Author: paulcollister

So if you’re not in the business of replacing your Volvo MD22 timing belt, I suggest you skip this blog entry.
I’m writing this for a few reasons, firstly I’m very chuffed with myself to have completed this task, secondly, I wanted to document the steps I took in case I need to do it again, or in the slight hope it will be useful to others.

When I first bought Lady Stardust, she was lying in Glasgow, Scotland, and I would make weekly/fortnightly drives from Liverpool to check / work on her before Max and I sailed her back to Liverpool. On one of those long drives north, the timing belt snapped on my vauxhall (GM back then) car. The belt had been due to be replaced, but I had missed the service that it was meant to be done on. The result was that the engine was a right-off, and the car as well. In the end, I did get it repaired at around the same cost as buying a replacement car. Since then I have lived in fear of the thing same happening on this engine. The User Manual from Volvo states:

It was this advice that had me avoiding the job, but given that it was now 5 years since I bought the boat, and much longer since the last time an engineer might have changed the belt, I thought it high time I made an effort.

Fortunately I found an entry in the ever helpful yachting and boating forum YBW Forum link on how to do it the easy way. I also found a useful video on YouTube, but this went too deep and missed a few of the important stages out. YouTube link

The volvo engine is actually a rebranded Perkins, the Perkins engine I think is a block from China that was only made for a brief period, I have read reports that the Perkins engine was considered one of their worst, but I have also read the simplicity of this engine made it the go to engine for off grid reliability, back in its day. It was also used in the Austin/Rover Maestro and Montego vehicles for which I have the Haynes maintenance manual, these cars/vans had their fans, but I’m not sure they were ever really considered high quality.

The first job was to remove the cover , this requires the alternator to be loosened and then the belt removed, followed by the pulley on the water pump.

Removing the four nuts that hold the water pump pulley took forever. They were on really tight, and I was worried about breaking anything. Two knuckles gave up their covering to this task.

Once off, the cover came away, revealing the workings. The inside of the cover was quite clean, indicating no other problems.

Now the big deal here is that the timing belt obviously controls the timing of everything, so the valves (Camshaft) open and close in time with the pistons (Crankshaft) and the fuel injectors (Fuel Pump). When the belt snaps, the pistons can smash into the valves and can do massive damage to the valves, pistons, con rods, and other bits I don’t really know about, but it’s a bad deal.
So it’s important that when I take the belt off it goes back with all the pulley/cogs/shafts in exactly the right place. To aid in this the engine designer added a load of holes to help lock things in lace. This is what you need the specialist tools referred to above is all about. Drifts, which is another name for a tube/pipe or cylindrical bar, are inserted in various places, but Haynes suggest using the blunt end of a 6mm drill bit for this job.
The first one in goes into the crankshaft from above, you crank the engine around with a big spanner until the drill drops into the hole. This is at a point called Top Dead Centre (TDC) I think.

Next the crankshaft is locked in place with a similar drift into the flywheel. This part of the engine cannot be accessed easily, but I can see I need to clean it up, I think the water spill from the sea water pump last year has done some damage.

Finally two M6 screws go through holes in the injector fuel pump cog and into the engine block that locks it in place.

Once everything is locked off, the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley are removed and the belt slides out.

What is a little annoying is that the belt shows no sign of wear at all.
I replace it anyway, and ponder on the fact that the arrow on the belt is pointing the wrong way. I don’t understand how a belt can have a direction, it must be a subtle engineering thing, but I’m sure the original was on back to front. I put the new one on, but realise I cant get it to fit on the cogs properly. What’s more my logical mind is convinced there’s no way it’s going to go back on.
At this point I’m wondering why I didn’t do this at the dock, there’s a small gale due at the weekend, If my anchor drags, I will need the engine. I re read the manuals and find I missed a bit, partly because its in a section that refers to some screws that just don’t exist. Later I compare pictures and realise my engine is a little different from the manual. Anyway I have to remove the idler wheel, once I do this everything falls into place and the belt goes back on. I don’t have a meter to tension the belt to factory specs, but instead use the formula everyone else recomends that it should twist no more than 90 degrees at the longest part. It feels just right twisting at around 60 degrees, which is what the old belt was like. It doesn’t need to be over tight as it’s not a drive belt, like the generator.

Once it’s back together I remove the drifts and fire it up. Amazingly it works.

I clear up my mess, and in true Paul Collister style I find a screw left over. It’s been this way since I was 5, but I’m sure it must have fallen out of the toolbox and isn’t relevant.

I retire to the cockpit to have a soda watch the dolphins swim by.

Paul Collister.

PS As I write this, the gales is going well, and the anchor chain just wrapped around the keel, making the boat point the wrong way and heel a lot. I started the engine, and backed away from the chain, and the boat swung back into the wind. I’m so glad it works. The problem is the wind is 25+ knots from the north, yet a strong ebb is making the boat point south, so we are fighting both.

Friday 5th March
It’s friday, I’m meant to be leaving the marina on Tuesday but the weather turns rough next week, the mainland crossing I planned would happen after several days of 25 knot winds from the north, so although I would cross at the end in 20 knots on the beam and go very fast, I would also have big waves on the beam making it very uncomfortable, and maybe even unsafe if they were high enough. There’s a few hundred miles of open sea to the north, which is quite a large fetch for the waves to build in.
So I will leave the marina on Tuesday morning and drop the anchor in the bay here and wait for a good weather window.

The week started with a lot of chopper and boat activity from the local navy base. They were practising hoisting people off and onto boats.

On Wednesday I took a trip down to the shallow end of the bay to see a boat that had broken free from its mooring. I know nothing about it other than that it looks like it was a sturdy ocean going yacht once. It does have the look of a long abandoned boat, the hatches and lockers are open, and I suspect she may have been striped over the years, but I believe she was happy on her mooring 2 miles further up the bay until Monday. She is now aground near the beach and will become an eyesore and hazard. I expect the owner is not interested and the authorities have no budget to allow for recovery. I suggested to Arturo that we rescue the boat, put it back on its mooring and he could move onboard and save some rent. Of course, once the boat had any value, owners or debtors start to appear. I firmly think abandoned boats need to be confiscated and sold/removed asap.

A British ship arrived today, the Michaela Rose, this is a rarity, we hardly ever see British flagged vessels as we sail around the world, no shortage of UK ensigns with daft symbols on them, signifying flags of convenience, cayman islands etc.

It’s crewed by a few English guys I could hear their jolly banter, they also played Elton John and the Beatles quite loudly, I’m not sure this is a strict requirement of being UK flagged, if so I’m in trouble. It’s a 50m older style ship, has come from San Diego and I think is on charter.

The varnish work is done for another year, it’s looking great in places, and the hatchet job it really is , in others.
I’m going to wash the fibreglass topsides tomorrow then load the dinghy onto the deck, ready for the off. I tried to polish the hull with a polishing power tool that’s been lurking in the tool cupboard for many years. I never tried it before as it’s 110v 60hz (USA Power) and in Asia we generally had 240V, so it sat in the cupboard. Anyway, I got nowhere, I popped to the chandlers, thinking the auto polish I had bought in Malaysia and never used, was no good, and bought some expensive boat stuff, against my better judgement, still no improvement, I tried a little gentle rub with some 1000 grit paper and could see the gelcoat disappear rapidly, so stopped that game quickly. I’m going to have another go at it on Sunday, in the meantime I will do some reading and youtubing. It always looks so easy in the YBW or practical boating articles.
Arturo came and cooked a big pan of Shrimp soup for me, very tasty, later I tried to say “In England we would say” in Spanish only to have him give me a hard time on pronunciation as you can see in the vid below.

