, a protective anchorage for all winds, just as the sun would be setting. When we arrived we saw a load of big mooring buoys, so we picked up one and called it  a day.

Tuesday and off to Ko Hong, the Krabi one, there’s another Ko Hong to the west. After a slowish sail we again found another lovely mooring buoy awaited us, here the water was so clear I took the GoPro with me for a swim. You can see the video below I hope, uploads of hundreds of megabytes take a while on a throttled 3g phone connection. You can just see some things, I’m calling them jellyfish, but they are just translucent bubbly alien looking creatures that float past me. I think they might explain some of the stings I have, one quite bad.

Ko Hong has a big hong, we dinghied in easily and then I rowed around, all day scores of day tripper boats had been ferrying holiday makers around, but we waited until later when they had all left. One other yachtie was motoring around in his dinghy, but once he left we had it to ourselves, and it was lovely and peaceful, a big hong, but at the current mid tide it had about 3ft of water in the middle, it was about the size of half a football field. the peace lasted just a moment, when a motor cruiser steamed in, full of screeching people with music blasting out. they anchored, and jumped into the water, screeching, shouting and singing along with the eurotrashy music that was blasting out and echoing around the hong. Kathy and I put on our best BBC “Disgusted of Cheshire” expressions, how very dare they! So we rowed on, our evil stares at them had no effect.
Wednesday we left at a leisurely pace, hoisted the sails and headed back to the middle of the bay. I had wanted to cut through the gap between Ko Yao Noi & Yai, stopping at a village there, but the pilot book recommends we need 2.5 metres of tide and we only had 2, so that plan was scrapped, I went back to the north of the island group and we headed for Ko Roi, which has an amazing Hong, accessible by a small cave like entrance. This Hong was the most amazing so far, massive inside, and populated with a huge bat colony.Kathy loved it and will no doubt write more about it. Pics below.
You can just see the entrance to the hong in the very centre of the picture. The hong is basically the whole of the inside of the island!

A small vid of the entrance

 

 

Inside is the harry potter forest of replicas

Looking out from the entrance

 

I also have a video clip of the bats here

Thursday we left early, partly because two huge catamarans turned up late last night, full of Russians, they’re not quite as reserved as us Brits, and they were here to party. They also liked to play their music loud, they anchored either side of us, just a little ahead, and spent a lot of time shouting between the two boats, when not jumping into the water. So by 08:30, we were off heading north to the small fishing village of Ko Panyi, this is an interested place, with a fascinating background, but Kathy will cover the detail, from my point of view, I loved how they had built a village on sticks clinging to the side of a big vertical walled island.  We arrived at about 11:30 just as 50 million tourists were brought here by long tail boats to feast on fresh fish, grown (not caught) in lots of fish farm nets all around the village. We are anchored right next to a large one. We went over to the village and waked around, what was once a self sufficient fishing community, has now become a tourist hot spot with many restaurants built onto the waterfront just to service the visitors. It’s been here a long time, and the sticks have mostly been replaced with concrete piles. While we were looking for somewhere to eat, much harder from the village inside than from the waterfront, only accessible by boat, a bit of a squall built up and I worried if we would drag, so we popped back to the boat, crossing a rougher river now.

The village from a distance

The kids here liked my dinghy, Scouse kids would have had a few bob off me by now to ‘look after my boat’ 😉

 

No land for a footie pitch, not a problem, but a slightly flawed plan if you ask me.

The local barber

Sister Midnight still there.

Tomorrow we head south, should make a fast passage with the wind behind us. Slowly working our way back to the Yacht Haven marina, then to check out of Thailand next week and head back south to Malaysia.

So Friday morning arrived and the wind had calmed and it was now a lovely hot morning. The constant buzz of long tails racing back and forth was a bit irritating so I phoned the Krabi boat lagoon to see if they had a berth, and I was advised to be at the entrance at 12:30 in order to get over the sand banks that surround the estuary entrance. So we had a slow breakfast while I worked out a route to get to the marina, however a quick estimate showed me it was 3 hours away and it was already 9. So up with the anchor and off, if we got there too late we would risk going aground. As we left Ao Nang bay, (Ao actually means bay, so that reads bay Nang bay) we hit some headwinds and the sea was still a bit rough, our speed dropped and I had to motor at max revs to get there on time. The marina is located in the mangroves some distance up a river, off another river, but before that there is a very shallow bay/estuary to cross. We had to motor very slowly over the sandbanks, most of the time in 3 metres of water. Once we were in the river it improved to 4 metres and everything was easy then

The marina is very quiet, situated in the mangroves and surrounded by salt pans, just down the road is a little fishing village, village might be overkill, about ten houses and some makeshift jetties, all on wooden sticks.

Once we had settled in we organised a car and went off to explore the area. It’s about 30 minutes drive from here to Krabi town, typically Thai, with markets and stalls. The river is very beautiful, and we drove on to a secluded beach another 30 mins past the main resort area. It’s a strange place, it seems most of the best beaches are only accessible by boat, many have hotels and resort complexes, all supplied by boat.

From a pleasant lunch at the beach we spent the evening in Krabi town, looking at the various stalls and picking up some fresh fruit.

I had to buy some new distance spectacles on account of my advanced forward planning strategy. Basically in the event of an afterlife existing, I figure Davy Jones will be involved, so I have sent a few items on ahead. I’m hoping to be reunited with them later, as I’m not sure if they have opticians, or a spannerworld in the afterlife. I know I’m going to be OK for caps, and now I definitely should be fine for specs after sending my last pair over the side last week!! So it was interesting going to an opticians to get an eye test when she didn’t speak any English. It all went well, I saw her on Saturday afternoon, and collected my new specs on Sunday morning, at a reasonable price too.

After collecting the specs, we went off to a hot water spring spa, that was very pleasant, a series of pools where very hot water cascaded down the hill passing through the various pools, each pool a little cooler, or should I say , less scalding, than the one feeding it. The first pool was stated to be 49deg C, too hot for me. I did like the 39 deg one, and spent some time relaxing in that.

Back on the boat now and we have a new neighbour who arrived while we were out, a Cabo Rico 38, this is a classic boat, very much in the style of a Baba, but a bit more classic looking, with a very fancy bit of scrollwork at the bow.

So Keith, the owner, and I discussed varnish, as you do, then we went for dinner at the marina (me and Kathy, that is)

Tomorrow we cast off our lines and head out back to sea. Ko Yao being our first destination, but because the high water tide is now a couple of hours later than when we arrived, and not as high, we won’t get out of here till after 2 pm and may have to anchor somewhere locally for the night. We want to be back in Phuket, no later than next weekend as our visas expire soon and we have to get sailing south to Malaysia.

Paul Collister