The Setouchi Rally

The welcome briefing for the Setouchi Rally was at 3pm, so we explored our new surroundings on the bikes after lunch. Yuge is a pretty, sedate and quiet coastal town so very similar in appearance to rural seaside villages in Britain it was uncanny. The major difference is the lack of people and traffic, which made for great cycling. The beach we came upon was deserted and we sat soaking up the sun for a while and took a few pictures.

The first task for the participants had been told to us in advance via email. We were all to introduce ourselves in both English and Japanese. Knowing that we wouldn’t be able to memorise the Japanese part, I had written out a crib sheet for us to read out, and we had practised voicing the unfamiliar words for a few days beforehand. The briefing was at a venue just across the road from the sea station. From the 8 boats who were taking part, there were about 25 people; a mix of Australian, Japanese, Canadian and British. After a brief introduction and overview of the rally from KC, the organiser, the introductions began. We were first up, which was just as well, not least because I didn’t have long to be nervous about it all and bottle out. I read my one sentence introduction in Japanese, said the same in English and sat down to polite applause. Paul did the same but elaborated about the boat and our plans in English. After that, I felt put to shame by how much other people said in both languages. If we were being marked for performance there would have been a definite ‘more effort required’ admonishment. However, they all seemed like a friendly bunch, especially when we went back for the welcome party at 6pm where food and drink had been laid on for us all.   This would be the first of many parties where I couldn’t eat much of what was on offer. That isn’t a complaint, and it was always an impressive array if you like meat and fish. I knew it would be the case so I always ate before or after the events, and naturally never refused alcohol 😉 Other people find it more of a problem, and ‘worry’ about why I’m not eating, which in turn leads to a discussion about vegetarianism and so on and so on that I really could do without. We have, however, found a good phrase that usually brings a smile and a change of subject: ‘I’m veggie so Paul has my share of the food – he is teetotal so I have his share of the drink’.

On Saturday May 12th the first events took place. We all gathered at the venue and were introduced to the students we’d be taking out on our boats. From the local college, they were friendly and excited about the trip. We had three young ladies allocated to us, to Paul’s great delight (the much-posted picture shows it). It was a good morning, actually. The girls loved being out on the water and showed lots of interest in the workings of the boat. It was perfect weather for being out motoring around the bay. They loved going under the bridge, especially when they spotted their teacher on it, directly above us taking pictures.

After a short break we set off for the second event: a barbecue in a park. The students would be cooking lunch for the rally people alongside a beach a short walk away from the sea station. Luckily it was a warm, sunny day and they were able to cook and serve the food to us on the outside tables that had been set up. I was touched by their thoughtfulness when they found out I didn’t eat sausages and burgers and fish; they prepared some vegetables for me that they cooked on a separate grill. Plenty of beer, wine and soft drinks were provided too. We sat with a group of Australians who had joined a Japanese motor cruiser for the duration of the rally.

The Australian ladies explained the next event to me during the course of the lunch. Japan is famous for its onsens, and most guide books and sites recommend it as a ‘must do’ experience. The little I knew about them I’d interpreted as a hot spring/spa/Turkish bath type of thing. I had misgivings even then because hot, steamy environments make me claustrophobic but I was determined to at least try. After the detailed description conveyed to me at lunch I almost bottled out and went back to the boat. I tend to avoid anything with long, convoluted instructions and rules. The dos and don’ts for an onsen are staggering. Here’s a general idea of the most important factors – taken from guide books and sites explaining the procedure:

It’s known as ‘naked socialising’; bathing with strangers is supposed to break down barriers. However, when a foreigner visits for the first time he or she is presented with a minefield of potential faux-pas and embarrassment unless the rules are adhered to. Shoes must be removed after paying at reception. In the baths that are segregated the entrances are draped with curtains bearing the gender in Japanese characters (wait for a local if unsure which curtain to enter). Place shoes in a locker, then take all your clothes off and place in a separate locker or basket. Make your way to the washing area. This takes the form of either a shower or sinks with chairs where you can sit and pour jugs of hot water over yourself. Here you must scrub every inch of your body and rinse well because entering the shared baths bearing traces of soap or dirt is considered extremely offensive. Submerge yourself in the springs au naturel; swimwear is a no-no for the authentic experience. Sit and relax in the baths of various temperatures and afterwards repeat the scrubbing thoroughly before exiting (health and safety).

Yikes to most of that, I thought.

However, it was a long and boozy lunch so I had sufficient Dutch courage to fortify me as we walked to the health spa. I should have heeded my misgivings. I won’t disparage the procedure because it’s obviously popular and supposedly relaxing but it just wasn’t for me. I lasted less than five minutes in there before the heat and steam drove me out to the cool of the waiting area where I sat admiring the view and reading while I waited for Paul. At least I can say I gave it a try.