The authorities have reduced us down to ‘Yellow Alert’ as hospital admissions drop. The Malecon, beaches and piers are open again, and the signs requiring masks to be worn have disappeared, although most local people I see, and myself, continue to wear them.

I decided to give the fridge a good defrosting today, It took a while, and a huge amount of self restraint not to hack at the last bits of ice stuck behind the ice box. The urge to break the ice off is ridiculous, I know that if I poke too hard, i will break the evaporator or pipes leading to it, and that usually ends up with a bill for a few thousand dollars, plus a week or two in dock with no cool drinks, yet I still stand over it, wooden spatula in hand, because that’s safer I think, waiting for it to be safe to poke. Once I start poking I need someone to pull me away. If anyone can bottle that desire/graification and flog it, they’re onto a fortune.

Back at the marina offices, it seems the birds are very active building nests and scurrying around. These lovely classically styled tile roofs make a good nesting spot for the birds as you can see below.

Back on the boat I have a final wash of the cockpit before mounting all the MOB (Man Overboard) gear. It’s not a lot of use when sailing solo, but should I pass someone strugling in the water, at least I have things I can throw at them. A drop of phosphoric acid brought the teak up looking like new.

On Sunday Arturo and I have a final Sunday dinner.

On Monday I realise the boat is heeling far to much to starboard. This was also a problem on Lady Stardust, and I had always thought it was a design fault, which it sort of is. However seeing Greg’s baba 40 in the dock a few months back, sitting perfectly vertical made me decide to do something about it.

To calculate the list (leaning to one side) I strung a bit of cord up with a weight at the bottom, measured the deflection and the length, followed by a recitation of the SOH,CAH TOA rhyme we learnt at school, and went for TOA, tangent = Opposite over Adjacent. I didn’t have my log book with me, I must have left it in the 70’s somewhere, but figured my iPhone calculator could do it.

Several frustrating hours later I had a number, 3 degrees of starboard list

The problem with the list, besides the boat looking stupid in the Marina, and the starboard side of the boat having more growth on the boot top, is that water collects in places around the sinks where it shouldn’t, also it just doesn’t feel right.
The problem stems, in my opinion, from the fact that the best place to stow batteries is under the stb quarter berth bunk, initially the boat could probably run on half the number of batteries I have now. Add to that that the Quarter berth becomes the obvious place to dump stuff you rarely use, like fold up bikes, aircon units, diving gear etc. Also on this baba, the lockers on the starboard side are easy to access compared with the port side, so tend to get very full, especially with heavier things like paints, tools, nuts and bolts, spare rigging etc.
So on Monday I started moving all the heavy stuff that is not needed in an emergency, over to the port side behind the main sofa. The Aircon, which I should sling, was moved to the port sofa. And the empty port water tank was topped off.

As you can see from the baba Swingometer of list, things are a lot better now.

Off to the supermarket for some last minute provisioning and I was intruiged by what looked like dandelions in the herbs section.

Above is a sign many restaurants display, giving the strict rules to observe for dining. I would like to have one of these as I think soon people will be ripping them up and / or burning them as the pandemic ends, yet my great grandchildren will probably look at them with disbelief that such a time existed. They will be on a par with the war museum posters like ‘Dig for Britain’ or ‘Careless talk costs lives’

This is Arturo hanging out with his sea lion friends.

Tuesday 9th March
After 3 months tied to the dock, I cast off the lines, well actually Debbie from next door threw them to me. I timed it for slack water, but as usual the current didn’t agree with me and I started drifting immediately towards Debbie & Tom’s motor yacht. A quick blast on the throttle and we were out of their way, and 15 minutes later I was dropping the anchor just off the Malecon, where the tide did seem to be just about to turn. It’s very quiet out here, it’s also a very hot day, quite humid with a rather grey sky.
On the morning net, I heard there was a free walkup facility for vaccines in Loreto, if you are over 60. So that’s an option I must investigate. I think it’s true here as well, but harder to find out about. I also received an email from my UK doctor today inviting me to take my vaccine.

As the day comes to a close, I presume the Brits decide that if the good ship Sister Midnight is leaving, they must follow, and so steamed out just now.

I’m back into power conservation mode. The batteries are a few years old now, and don’t hold their charge as well, so I have to keep an eye on everything.
I put Diamond Dogs by Bowie on the sound system and cranked it up while I sat in the cockpit, something Kathy wouldn’t appreciate, and remember that it’s about Orwell’s book 1984, which is weird as Arturo just bought me a copy of 1984 in Spanish. Something I plan to read in full over the next few weeks. When we stayed in Deià in Mallorca, Spain we met the son of Robert Graves, the english poet and author. I may have remembered this wrong but I think his mother taught herself Spanish by reading Don Quixote in its original Spanish form. 1984 sounds like more fun to me, I recently re-read the book in english so I have a head start. I can thoroughly recommend both 1984 and Animal Farm as being particularly relevant to these modern times, there’s another link, as when we lived on board Stardust ( a bowie song) in Barcelona, we would often walk along ‘La Rambla’ in front of the building that George Orwell was on the roof of, firing his rifle during the Spanish civil war. I presume he spoke some Spanish.

Paul Collister

Sunday 21st Feb 2021.
So I guess you worked out this isn’t a post from Kathy. It’s a week now since she left and I have started on the task of making the boat look like new. I’m leaving in two weeks as my monthly term with the marina runs out, and it’s time to find warmer water.

Since Kathy left I have been doing small jobs on the boat, a little bit of programming, and quite a bit of lazing around. I’ve tried to up the Spanish learning a bit, but haven’t fully immersed myself as planned. But I’m optimistic I’m going to learn a lot over the next few months.

Arturo is learning the art of varnishing, today he spent two hours stripping old varnish off the eyebrow and grabrails on the coachroof port side. I have asked him to be here for 8am tomorrow so that he can get the first coat of varnish on. I have managed to get a first coat on the rub rails and two coats on the cap rails. I spent an hour today cleaning the steel bars that run along the rub rails to give them extra protection. In all the port side of the boat is starting to look great. With two weeks left I plan to spend one week on the port side, then flip the boat and repeat on the other side.

Arturo unknowingly guided the CEO of an airline (French I believe) around the islands a few months back, he did the whole thing in French, and the owner of the company was so impressed he recommended that a group of his employees use Arturo as their guide when they visit La Paz, so yesterday Arturo led them around the islands listening to him tell them the history of the islands, the story of Hernan Cortez, the mating habits of Sea Lions, and some nonsense on cloud types I taught him. It all went very well, and hopefully Arturo is building up a following and reputation here. I expect he will be running his own high end Eco tour company in a few years time.

Maria has now taken to flying into the cabin and wandering around when I’m not paying attention. Not just to the breadboard, but the length of the boat!

While working on the deck I decided to pour the contents of a diesel jug into the main tank, and then get it refilled at the local station. This will save me taking the boat to another marina to refill. However after I had put about 5 litres of the fuel into the tank I stopped as the diesel looked odd.

I took a sample into a cup and it was definitely the wrong colour, it also smelt of paint. This was worrying, after an hour the fuel looked the same, often a contamination will separate out and sink or float. looking at the container it was stored in, it’s clear the inside is a different colour where the diesel was. I have concluded that the diesel dissolved the inside of the container over time, it may have been in there for a year by now, and that it was so fine it had bound to the diesel fuel like a stain. I disposed of the fuel and the container, I just hope that the fuel I put into the tank isn’t going to be a problem.

I had to do some cleaning in the bilge area of the main cabin and I’m always shocked when I see how much machinary, wiring and plumbing there is. Is this normal, looks more like I would expect on the Space station than in a sailboat.

