We are off today

We have checked the forecast, and everything is good for a departure today.

We just need a quick run to the shops to buy a stack of fresh food then we cast off our lines and head for the USA.

Yesterday was fun, it turned out we had to go to Wakayama City to clear out, they were very helpful, but it was still a 3 hour trip to their office by train, and yesterday the tail of the typhoon passed over bringing massive amounts of rain, Kathy was soaked through, as was her now defunct laptop. We were dismayed to see all the trains back delayed by 1 to 2 hours, but pleased when ours turned up just 15 mins late, however it wasn’t ours, it was one from a few hours earlier, also delayed. I asked and was told by a passenger it went to Kushimoto, but it only went half way, so we were left in a station 100 miles from the boat in torrential rain with all trains cancelled. Eventually Japan Rail (JR) provided a bus that got us back around 21:30 so it was a long day, just to get a stamp on a bit of paper. Still it was less painful than checking in.

We plan to leave before 12:00 in order to get far enough offshore to have passed the main shipping lanes and be clear of the fishing nets, we will be heading east to seek out the Kurisho current, this is like the gulf stream, unfortunately, it has taken a u turn just here, but by going east I hope to connect with it soon, it will sweep us up to the NE and across towards the Aleutians for a week or so.  The forecasts are excellent now, we might be becalmed a little in a few days time, but I don’t trust the forecast that far ahead, but the general theme of the highs and low pressure is working out well for us.

So I am off now to get 100 eggs, I wonder how many I will break in the bicycle basket, answer on a postcard to, bedraggled and hungry, somewhere near Seattle, USA.

PS I will try to get into the routine of a small post each day on the sat phone, but our position should be available from the link above or here

Paul Collister

 

Setouchi Rally (part 2)

It was free time sailing until Thursday 24th and after a conversation with the wife of the farmer the other night I was keen to visit Sanagi, an island famous for its cats (she also told me about a rabbit island but I thought Paul might baulk at that). It was only a short journey so we left at 11 30. Unfortunately, once underway the pungent aroma of sulphur wafted over from the quarter berth and we had to empty it out again to disconnect another battery. We arrived at Sanagi mid-afternoon and tied to a wall, watched by one solitary cat. A man came over shortly after and told us we could tie to the jetty where the ferry comes in. This was a much better position and I couldn’t wait to get ashore. I had spotted more cats approaching the jetty as we sorted our lines as if word had got out strangers were in town. Cats outnumber people here, and it was no surprise to find the town deserted. There were plenty of houses (several of which were shuttered up) and well-tended gardens but we met few people on our walk. It was a charming ghost town, as if most of the residents had decided to leave en masse one day. The ferry brings visitors over at regular intervals and they bring food for the cats, who also get cared for by the island’s few remaining residents.

We spent three days there and loved it. It was a peaceful and tranquil haven with hardly any traffic or other noise pollution. We got used to the coming and going of the ferry, and the captain always greeted us if we were around as he docked. Some of the islanders came to meet ferry passengers who were bringing provisions and loaded them into vans. The one small shop we saw was closed the whole time we were there, so it could be that the island has a ‘season’ when the shuttered houses are opened to be used as holiday accommodation. When the last ferry of the day had left, taking the day trippers back, it felt good to know it was just us, the islanders and the cats who remained to spend the night there.

The cats were healthy (apart from a few who sported battle scars) and pretty much had the run of the place. They were friendly and let us stroke them (I fell for a handsome ginger one but Paul said no to my request to bring it on board ;)). Most trotted out from gardens, temples or side streets when they heard us approaching and were vocal in their acknowledgment of us. We hadn’t thought to bring any food for them but Paul left some of the fish he’d had for dinner out on the jetty for them one evening. Naturally I took lots of pictures and they’ve been posted on Facebook as well as on Paul’s blog so I won’t overload this one, but here are just a few more of our time on Sanagi and the day trip we took on the ferry to Tadotsu in the rain.

We bid farewell to Sanagi on May 24th for an early departure to the next rally port of Bella Vista. There was an anxious time during the journey when the autohelm stopped working. As with many things, you only realise what a boon it is when it’s no longer an option. Hand steering is very tiring for hours at a time and my heart sank at the prospect. Thankfully Paul managed to effect a temporary repair after an hour of trying various solutions (he always does, determined as he is not to let anything beat him). We arrived at Bella Vista at lunchtime, helped in by KC and a few others. It’s a fairly industrial environment but the sea station was nice enough. The welcome dinner that evening was a more formal affair than the previous gatherings. Tables were laid for a sit down meal and a jazz band was playing.