A bike ride was on the agenda for the following morning but it was called off due to the heavy rain. At the briefing, KC told us that the second onsen would, however, go ahead later that day. Paul surprised me by saying he would pass on it. I had already decided to sit it out but had expected him to go along. He explained that one plunge hot bath over a weekend was enough – we had plenty of hot water on board for a shower. The students were around all weekend and after they returned from the onsen, they gave out the famous Japanese lunch boxes to everyone, along with beer, tee shirts and badges.

The next part of the rally would resume the following Saturday in the town of Nio, so we were free to do as we pleased until then. One of the first things Paul got on with was fixing the boat’s heater. It took him a whole afternoon but he did it, and it warmed the boat up wonderfully on the chilliest evening we’d had so far.

Most of the other rally boats had left Port Yuge by Monday. We decided to stay on for a few days. One afternoon we went for a long bike ride around the whole island. We had to push the bikes up the steepest parts but the views were fantastic; all the rain and cloud from the previous day had disappeared to leave clear blue skies. The roads, streets and beaches we passed were largely deserted. There are no bars, cafes or convenience stores in the town and just one restaurant. Two supermarkets serve the island, and they were never crowded. All those factors, after the weekend burst of activity from the rally made the town seem even quieter. Nice for a short stay but a bit too quiet for me.

The town of Haru lies opposite the span of water separating it from Yuge. Paul had visited it in Ken and Belinda’s dinghy from Catamaran Free Spirit to see what the chandlery had to offer, and suggested we take a bike ride there across the bridges.  The views from the bridges were worth the strain on the legs from the steep parts, as was the exhilarating descent downhill. We had to get the ferry for the very short ride across the water; I think it lasted less than two minutes but they just go back and forth all day so it’s a very efficient and regular service. Haru was another charming ‘Northern Scottish’ coastal town. A little livelier than Yuge, it even had a couple of cafes and shops that were open.

By Thursday 17th May we were the only boat from the rally left at Yuge, and found ourselves among several Japanese yachts now using the sea station. One captain got chatting with Paul about respective plans and proved to be an enormous help. He recommended a yacht club for our post-rally journey that was one of the highlights of our Japan stay, and also gifted us a bottle of Saki. The kindness of people continues to touch us the longer we are here. The boat’s stainless steel had a good cleaning over the next couple of days; an ongoing task made easier, or at least more pleasurable for me by listening to books while doing it.

The next port of call on the rally was Nio, and we were up early on Saturday 19th May for the journey there. It took five hours, the only slightly stressful part being the crossing of a busy shipping lane. We’re getting used to those now though. We were the first to arrive at the marina and watched the other yachts arrive gradually during the course of the afternoon. The staff at Nio deemed it appropriate to play Kool and the Gang’s ‘Celebration’ on a loop for an over an hour, presumably as a welcome to us.  I could quite happily have sabotaged the music system after 15 minutes of it, however. The 5 30 briefing took place on the storey above the marina office. I had my first taste of Saki there, courtesy of the bus driver who would be driving us to the following day’s picnic venue. He had a huge bottle of it and was going around filling glasses. One sip was enough for me to know I would never touch the stuff again. Luckily there was plenty of wine, and Paul was happy to have my share of the food.

Later at the party, we were befriended by a lovely Japanese artist and her student daughter and chatted to them most of the evening, along with a Japanese carpenter and his wife who have a boat in the marina. The entertainment took the form of various dances with an Hawaiian theme, which were wonderfully performed using the undulating arm movements so popular in Asian dance. Paul did the speech on behalf of Sister Midnight. These speeches would be a regular event at the end of each party, along with the ‘final clap’ which signified the end of the celebrations. There would be an announcement, a countdown, and then we all clapped our hands together to create a loud noise  😉

That night we ended up with six Japanese guests on the boat. They were the carpenter and his wife, an organic farmer, an engineer and some friends of the farmer. One of them brought his home grown cooked broad beans which were delicious as a snack. We managed to converse with each other for two hours using their impressive English, Paul’s laptop, mobile phone photos, maps and facial expressions.

Sunday May 20th was the picnic excursion to Mount Shiude. Boarding the bus had the feel of a school outing, or a coach trip where you are all ushered onto the bus at the appointed time, and once seated a head count is taken. As its name suggests, Mount Shiude sits 300 metres above sea level so the bus climbed its way around steep winding roads, with stunning views across the bay during the half hour drive. We were bound for Shiue’s summit, which required a 20 minute walk up from the car park and thankfully wasn’t too strenuous, even in the heat. The lookout point, when we reached it gave us a spectacular view of numerous islands dotting the sea on one side and an island-less sea on the other. Lunchbox picnics were handed out after we’d had our fill of looking and photo-taking, and we all dispersed to eat (I’d brought my own lunch) before walking back down for the bus back at 12 45.

Back at the boat we found a bag of organic produce (pictured) had been left in the cockpit as a thank you from the farmer we’d chatted with the night before; another kind gesture and one which we were sorry to have missed receiving in person.

As it was such a nice day we went for a bike ride late afternoon and photographed more shrines, statues and the usual beautifully cultivated trees.  Next on our agenda in a break from rally events, was an island said to be inhabited mostly by cats!

Kathy