Another job I finally got started was the starboard whisker stay fitting. This is a bracket that attaches one end of the whisker stay to the boat, the other end goes to the bowsprit, its job is to stop the bowsprit swinging from side to side as the headsail fills with wind, and to some extent when the mast pulls on it.

It had a crack in it, and I have been meaning to do something about it for years, but dreaded taking it off as I suspected it would be very difficult to do. In the end, it took me all of ten minutes. Now I need to find a welder to make me a new one, I had thought it could be repaired, but I think a new backplate is in order.
It’s amazing how stuff like steel can just crack, I doubt this was ever under any real strain.

Monday 22nd Feb
A trip to the optician starts the week off, I wonder if this might be a good way to get the coronavirus and almost back out, but I double up on the masks and take a risk. My eyes are really struggling to read small stuff, and I’m getting headaches if I’m on the laptop for too long. The visit goes well, and they are very diligent in cleaning all the equipment just before I stick my head in it. The poor guy who died in the boat near to us is suspected to have caught the virus from his dentist, but I think they have to get a lot closer than opticians.

The rest of the week is mostly about sanding and varnishing. Arturo is quite handy with a heat gun and scraper now. In trying to find a new scraper I empty out one of the lockers and decide a good clearout is called for. I have a theory if you have done 10,000 miles through countless countries, over several years and you still haven’t used the 7/16″ 6 inch PVC tube, or the vacuum cleaner extension pipe, then they can go. The lockers are a lot more empty, tomorrow I will need a 7/16″ 6 inch PVC tube.
We pop over to a local stainless steel fabricator who is happy to build me a new whisker stay bracket for $2500 (peso), around £90, not cheap, but not outrageous either.

While resting in the cockpit in between coats of varnish, this guy flies in and takes up a sentry position on the monitor steering, and doesn’t seem to care about Arturo and I sitting right next to him. Arturo wonders if it might be one of the local ‘tropical cormorants’ that are around here. It’s quite a big bird and I’m glad Maria and Carlos aren’t here.

By thursday I have slapped about 5 coats of varnish on the port cap rail, and the same amount on the rub-rail. The eyebrow and grab rail also have 3 coats and more will go on, possible once I leave town. The port hull is washed, but not yet polished.
At 3:30, when the tide is turning we leave the slip and head out for a 5 min trip into the bay, long enough for me to move the lines and fenders over to the other side as when we head back into the marina I reverse into our slip so the starboard side is now against the pontoon and we can start cleaning that up.

I take advantage of the engine being hot to change the oil & filter, It’s been 170 hours of engine running since the last change. I think the manual recommends every 100 hours. I wondered if I have recently changed it, but the log I keep says it was last march, a year ago, so that would be about right. I wonder if I forgot to put an entry in the log and as I’m writing this I realise I havent put today’s oil change into the log. So who knows. What I do know is that I aligned the level of new oil exactly to the max oil marker, then I remembered you have to push really hard to get the dipstick to go all the way in, which it did, now I have about 3mm too much on the dipstick. I don’t want to have to extract it, so I need to search the web until I find someone who says it’s ok.

One of the advantages of being ‘Stern In’ is that I get a clearer view of the sunsets from the cockpit, and tonight is spectacular.

The new bracket arrived on Friday and Arturo helped me fit it, I tried to teach him the art of sikaflexing without getting it everywhere, but ended up showing him how to remove sikaflex from unwanted places.

This is one of the things I enjoy a lot about the cruising lifestyle, having to find local trades folk who can make fancy things from basic materials, at short notice, and for reasonable prices. When something like a steel bracket breaks, or a plumbing fitting that’s a bit bespoke fails, just grab said part, head off down the pontoon asking along the way, and you’re soon enough in a workshop with an engineer saying, yes of course I can make that, come back tomorrow.

Next on the list was a leaking deck prism, these are blocks of glass in the shape of a prism, fitted into the deck and when the sun shines, they spread light far and wide inside the boat. I love them, except that they require a large hole cutting in the deck to sit in. This invariable leaks, as this Port/Midship one did.

Unfortunately, as I dug out the old sealant, and criticised the poor workmanship of whoever put it in, I started to recognise the flaws in the fitting. I think the rubbish job, may well have been mine from a few years ago. I decided it couldn’t have been, and proceeded to do the same sort of repair I would have done back then if it had of been me, which means it’s going to leak again. To make matters worse I have decided to rebel against all thing ‘Marine’ that are very similar to non Marine things, like glue and sealant. So I’m using an off the shelf builders sealant at £3 a tube, instead of the fancy Sikaflex at more like £20. I might not be so cavalier if the job was below the water line, but worst case scenario here is that Kathy will get drips on her head if it rains a lot!

Arturo is here every other day or so when there is no work on the tour boats. He is getting better at varnishing and is very good at scraping and sanding. We now have 3 coats of varnish on all the woodwork, with 7 coats on the cap rails. The boats looking a lot smarter. I polished all the steel in the pulpit area, and the bowsprit and platform are looking good.
In 7 days time I will chug on out of the Marina, still not sure of where to go, but the most likely destination is Mazatlan over on the mainland, a sail of around 36 hours, So I would leave at 7 AM and arrive in the afternoon on the following day.

Paul Collister

She hasn’t as of yet, but by the time I finish and publish this blog she will be on a flight to London praying that in those 12 hours of flight, Mexico is not added to the red list of countries that will require her to be put in kennels for a couple of weeks quarantine. Of course we don’t want Mexico to be on the red list, but it seems crazy to ban the countries that have already sent the worrying viruses to the UK where it is established and spreading, and to let people bring in the new as yet undiscovered variants from countries we didn’t even know had the new variants. I think if you want to stop new variants getting into the uk, then quarantine everyone arriving. I won’t be surprised if the killer strain from worrystan ends up defeating the AZ vaccine and we end up having to start all over again. Hope not 🙂

We continue to dine out on sundays with Arturo. We used to cook a meal for him on board, but with the current high levels of the virus here, and the fact Arturo works with visitors from the USA and Mexico city, we only meet up outdoors , keep a distance and dine in outdoor restaurants now.

Dirk and Silvia are another couple who take the situation very seriously, we meet up with them every week or so for a coffee. Below you can see us on a rooftop bar with a great view out across the bay.

Arturo and I do a walking Spanish lesson once or twice a week, when he is not working we walk around town, often with a chandlers or bakery as the target destination. As we walk, Arturo tests me on my Spanish, I must say, I’m pretty good now on Pavement, Lamppost and Car. (Banqueta, Poste de luz y Carro).

After a very hot walk, we might stop for a Raspado, Arturo likes to have Chile on his Mango, not quite sure how that works.

On a bike ride with Kathy we stopped to photograph a pandemonium of parrots, finally had an excuse to use that collective noun.

We also saw a volt of vultures, obviously I had to look these up.

Last saturday, an announcement went out for a travelling musical family, who were struggling for funds, as their usual restaurant audiences had dried up. They offered to perform at the local basketball court for anyone who was interested at sunset. We went along not sure what to expect and were pleased to see dozens of fellow cruisers who had turned up. quite a crowd, initially well separated and all masked up, that changed a little as time went one and more arrived and mingled. We sat away in the corner.
They hadn’t expected anyone to turn up and had gone off to the other side of town, leaving one of the family looking after their trailer, who had to quickly try and get them all back as we amassed. A little later and they started performing.

The musicians are one family, Father/Mother, 2 sons and three daughters. They all live in one car with a trailer for all of their instruments.

