It was free time sailing until Thursday 24th and after a conversation with the wife of the farmer the other night I was keen to visit Sanagi, an island famous for its cats (she also told me about a rabbit island but I thought Paul might baulk at that). It was only a short journey so we left at 11 30. Unfortunately, once underway the pungent aroma of sulphur wafted over from the quarter berth and we had to empty it out again to disconnect another battery. We arrived at Sanagi mid-afternoon and tied to a wall, watched by one solitary cat. A man came over shortly after and told us we could tie to the jetty where the ferry comes in. This was a much better position and I couldn’t wait to get ashore. I had spotted more cats approaching the jetty as we sorted our lines as if word had got out strangers were in town. Cats outnumber people here, and it was no surprise to find the town deserted. There were plenty of houses (several of which were shuttered up) and well-tended gardens but we met few people on our walk. It was a charming ghost town, as if most of the residents had decided to leave en masse one day. The ferry brings visitors over at regular intervals and they bring food for the cats, who also get cared for by the island’s few remaining residents.
We spent three days there and loved it. It was a peaceful and tranquil haven with hardly any traffic or other noise pollution. We got used to the coming and going of the ferry, and the captain always greeted us if we were around as he docked. Some of the islanders came to meet ferry passengers who were bringing provisions and loaded them into vans. The one small shop we saw was closed the whole time we were there, so it could be that the island has a ‘season’ when the shuttered houses are opened to be used as holiday accommodation. When the last ferry of the day had left, taking the day trippers back, it felt good to know it was just us, the islanders and the cats who remained to spend the night there.
The cats were healthy (apart from a few who sported battle scars) and pretty much had the run of the place. They were friendly and let us stroke them (I fell for a handsome ginger one but Paul said no to my request to bring it on board ;)). Most trotted out from gardens, temples or side streets when they heard us approaching and were vocal in their acknowledgment of us. We hadn’t thought to bring any food for them but Paul left some of the fish he’d had for dinner out on the jetty for them one evening. Naturally I took lots of pictures and they’ve been posted on Facebook as well as on Paul’s blog so I won’t overload this one, but here are just a few more of our time on Sanagi and the day trip we took on the ferry to Tadotsu in the rain.
We bid farewell to Sanagi on May 24th for an early departure to the next rally port of Bella Vista. There was an anxious time during the journey when the autohelm stopped working. As with many things, you only realise what a boon it is when it’s no longer an option. Hand steering is very tiring for hours at a time and my heart sank at the prospect. Thankfully Paul managed to effect a temporary repair after an hour of trying various solutions (he always does, determined as he is not to let anything beat him). We arrived at Bella Vista at lunchtime, helped in by KC and a few others. It’s a fairly industrial environment but the sea station was nice enough. The welcome dinner that evening was a more formal affair than the previous gatherings. Tables were laid for a sit down meal and a jazz band was playing.
The food kept coming; dish after fishy and meaty dish of it. The wine kept coming too, though and I had slightly more than my own and Paul’s share that evening. Not enough to join Paul for the end of evening speech though. Paul even joined in with a group performance of Rod Stewart’s ‘Sailing’ at the evening’s finale (no video footage unfortunately).
I’m sure I wasn’t the only one with a slightly sore head the next day for the morning trip to a Zen temple. It was a beautiful day for it – like one of the best summer days when it’s not too oppressively hot, just clear, warm and bright. Once again we gathered to get the bus for 9 45 precisely for the short journey to Shinshoji Temple. We were driven through a mountainous, picturesque landscape that reminded me of Alpine villages, especially with the profusion of pretty Japanese houses that looked so much like chalets. A robed Buddhist priest greeted us at the main gate when we got off the bus. He introduced himself as a German who had been living in Japan for 17 years, and went on to tell us he would be showing us around, would give us a short introductory course on the practise and principles of Zah Zen meditation and would preside over a tea ceremony experience. He led us into the campus and we were confronted with the sight of the most beautiful gardens I have ever seen. They looked just like the ones depicted in the Chinese willow pattern design, with bridges over a river, pagodas, gorgeous trees and colourful flowers.