Heading into Bella Vista

The food kept coming; dish after fishy and meaty dish of it. The wine kept coming too, though and I had slightly more than my own and Paul’s share that evening. Not enough to join Paul for the end of evening speech though. Paul even joined in with a group performance of Rod Stewart’s ‘Sailing’ at the evening’s finale (no video footage unfortunately).

I’m sure I wasn’t the only one with a slightly sore head the next day for the morning trip to a Zen temple. It was a beautiful day for it – like one of the best summer days when it’s not too oppressively hot, just clear, warm and bright. Once again we gathered to get the bus for 9 45 precisely for the short journey to Shinshoji Temple. We were driven through a mountainous, picturesque landscape that reminded me of Alpine villages, especially with the profusion of pretty Japanese houses that looked so much like chalets. A robed Buddhist priest greeted us at the main gate when we got off the bus. He introduced himself as a German who had been living in Japan for 17 years, and went on to tell us he would be showing us around, would give us a short introductory course on the practise and principles of Zah Zen meditation and would preside over a tea ceremony experience. He led us into the campus and we were confronted with the sight of the most beautiful gardens I have ever seen. They looked just like the ones depicted in the Chinese willow pattern design, with bridges over a river, pagodas, gorgeous trees and colourful flowers.

The meditation pavilion took some getting into. First we had to take our shoes off and put some clogs on, which once on should not touch the grass. We formed an orderly line and as instructed, when we reached the door, put our hands together near our chests, bowed once before entering the room – left foot first – and then bowed again once inside. Once we were all sitting on the futons, the priest told us about the history and meaning of Zen meditation before we had a go at it. The rules and requirements for it to work came thick and fast: back straight, legs crossed, arms folded, count breaths, focus eyes on one spot, empty the mind, and so on. I can’t empty my mind, or sit still for very long either so I knew this wouldn’t be for me. Paul says it’s because I give up too easily but I feel that time sitting like that for hours on end is time wasted. The priest told us he had to go through pain barriers for his limbs to get used to the inertia of up to 17 hours in one position, and I thought ‘why would you do that!’ He also explained that there is an option for you to signal if you feel you are losing focus and a priest will beat you over the shoulders to ‘bring you back into line’. We all fell silent for our 5 minute session and I felt the urge to giggle within a minute – along with the urge to fidget. Clearly, being told to be silent and still ignites the need to make noise and move in me. The priest moved around us correcting our postures, and striking those who opted for the stick-beating part.

Trying to focus

In all fairness, he was a lovely guy who answered lots of questions we put to him, and I found myself envying the ‘high’ he obviously got from the whole way of life he was devoted to. It was time for lunch after that and inside that venue, I had the first experience of sitting on the floor dining that Japanese restaurants are known for. Given the Buddhist setting I was pleased to see that the meal wasn’t completely meat and fish-based. Masa, the owner of yacht ‘Bunny’, sat with us and explained what was what. We were treated to ‘tofu miso soup’ and a variety of other traditional dishes including some that I could, for once, sample with the help of Masa’s explanations. His English was good, and his voice was as deep and rich as Morgan Freeman’s.

Masa and Paul

We were split into two groups after this (Japanese and English-speaking). One group would go to the tea ceremony venue, and the other to the light show at the art pavilion and then we would swap.

Our German priest escorted us to the building for the tea ceremony and once inside we sat against the wall while he explained the history of the ritual. Apparently it’s not about the tea (which is just as well because its taste is quite bitter). The emphasis lies in the protocol, ritual and calming atmosphere associated with the preparation. Certainly, the graceful movements of the two young men dressed in flowing black robes who set about serving us conveyed an air of ceremony. They brought us a cake, bowing to each of us as they placed the plate in front of us. The sweetness of the cake is to combat the bitterness of the tea – which was served next with more bowing and whispered greetings. It was all very interesting but I don’t think any one of us finished our drink, and a fair few cakes had only one bite out of them.