They are incredibly talented, the girls had amazing voices, and the whole family seemed quite overwhelmed with the turnout. One of the cruisers put a cap out in front of the band, and after another cruiser gave one of the cruising kids a few hundred pesos to put in the hat, the cruiser kids started excitedly running around the cruisers collecting money and filling the hat. I’m thinking they made enough money to support themselves for a good while.

A few days ago this giant of a sailboat arrived, she must be 35, maybe 40m long. I was intrigued as to where they kept the anchor as the sleek prow showed no signs of one.

I was in luck as the next day they dropped anchor in the marina, and I saw the anchor rise out of the deck on a huge arm that swung it up in the air then over the bow ready to be lowered. Of course the reason they were doing it in the marinas was because this slightly complicated system was broken. The arm that did the work was sticking. I watched as they went up and down with it, I’m not sure they fixed it as the anchor was left hanging over the bow.

Kathy and I took a trip over to the Mogote again and had a long beach walk, we went right around the island to the development called Paraiso del mar, This is a luxury block of apartments looking out over the sea. It’s a great spot, whale sharks frequent these waters. and you have the area to yourself as it’s not easy to get to by land. I have mentioned before that I heard the development was declared ilegal before it was completed, and recently I have heard they have problems with the water supply.

Yesterday I made Guacamole to have as dinner as we sat in the cockpit watching the sunset. I’ve become quite good at taking a bunch of Cilantro (coriander) and dicing it up into very small pieces. This time the mix didn’t taste as good as normal, and it was upon closer inspection I noticed that I hadn’t completley diced up the elastic band that came with the cilantro, a few little bits were obvious. It all got tipped into the bin. What an idiot.

We also went to a local clinic to get Kathy Covid tested for her trip home. They didn’t speak English, but we muddled through and Kathy had a most un-enjoyable experience getting swabbed for the PCR test.

Kathy spent the weekend packing and fretting over all the paperwork and procedures needed for international travel these days. I organised a car rental for the the airport trip, primarily to avoid having to use a taxi for covid reasons, but secondly, I could do some shopping and exploring later. A few days ago we heard from one of the cruisers here on the radio net that he had Covid and was isolating on his boat. Two days later we heard he had been taken to the hospital, today we heard he had succumbed to the virus. Very sad.

Kathy was most relieved late on Sunday when her test results came through as ‘Negativo’, we also got the last confirmation that her covid test pack was on its way to Liverpool and we had completed the Passenger locator successfully.

So off we went for our Sunday dinner out with Arturo. We were surprised to find the restaurants staying open late, and quite busy, when it dawned on us that it was Valentines day, not something we go mad about normally.

However tonight the local rose seller, who has been trying for the best part of a year to get me to buy Kathy a rose succeeded. I felt sorry for the guy, I thought if he can’t sell me a rose on Valentines day, there’s not a lot of hope for him, or perhaps me!

We had a lovely meal in our favorite Italian restaurant, I especially like the hot bread with dipping oils, it reminds me of our sailing days in Greece.

Monday the 15th Feb
Time for Kathy to start her mammoth trek home. I head of at 9 to collect the hire car, while Kathy does the last bit of flapping, then we are off to the airport. Of course we forget there’s an extra airport health form to fill in on the web when you get there before you can check in, but I manage that just in time and Kathy’s bags are whisked away. I say goodbye, not sure just how many months it will be before we are back together.
I take the car into town, do some shopping at the big Home Depot store then pickup Arturo, we decide to do some exploring of the remoter parts of La Paz.
At the far end of the bay we find some lovely beaches, one with a bit of a shipwreck of a ferro-cement boat. I would love to know the history of this grounding.

After the boat we take a dirt track out to the Magote, it’s a very tough ride for our little car, and not much to see, other than two giant cruise ships anchored off, waiting for a better time.

We leave southern La Paz and head north through the town to a popular beach at tecalote, this place is rammed in the summer, but has strict restrictions these days, but on a cool monday afternoon, we have the place to ourselves, so decide on some food at a beach restaurant. The variety and quality on offer is fantastic, Arturo orders clams, I have Fish Tacos and Guacamole.

Back at the boat, it’s a quiet affair, and the boat seems a tad empty without Kathy. I shall have to get to work and keep myself busy now.

I track Kathy’s flights and wake up sometime in the night to see she has just landed in Heathrow and is taxiing. I get a text later to say she has cleared through and is waiting her flight to Manchester. Later today we chat once she has settled into her flat. Job done.

Paul Collister.

It’s been raining and cold, a warning went out that it could drop below 10 degrees Celsius last week, although it seems funny, and it meant I had to dig out long trousers and a fleece for the first time in a year, the weather warnings are real here as many people live in somewhat well ventilated shacks, i.e. a few sheets of corrugated iron over some breeze blocks, and at night they can be at risk.

Very little is happening here, Lockdown stays at a high level. I finished the real computer work I was doing. I also managed to migrate my mail from Utah to my own mail server running on the Amazon cloud. Finally I can say goodbye to Bluehost.
Last weekend we took the dinghy out to the Magote for a walk along the island. It was a gorgeous day, the wind had dropped and the temperatures risen a lot, so we wanted to make the most of it.

Maria and her mate turn up everyday for their free meals, they seem to like Sister Midnight.

Kathy has two weeks before her flight home. So far it’s going to plan, the fear of her having to stay in a hotel seems to have receded, but this could change. We may head out next week, once the winds subside and have a final week in the islands before her flight.
Once she has gone I will touch up the brightwork on the boat and head east.
I had the hull washed, in fact the diver only did the prop & bow thruster as the hull was so clean, which is great after two months sitting here, so far so good for the new antifoul. He replaced the Zinc anode on the stern which is great.

I finally managed to locate a good supply of beer, this should last a few weeks.

Not sure if this is a heron, but he/she happily wanders around the marina checking the boats out.

I thought I would drop some pictures of the fruit section in Chedraui, just because it’s so colourful and I haven’t got anything better to show you.

Paul Collister

Again there’s not a lot happening, Kathy and I both have children/grandchildren and friends back in the UK recovering from Covid, caught over the Christmas period. Thankfully no one is seriously ill, but it does show how quickly this virus is spreading. La Paz has just moved from level 4 to level 5, out of a possible 6. More restrictions, but nothing too bad. The Malecon is closed 24/7 now and restaurants have more restrictions on table separation.

It’s worrying as more and more people arrive from the states to escape the winter and restrictions up there and travel around here on holiday, of course many Mexicans just can’t afford to stay off work, there’s little in the way of state support here. We are restricting our outings more, and feel quite safe on board. Kathy’s flight back home in 4 weeks is still on, but as of now we are not sure if she will be required to stay in an expensive hotel upon arrival in the UK.

So I am slowly starting to do jobs around the boat, I have got the dinghy covers repaired, and decided to track down the small leak. I find a little gap in the join between the sponson and the deck, and repair it with some extremely expensive glue I buy locally. The fabric is Hypalon, something that is no longer manufactured, but the glue, which I would normally pay £7 for back home costs me £35. Reading the label I find out it’s made in Colwyn Bay, not far from my home in the UK. It’s good to see british manufacturing being exported to Mexico, I wonder how much glue they will need to sell to make up for the cost of Brexit, quite a lot I expect. Anyway, the repair made no difference, so I filled the dinghy with water again and searched for the leak. It appeared to be just passing through the metal bottom of the boat as if by magic, but closer inspection revealed a crack, and sure enough that was the source of the leak. There is an identical crack on the other side as well, but that doesnt leak. I taped over the crack with some gaffa tape and that stopped the leak. It’s not a solution, but it proved the point.