The meditation pavilion took some getting into. First we had to take our shoes off and put some clogs on, which once on should not touch the grass. We formed an orderly line and as instructed, when we reached the door, put our hands together near our chests, bowed once before entering the room – left foot first – and then bowed again once inside. Once we were all sitting on the futons, the priest told us about the history and meaning of Zen meditation before we had a go at it. The rules and requirements for it to work came thick and fast: back straight, legs crossed, arms folded, count breaths, focus eyes on one spot, empty the mind, and so on. I can’t empty my mind, or sit still for very long either so I knew this wouldn’t be for me. Paul says it’s because I give up too easily but I feel that time sitting like that for hours on end is time wasted. The priest told us he had to go through pain barriers for his limbs to get used to the inertia of up to 17 hours in one position, and I thought ‘why would you do that!’ He also explained that there is an option for you to signal if you feel you are losing focus and a priest will beat you over the shoulders to ‘bring you back into line’. We all fell silent for our 5 minute session and I felt the urge to giggle within a minute – along with the urge to fidget. Clearly, being told to be silent and still ignites the need to make noise and move in me. The priest moved around us correcting our postures, and striking those who opted for the stick-beating part.
In all fairness, he was a lovely guy who answered lots of questions we put to him, and I found myself envying the ‘high’ he obviously got from the whole way of life he was devoted to. It was time for lunch after that and inside that venue, I had the first experience of sitting on the floor dining that Japanese restaurants are known for. Given the Buddhist setting I was pleased to see that the meal wasn’t completely meat and fish-based. Masa, the owner of yacht ‘Bunny’, sat with us and explained what was what. We were treated to ‘tofu miso soup’ and a variety of other traditional dishes including some that I could, for once, sample with the help of Masa’s explanations. His English was good, and his voice was as deep and rich as Morgan Freeman’s.
We were split into two groups after this (Japanese and English-speaking). One group would go to the tea ceremony venue, and the other to the light show at the art pavilion and then we would swap.
Our German priest escorted us to the building for the tea ceremony and once inside we sat against the wall while he explained the history of the ritual. Apparently it’s not about the tea (which is just as well because its taste is quite bitter). The emphasis lies in the protocol, ritual and calming atmosphere associated with the preparation. Certainly, the graceful movements of the two young men dressed in flowing black robes who set about serving us conveyed an air of ceremony. They brought us a cake, bowing to each of us as they placed the plate in front of us. The sweetness of the cake is to combat the bitterness of the tea – which was served next with more bowing and whispered greetings. It was all very interesting but I don’t think any one of us finished our drink, and a fair few cakes had only one bite out of them.
The light show we saw after that is best described as an ambient 20 minutes in a pitch dark room sitting before an infinity pool while lights ‘drop’ onto it. I have to admit it was relaxing, especially with the Brian Eno-like sounds and the huge Art Pavilion it took place in was impressive. It’s described as a ship-shaped building clad in traditional wooden shingles which appears to float over the landscape. The pic below gives a general idea (I was unable to edit it into an upright position on my mobile ?)
The final part of the rally took place in Onomichi, a short distance from Bella Vista. The evening party there was an outdoor buffet consisting of an impressive array of food and the usual wine and beer. Two ladies sang jazz, blues and easy listening songs and we all played a game of Bingo. The evening finished with another group rendition of ‘Sailing’ (lyrics helpfully provided on a sheet) ?.
On the last day (27th), a walking tour of the town was arranged for the morning. This took us high up into the hills so lots of steps and slopes on a hot morning but we went at a leisurely pace. The hilly roads and narrow alleyways were fascinating to stroll through and naturally the views got better the higher we climbed. With the aid of a cable car, they got even better.
There was the obligatory temple to look at of course. This one was called Saikokuji Temple and we all climbed 108 steps to reach it.
Lunch was laid on after all that exertion at a hotel opposite the marina. Another banquet of traditional Japanese dishes.
The ‘Sayonara’ party that evening was a 30 minute walk away from the marina along a busy promenade. The meal at the posh restaurant was the most sumptuous feast yet, consisting of about 8 courses. I had hopes for a salad that arrived near the start but it included anchovies. Nice wine though ☺. The rally concluded with farewell speeches and expressions of gratitude (thankfully no ‘Sailing’ performance to disturb the other diners ?)
We met some great people on the rally and got to experience some Japanese culture we might not otherwise have known about. Even an introvert like me got something out of it. We stayed on in Onomichi for a few days before moving on to explore more of Japan before our ocean crossing. This will be my last blog post until we reach the US. All the places we visited have been written about in Paul’s blog. My laptop got an accidental soaking in a heavy downpour yesterday and is out of action until we find a ‘doctor’ after the crossing. Paul will continue to post brief updates on our progress across the Pacific. See you on the other side! We’re off to look for America ?
Kathy