Doing a little research it appears this is not uncommon, and the manufacturer warns that operating the dinghy underinflated can cause these cracks, if the transom, the back of the dinghy moves, it strains the join. I keep the tubes inflated but wondered if perhaps on the passage across the pacific where it had deflated a lot, if I had maybe pushed on the transom for support when working on the foredeck. Disappointing all the same. I found a guy on the internet who had sold his dinghy with exactly the same cracks as he had had it replaced under warranty. My warranty is in year 4 of 5 so I have tried to chase the manufacturer, but as I bought it in Thailand, they are in the USA and they have no rep in Mexico, I’m not hopeful. Repairing it should be possible, but it’s likely to fail again. Hopefully I can get another 4 years out of it, then it will have paid for its keep.

I was made up to find the local cheapo marine supplier had a big stock of Zinc anodes just the right size for me. I bought a couple and the diver will fit one next week when I get the hull cleaned. If it fits as expected, I will buy a few as they have been hard to get round here.

We had a ride up to the ceramics shop Ibarra, where they hand make pottery, crockery, pots, tiles etc etc. I really wish I had a house here that I could fill with these colourful items. The shop is very tranquil, several staff working in the yard, shaping, moulding and painting their work.

So next onto the Gas. We ran out of gas so I thought I would write a little about the gas system for those who don’t know much about boats and gas. If you have a caravan, or trailer as I think they call them over on this continent, then you probably know this stuff, but boats have an added complication, there’s nowhere for the gas to escape to and that makes it dangerous.
We have two bottles of gas on board, they are made of aluminium, and should last forever, or at least longer than me. Most gas bottles people have are made of steel and in a marine setting they corrode very quickly. Mine have to be serviced every so many years, 7 I think, we had ours done in Seattle as they were very out of date, they didn’t mind that so much in Asia, except in Japan, where they refused to go anywhere near a foreigners tanks. I normally get 4-5 months out of a tank, but a little less when Kathy is here and doing lots of cooking. In La Paz we can just drop our tanks off with the car park attendant here on Tuesdays or Fridays in the morning and he returns them filled at lunchtime. One tank costs me around £10-15 which isn’t bad for 3 months cooking.

The tanks live in a sealed locker at the back of the cockpit. There is a drain at the bottom of the locker out to the sea, and an electric shutoff valve which defaults to shut when there is no power. We turn the electric valve on when we cook and off as soon as we finish. We enjoy ribbing each other whenever we forget this.
It’s important as propane and butane gas is heavier than air so settles on the ground. Inside the boat there is no way out so the gas will go under the sole (floorboards) and build up in all the cavities of the bilge. There’s not a lot of ventilation down there and at some point it could explode if a flame or spark came its way.

So the tanks are isolated outside of the cabin with their own drain overboard and the feed into the cabin is only connected when we are cooking. I have replaced all the parts that decay and so I feel confident it’s safe.

Saying that, once the new bottle is back in place, I stuff the locker with all manner of dangerous goods, small gas bottles for the camping stove and DDT fuel additives, in case there is an explosion, it might as well be a good one 😉

Maria has returned, I assume it’s her, given how as soon as she arrived she made her way to my breadboard, knowing that I wouldn’t have put any food out for her yet.
She seems to have a mate who has started arriving with her, he? is more wary of me.

I’m busy working on software for work at the moment, not really enjoying it, but it should be finished soon. Varnish work awaits, and this week has seen the temperatures start to rise, it’s getting pretty warm in the day now and I can see how soon I will be kicking myself for not doing these jobs when it was cooler.

Paul Collister.

Just a quick update, there’s not a lot happening, and won’t until Kathy heads back to the UK in 5 weeks and I head off to sea, probably to the mainland.

It’s been a quiet time for us over the Christmas period. As you can see from above, the big boats that berth on the long outside pontoons have loaded up with beer/food and passengers and shot off, out to the islands I expect.
Our time has been spent tidying up the boat, and shopping for ingredients for the Christmas dinner. Kathy has been hunting for various british bits and bobs that are hard to find here, like chutney and sage & onion stuffing.

We took a walk along the Malecon on Christmas Eve and watched someone enjoying the winds which had built up for the Christmas period.

I took on the job of making some salsa to accompany the main meal. So I bought fresh Guacamole ingredients

Kathy did a wonderful job of producing a full christmas spread + Mexican salsas and Tostadas. We invited Arturo over to join us and experience what we brits do every year. He really liked the cauliflower cheese, which makes me wonder if he really is Mexican. Yuk.
We didn’t have any crackers to pull, as that’s a very British thing. I think some Canadians have them, and also Australia has a version.

And so into the new year. Restrictions are still in place and surprisingly haven’t been extended yet. We are taking extra care now as I’m sure the new strains of the virus will be arriving soon, if not already. We won’t know because very little testing of the public happens in Mexico, unless you are ill. Also there was lots of Christmas partying. I have just read that in California USA, which is the next region going north, and where most people here commute to and from, the virus is at very dangerous level. Ambulances are scarce and have been told not to bring people to the hospital if they are not breathing, i.e. if they can’t be resuscitated in situ, then not to tie up an ambulance bringing them to ER. Also some hospital are rationing oxygen. Let’s hope the vaccine gets out there soon and works as expected.

I have spent this quiet time writing software and building systems. I’m trying to build my own mail server, not something that would have been too challenging for me in the past, but with new security requirements required by mail systems these days, I’m having to learn new skills. I’m enjoying it.

The varnishing will start soon. I got a quote for repairing the dinghy chaps (sponson covers) which was more than I paid for them in Thailand, so I have asked the Thai’s for a price for new ones. In the meantime I might have a go at repairing these myself. I may even buy a sewing machine (second hand) for the boat to help out.

I need to buy a new hammock, the one I have been using can no longer support me, as I found out in the most brutal of ways.

Hopefully I can get over to Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta in a few months, it will be warmer there and I can checkout the mainland side. I have a picture below, courtesy of google maps which gives an idea of the route I would take.

Paul Collister

I made a long list of tasks that I want to complete over the next few weeks, the first was cleaning the stainless steel rails and fittings on the boat, this took a couple of days, I have decided to split the jobs up, doing the outside boat jobs in the morning and doing any computer related work in the afternoon. I also cleared the pushpit, that’s the rail around the back of the boat, of all the safety gear and anything else that wasn’t needed, to give me a better uncluttered view out. This helps spot the odd dolphin or sea lion that surfaces in the marina. I gave the boat a good clean and pumped up the fenders. Our neighbours left and returned one slip further away from us. I wonder how they knew we were from Liverpool. 😉

Tuesday had me visiting the immigration office to plead for a visa extension on humanitarian grounds, as I had done successfully 6 months ago. They were very nice but were quite adamant I couldn’t have a visa, making me an illegal immigrant. However they said not to worry, once I decide to leave the country, I should pop in and get an exit visa that will allow me to get through the airport. A very laid back, and if I might say, sensible approach to take.

On the paperwork side, I chased the refund from Iberia which was promised 6 months ago, they apologised and said we would hear from them in the next week … still waiting. I booked a flight for Kathy to return home, Mexico direct to Heathrow, so hopefully we don’t have to worry about any EU complications. Also the UK have just struck an amazing new trade deal with Mexico, almost as good as the one we had with the EU, so I expect it will be a special flight for her.

I replaced the gas hose, you can see the nick in the hose in the pic below, Once I could see the damage I realised the hose is armour plated and the cut was superficial, still I’m very happy to have a new one in there. I did manage to inflict some pain upon my neck routing the hose through the back of the boat.

The morning net had the marina office announcing the names of people with mail waiting, they had my birthday card from my kids, 3 months late, but it’s the thought that counts.

The marina is busy with new arrivals, many people who would normally arrive with the cancelled Baja Ha Ha rally from San Diego stayed home, but a hardy bunch travelled here anyway, several with the ad hoc group known as the Baja Na Ha. (In case you didn’t know, Baja rhymes with Haha). We had a nice time chatting with the owners of a Baba 40, Hull number 1. that is berthed just down the way from us. Even though it’s about 8 years younger than our boat, it looks much better, more teak, and well maintained. You can see below people doing maintenance. I know well the feeling of arriving at your destination in a new country after several weeks, or maybe months of travel. There’s a lot of adrenalin and relief and you can hear lots of animated conversations around the berths, one year later and you have a much more relaxed attitude about it.

Arturo introduced me to a local sail repair shop that he has made friends with, they also have just opened a restaurant. They came and removed the chaps (Covers) from our dinghy as the stitching was dissolving in the sun and soon it would be wrecked. I hate the look of the bare plastic left.

Christmas decorations are going up everywhere

Covid is on the up and up, the governor of this state moved us up a tier this week, meaning Jail or a hefty fine for anyone outside of their home without a mask on. Also Gyms are shutting, occupancy in restaurants is restricted. You can see below three armed guards stop people from posing with the La Paz sign. The Malecon is still closed to the public for most of the time.

I have recently learnt the Spanish names of some of the creatures we see around here and had to chuckle when I realised the plant fertilizer we have is literally translated as ‘Bat Shit’. Brilliant.

Other mundane repair jobs continue around the boat.

Another mural that caught my eye this week.

Paul Collister

Tuesday 1st December

Rabbits
Up early, at least earlier than the bloody painters who haven’t finished the hull yet and we launch in a few hours. The plan is to lift the boat high in the slings so they can get under the keel, clean it properly then paint it. Eventually a whole gang arrive and start the work. The travel lift is busy preparing for a sailboat called Aventura which is being hauled out at ten. Everything goes to plan and we are launched just after 12. The whole thing is an ordeal for Kathy as she has a tooth hanging out which is giving her a lot of pain. As soon as we arrive back in La Paz it’s off to the dentist for her, or maybe some string tied to the door handle if things get too bad beforehand. 

Once launched we reverse into the fuel dock, and I’m very pleased to see the Bow Thruster works very well, the LED dims a little, so I’m wondering if it used to, or there might still be a problem. I will do some more tests at a later date. 
The boat is flying along with the new paint and shiny prop. We were doing 6.5 knots with a moderate amount of power, 2000RPM, so it’s much better. I’m very happy to be afloat again, and we have tidied everything up and are enjoying having running water again.We fuel up, get water, wash the boat down quickly and head out to sea.
It’s a bit bouncy out there, but I have spotted a small cove, called honeymoon cove, just 40 minutes from the marina, on Danzante Island. One review says “it can be a bit tight getting in,  but that’s appropriate for a honeymoon”. As it turns out, we are the only ones there. Our first attempt at dropping the anchor finds a stony/rocky bottom and it won’t grip. So we re-anchor in a different spot and the same problem. I let the boat drift back away from the shore, letting out more chain hoping at some point we will find sand, and in the end we dig in, but not very well. Then the boat turns and backs up to the beach, I’m not 100% happy with the situation, but as the wind is expected to drop a lot and there are no waves at all here I think we will survive. All the same I set a tight anchor alarm on the iPhone. 

Wednesday 2nd
One other boat joined the cove and anchored in a narrow section between two cliff faces. An older double ender boat like ours, but full of youthful exuberance. Loud Abba/rap for a while, then a lot of shouting at the cliffs, I’m not sure if they had ever heard an echo before, but we all have now.
We moved around a lot as the sun set, the wind swinging in every direction, eventually we ended up very close to the beach with the tide dropping, at one point we only had half a metre of water under the stern. With the very rocky bottom it was quite a worry. However the tide was soon rising and the wind pushed us a little further away, so I slept reasonably well, checking the depth and location every few hours.

Come dawn, the mountains were lit up spectacularly, and the waters were splashing like crazy with all the sea life. We left around 8am to make the most of the morning calm and headed north into the predicted strong winds for the deserted salt ponds town of Salinas. The boat performed really well, into a headwind of 15 knots and oncoming waves, we easily pushed along at over 6 knots without pushing the engine hard at all. We anchored in 4 metres of water off the beach, the anchor dug in first time and dug in deep, we gave it maximum revs in reverse and she didn’t budge. This means I get to sleep long and deep tonight. Later we went ashore to tour the ghost town and gather some salt from the old abandoned ponds. Kathy was quite amazed by it all. We joked about making Christmas cards with the scenery, it just looks like frozen lakes covered in snow.

Thursday 3rd
The wind built through the night, but I got a great sleep nonetheless, during the day the wind climbed to 25 knots but because we were anchored in a bay facing north, the waves were quite low, the boat seesawed around a fair bit and we stayed indoors doing odd jobs. I did some programming, without the internet you realise just how good books were, I mean programming books, I wanted to check the name of the tick box you see on web forms, I wanted to know the name of the element/attribute that is set when the tick appears, I guessed at Value, Selected, state, tick, etc etc, without the internet or books I was stuck, I ended up searching through some javascript code from a saved website and found it was called checked!  Kathy cleaned out all the cupboards in the galley and washed them with a mixture of water & Borax, hopefully this will strike a blow at the cockroaches that visit us each evening to see what dinner leftovers there might be. I lifted the stove out of its bay so we could clean around there and I checked the gas hose that supplies it, I couldn’t believe that it had been chafing on the steel plated bulkhead and had a groove in the sheath. I made a temporary repair and have made this the number one repair job to do when we get back to La Paz. I had meant to replace the pipe in Canada or the USA but couldn’t find anyone who could supply the pipe with fittings. I think this might be easy here.
I was up several times in the night, the wind was wild but eventually calmed a bit by morning.

Friday 4th
Up early to see if the weather has calmed enough to leave. We had seen 35 knots of wind yesterday, but we were now around 20, and although it looked and sounded bad out there, I felt it would be no problem, especially as we were heading downwind. The Raspberry PI computer had been logging the wind all night and a quick import to excel showed the wind was definitely on a downhill trajectory.

Kathy was keen to press on, so we took off, the first problem being the anchor chain was stretched taut by the force of the wind on the boat, so Kathy had to abandon her prone position in the V berth flaking chain, to drive the boat forward to where I was pointing from the bow. Every ten metres that came in had me running down to the anchor locker to knock the chain pyramid over. If I didn’t do this, the bigger pyramid would fall over on itself and trap the chain, making it impossible to anchor later on. As soon as the anchor broke free, the boat swung around in the wind and was away. I had the Genoa up and the engine off in minutes and we took off on one of the best sails I have had in a long time. It was a broad reach with waves and some surf pushing us along generally around 7 knots, at one point the GPS recorded 10 knots. We seemed to have the sea to ourselves and with bright blue skies, I lay back in the cockpit and let the autohelm do the work.

6 hours later the wind had dropped a lot, and I let out the last third of the sail as we glided into Agua Verde bay. Soon the hook was down in 9m of clear water and we broke out the drinks to celebrate a fast passage. 

Saturday 5th
We decided to enjoy having a lie in, then a lazy day in Agua Verde. After a leisurely breakfast we checked out the surf on the beach and decided it was a bit much for Kathy in the dinghy so we opted to go ashore in the protected little cove we were anchored in and take the dirt track to the village. It’s only about a mile, but up and down winding mountain trails. I’m glad we did, the trail took us inland behind a big hill overlooking the bay and we discovered amazing views both of the bay from high above and also of the mountains and plains inland.
At the village we stocked up on Bimbo bread and 5 hours of internet vouchers. Back at the boat we caught up with the news, downloaded the latest weather forecasts and generally continued to be lazy. 

Sunday,
I’m up at 7 and looking at the weather it seems like a good time to get off, I think Kathy might have preferred a lie in and a lazy breakfast, as we often do on Sundays, but today we have strong Northerlies forecast followed by several calm days and I figure we can do 50 miles to Evaristo in 8 hours in we average more than 6 knots, which should be doable in the predicted wind of 15-25 knots. So on with the kettle, and I start stowing while Kathy is still fast asleep. 
By half seven we are motoring out of the tranquil bay at Agua Verde into big seas and strong winds, The waves are high and for the first hour, on the side of the boat, making it rather Rolly. I quickly have the Genoa headsail up and the motor off. As we turn away from the wind and start our 7 hour downhill run we are hitting speeds of 9 knots as we rush off the big waves hitting us from behind. An hour later the wind shifts so that it is right behind us, I’m glad I didn’t put up the mainsail, we have enough sq ft up there and the main would just be more work. However the big waves has us corkscrewing a lot and the sail collapses frequently, then fills with a loud crack. It’s an old sail and I’m not looking forward to it ripping so I shove the engine on, furl the sail and get the spinnaker pole out. Soon we are flying along again and the Genoa stays filled for the next 7 hours. It’s brilliant sailing, I sit on the foredeck, as that’s the only place getting any sun. One of the problems of sailing south like this is that the sun is dead ahead and hidden by the sail, the solar panels aren’t happy at all.

After a few hours I check that all the lines are good, not chafing, the rig is under a lot of force, big waves lift all 19 tons of us up and throw us down, while the wind exerts a massive force on the Genoa sheets, which are very taut. I notice that somehow I have got the uphaul for the spinnaker pole wrapped around the radar unit on the mast, I’m amazed it hasn’t ripped it off yet. It’s also going through a shroud it shouldn’t, what a mess, I slacken it off and let the sail control how far down it can go, in the end it works out fine. Kathy sits in the cockpit for the last hour of the journey and is shocked when the spinnaker winch starts screaming as it spins quickly, I jump over and grab the fishing reel, I use the winch to tell me when the line is running out. It’s a big one, and after a bit of a struggle I get it on board, it’s a 4kg Dorado. Enough for 5 big meals. It’s the largest fish I have ever caught and I feel quite bad about killing it.  As I expect today is the last sailing day of the year, so will this be my last catch of the year.

We turn into San Evaristo around 2:30 pm, and I try to furl the Genoa, but unfortunately it’s blowing too strong and the sail furls too tightly and I can’t get it all furled. I need a better way to get this big sail in when it’s blowing hard. We drop anchor in a very protected cove on the north side of the bay and Kathy pours a drink, I have a beer before getting down to some serious filleting.

Monday
We leave Everisto and head for Isla Partida, but on the way we take a small detour to check out the Sea Lions at Isla Islota, a couple of big rocks north of Partida. They don’t disappoint, there’s plenty of them, making lots of noise, and quite a smell. Later we anchor in a lovely cove at Ensenada El Cardonal, there’s only one other sailboat there and we have a peaceful night, the wind now having dropped right down.

Tuesday
Leaving Partida, we glide down past Esperitu Santo, the wind picks up a little and I unfurl the Genoa again, The sails fills nicely and we are off at 3.5 knots in a very flat sea, we sail all the way to the anchorage at La Paz, negotiating the channel around the end of the sandbank that extends almost all the way to the oil terminal. We drop the hook just outside Marina De La Paz and I phone up and I’m lucky enough to get a berth in there from tomorrow.

Wednesday
A 5 minute motor into Marina La Paz and within a few hours the boat is hosed down, plugged in, hooked up to the internet and lots of $$$ handed over to the marina. We are back to being a static caravan for the next few months. I’m quite motivated to do lots of work on the boat, and also do some interesting Software dev.
We are here now until we work out what’s going on with the Vaccine, Brexit and other stuff. Kathy plans to fly home in Feb, I may join her, but only if I’m free to travel and visit family and friends, also we don’t know if we will be allowed to travel via European airports yet. It was announced today that Brits may only be allowed into other European countries for special reasons, because as a ‘third country’ with a High covid Level, we may be banned. Also we may be required to have vaccinations before we can board flights, and we may not be able to get them here before Feb. So many variables, we will have to wait and see.

Paul Collister.

Tuesday 24th November 2020
Our first day on the hard, and this is a very hard concrete yard we are in, and it’s not as bad as I was expecting. There’s not a lot going on here other than two men who are sanding the old antifoul off the hull in preparation for 2 coats of new interspeed 640 hard antifouling. I spent the day cleaning the prop, fitting a new anode to it and repairing the autopilot which failed just after we left Agua Verde. Once again the key that holds one of the cogs to the drive shaft fell out. Unlike the last time, I couldn’t find the key. I took this as an opportunity to give that area of the boat, behind the rudder shaft a good cleaning, with the hopeful bonus of finding the key. Thinking about it, I should have found it, and I’m wondering if the key might have slipped back into the motor housing. I ended up having to make a new key, and realising I don’t carry any material I could cut, 5mm by 5mm square, I chose a 10mm stainless steel screw and set about filing it down. It took a little while, but fit perfectly in the end. I made a dimple in it for the set screw that hadn’t done its job before and all was well, except I couldn’t test it as a lad was busy below sanding the rudder. I checked it before bed and it seems to be working fine. Later I heard Gerry and Chris, the two boats we met in Agua Verde calling for help with their lines as they approached the marina. I wandered down to the pontoon to help. A useful tip I picked up on my travels around is to have some ropes and fenders ready for when you dock, also it’s best to try to be parallel (ish) to the dock when approaching, it’s much harder when you are 90 deg to it 😉 . It was good to see them safely tied up. Later Kathy and I enjoyed a meal at the smart restaurant upstairs, Kathy was delighted to see a decent vegan menu on offer.
By the end of the day, 1/4 of the hull had been sanded, and several very small blisters had been decapitated. Back in Penang, Malaysia, nearly 5 years ago, there were several hundred blisters, many the size of saucers, the hull treatment seems to have worked well.

Costs:
As I was looking at the quotes for the haul out and paint job, which aren’t small, I thought I might pen a few notes on the cost of cruising for us. This seems to be a popular thing on other blogs, so without too much detail:

Monthly costs in the dock: £600 (Typical in the sea of cortez for a 45ft slip)
(Includes electricity, water, facilities, etc, just add food & drink)

Haulout & relaunch cost: £370
Labour to sand and paint hull, (2 guys 5 days ish) £1200
Paint: 3 gallons (11.5 litres) £600
Total haulout & paint job (£2170)

So I would do the haulout every two years normally, this time it’s over three since I painted. So that averages about £1000/year. And £600/month for the slip seems a lot, but because we are at sea/anchor a lot, it probably averages down to £500/month over a year. My costs of running the apartment back on Merseyside wasn’t that much less, when I consider Service charges (£120), Electric/Gas(£100), Council Tax (£110). Food and drink is cheaper here, I sold my home in West Kirby last year, so fortunately I don’t have those bills anymore. So all in all it’s not costing us much to be spending our time hanging out in exotic, tropical paradises as you might think.
Of course there are big ticket items that come up every now and then like new sails every 5-10 years (£5000), new standing rigging (Wires to hold up the mast) every 10 years, (£4000), failing electronics, probably a few hundred pounds every year. At some point I will need a new engine, that could be anywhere between £5000 and £15,000 depending on who does the work.
The other big cost we have is flying home from far flung places.

Wednesday.
The sanding continues, fortunately it’s not too loud inside the boat, but later a second guy joins and it’s getting a bit noisy. I book a hire car in the marina office so we can spend tomorrow being tourists, and get Kathy to a big supermarket before her shopping withdrawal symptoms kick in. I rub down the propellor, it has no grease in it at all, which is fair enough I suppose. I last serviced it in Sointula nearly two years ago. I spend the day doing some programming for work, it goes remarkably well, and I produce a flash user interface, well flash by my usual standards of 80×24 character, 128 levels of grey! Aren’t plugins great.
The sanding is taking forever.

Thursday
After a half hour of waiting for the car I go to the office to find out the lady there forgot to book it for me. Oh well, Manaña.
The sanding is continuing, It looks like they will complete today. They are doing a great job, but it’s going to be 6 man days work, I’m sure in Kudat, Malaysia it took one guy three days. I decide to have a serious go at bow thruster anodes, the props are badly fouled on the inside and impossible to clean without removal. I have tried several times to take the anodes off on past haulouts, but the bolt that holds them in place wont budge. The zinc has corroded around it, plus I think the wrong loctite may have been used on them, until I remove the anodes, I can’t get to the holding nut. Generally the anodes have not changed much in the 5 years they have been on, which in itself is an issue. I have a problem as all my 5mm allen keys needed for these bolts are missing, I think they broke on various jobs, I have one that I have filed down to be a 4.5mm ish key for some odd job in the past. I give up with the one key I find as it just isn’t budging and the key is two long to put across the prop. The shopping list for tomorrow grows. I also need to try and find anodes for the stern of the boat.

Friday.
Hurrah the rental car arrives at 9AM and we load up and head into town, I stop at an auto-service parts place and pick up an expensive allen key set, that comes with a snazzy ratchet wrench for about £15. The same or similar tool was available in Mr Tool, in Malaysia for no more than £5. Anything that is imported here, even value Chinese goods is pricey. I wonder if this is how the UK will be next year, A GoPro for £300 will cost £400 due to taxes & shipping fees. Next off to the Chandlers, where they have no suitable zinc anodes, I also can’t find any drill bits that I could use to fashion a block of zinc I have into the part I need for the stern.

I show Kathy around town, This is my third trip here and I’m almost a local. The wind blows very strong, but we find a lovely spot for lunch in the town square. I will let Kathy write about that, so far she has fared well for Vegan meals, largely thanks to the ingredients in Guacamole being quite veggie.

Off to the supermarkets (note the plural) and I am pleased to be able to stock up on cases of soda and cerveza sin alcohol. Kathy even finds some vegan products in the Ley Supermercado. From the town, we head up into the mountains to visit the mission at San Javier. This is a very old mission, in a valley right up high in the mountains, 30 km from Loreto and very remote. It shows what faith those missionaries must have had, it takes us an hour in a car on a tarmacked road to get there, goodness knows how long it must have taken back in the 17th Century with dirt tracks and donkeys. Kathy is surprised to see this little oasis of a village appear out of the mountains with the mission at the end. It is quite a lovely spot. I’m sure Kathy will elaborate.

Back at the boat I can see they have finished the sanding, but no painting has started yet.

Saturday
Painting begins, but not before I crawl under the boat and get my head under the keel, I can see there’s a large chunk of it missing. I’m guessing it’s from when we hit the mis-chartered rock in Canada, looking at it in detail, I’m thinking the hull material in the area looks messy, I’m wondering if in the past it has been patched up badly. I organise for it to be filled, glassed over and finished with epoxy resin.

Also the strip of damage near the rudder is filled ready for fairing.

I watch a YouTube video from Sidepower, the people who made my bow thruster, about removing the anodes then the prop, but the anode bit seems to have been edited out. It’s not a lot of use, a guy has a bow thruster on the table and he holds the propellor on one side as he undoes the nut on the other. I scroll down to the comments where some guy has written “Thanks for that, but unfortunately I have a boat wrapped around the bow thruster, so your technique doesn’t work.”. Thankfully the reply suggests showing a block of wood through the prop to hold it in place, something I had thought of doing but was worried it would damage the prop. As it turns out this works fine, and the allen keys I bought allows me to remove the anodes, and then the props.
Funnily enough, when I dig out the new anodes from my expensive/tiny boat bits locker, I find two 5mm allen keys in there, I obviously thought at some point in the past, this would be a good place to keep them. Forgetting that I always forget such great ideas. I clean and paint the props and will refit them tomorrow.

Next I try to drill holes in a large zinc block I have that could replace the wasted zinc on the stern. I always thought you had to drill slowly with metals for best effect, it seems with Zinc it’s better to go like a madman with the fastest drill you can, ignore the smoke and glowing drill bit, just go for it. I am making a big hole with lots of smaller holes, and the only way I can justify the result is that you have to dive under the boat to be able to see what a terrible mess I’ve made of it. In fact I may wait until just before launch to fit it so the boatyard staff don’t laugh at me. As the sun sets we head up to the restaurant here and have a lovely dinner.

Sunday
The boatyard is quiet today, so I clean the prop and then fill it with marine grease.

I finish off hacking a hole in the zinc anode for the stern and fit it. It’s a terrible bodge, but it will work. I expect as the zinc wears away, the nut will come loose and it will vibrate itself to bits. My plan is to replace it and the other one on the port side with the correct anodes when I get back to La Paz, they may be in stock there, if not I can order them. Hopefully I can dive and replace them myself with my new scuba skills. Tomorrow was meant to be launch day, but I think it will need to go back to Tuesday, also we have quite strong northerly winds at the moment, so my plan to go north won’t work right now.
I did a little more checking on the boat weight today, as the ton/tonnes thing always confuses me. The boat weighed 17.5 metric tons in the travel lift slings.
That’s the same as 38,581 lb. Looking in the sales brochure for the boat, the weight (displacement) is stated as 29,000 lb, making us 10,000 lb overweight.

Or 30% overweight. That seems a lot, the problem is that manufacturers always want to play down the weight for sales reasons, lighter boats go faster. So they often leave off things like anchors & chain, fuel and water, cookers, batteries, even the mast sometimes, anything that might be optional. Even so, I think we might be a touch too heavy. Kathy suggested we could lose some books, but I expect she means my books 😉

Monday
The boat bottom has been painted with two coats in most places, there’s more to do, but the final bits will be done in the morning when the boat is in the slings.

The rudder bit has been repaired, it’s not perfect, and the bash to the keel looks fine now, and at least it is solid and no water could work its way into the ballast.

The bow thruster props cleaned up well, I have painted them with the antifoul used on the hull, I’m not sure how well it will work, it was a bit thick going on, but I expect it will soon ablate off.

Tomorrow we launch, into the tail end of a strong northerly, typically we are heading north, against the wind which I expect will be gone by the time we turn for the south. We will explore the islands around Loreto. I’m looking forward to having a faster boat again. The bow thruster let us down on the way into the travel lift, I noticed the control panel LEDs went dim when it was engaged, this might have been because of the growth on the props, but I suspect it is more likely going to be an electrical problem. This could be one of two obvious things, a bad connection, which would be great as that’s an easy fix, but more likely, the batteries can’t supply the many hundreds of amps needed to turn the prop. Tomorrow if the prob is still there I will be running around the boat with my multimeter while Kathy energises the thruster!

Paul Collister.