He was happy to answer all our many questions

The light show we saw after that is best described as an ambient 20 minutes in a pitch dark room sitting before an infinity pool while lights ‘drop’ onto it. I have to admit it was relaxing, especially with the Brian Eno-like sounds and the huge Art Pavilion it took place in was impressive. It’s described as a ship-shaped building clad in traditional wooden shingles which appears to float over the landscape. The pic below gives a general idea (I was unable to edit it into an upright position on my mobile ?)

Continue reading “Setouchi Rally (part 2)”

The Setouchi Rally

Rally schedule

The welcome briefing for the Setouchi Rally was at 3pm, so we explored our new surroundings on the bikes after lunch. Yuge is a pretty, sedate and quiet coastal town so very similar in appearance to rural seaside villages in Britain it was uncanny. The major difference is the lack of people and traffic, which made for great cycling. The beach we came upon was deserted and we sat soaking up the sun for a while and took a few pictures.

The first task for the participants had been told to us in advance via email. We were all to introduce ourselves in both English and Japanese. Knowing that we wouldn’t be able to memorise the Japanese part, I had written out a crib sheet for us to read out, and we had practised voicing the unfamiliar words for a few days beforehand. The briefing was at a venue just across the road from the sea station. From the 8 boats who were taking part, there were about 25 people; a mix of Australian, Japanese, Canadian and British. After a brief introduction and overview of the rally from KC, the organiser, the introductions began. We were first up, which was just as well, not least because I didn’t have long to be nervous about it all and bottle out. I read my one sentence introduction in Japanese, said the same in English and sat down to polite applause. Paul did the same but elaborated about the boat and our plans in English. After that, I felt put to shame by how much other people said in both languages. If we were being marked for performance there would have been a definite ‘more effort required’ admonishment. However, they all seemed like a friendly bunch, especially when we went back for the welcome party at 6pm where food and drink had been laid on for us all.   This would be the first of many parties where I couldn’t eat much of what was on offer. That isn’t a complaint, and it was always an impressive array if you like meat and fish. I knew it would be the case so I always ate before or after the events, and naturally never refused alcohol 😉 Other people find it more of a problem, and ‘worry’ about why I’m not eating, which in turn leads to a discussion about vegetarianism and so on and so on that I really could do without. We have, however, found a good phrase that usually brings a smile and a change of subject: ‘I’m veggie so Paul has my share of the food – he is teetotal so I have his share of the drink’.

On Saturday May 12th the first events took place. We all gathered at the venue and were introduced to the students we’d be taking out on our boats. From the local college, they were friendly and excited about the trip. We had three young ladies allocated to us, to Paul’s great delight (the much-posted picture shows it). It was a good morning, actually. The girls loved being out on the water and showed lots of interest in the workings of the boat. It was perfect weather for being out motoring around the bay. They loved going under the bridge, especially when they spotted their teacher on it, directly above us taking pictures.

After a short break we set off for the second event: a barbecue in a park. The students would be cooking lunch for the rally people alongside a beach a short walk away from the sea station. Luckily it was a warm, sunny day and they were able to cook and serve the food to us on the outside tables that had been set up. I was touched by their thoughtfulness when they found out I didn’t eat sausages and burgers and fish; they prepared some vegetables for me that they cooked on a separate grill. Plenty of beer, wine and soft drinks were provided too. We sat with a group of Australians who had joined a Japanese motor cruiser for the duration of the rally.

The Australian ladies explained the next event to me during the course of the lunch. Japan is famous for its onsens, and most guide books and sites recommend it as a ‘must do’ experience. The little I knew about them I’d interpreted as a hot spring/spa/Turkish bath type of thing. I had misgivings even then because hot, steamy environments make me claustrophobic but I was determined to at least try. After the detailed description conveyed to me at lunch I almost bottled out and went back to the boat. I tend to avoid anything with long, convoluted instructions and rules. The dos and don’ts for an onsen are staggering. Here’s a general idea of the most important factors – taken from guide books and sites explaining the procedure:

It’s known as ‘naked socialising’; bathing with strangers is supposed to break down barriers. However, when a foreigner visits for the first time he or she is presented with a minefield of potential faux-pas and embarrassment unless the rules are adhered to. Shoes must be removed after paying at reception. In the baths that are segregated the entrances are draped with curtains bearing the gender in Japanese characters (wait for a local if unsure which curtain to enter). Place shoes in a locker, then take all your clothes off and place in a separate locker or basket. Make your way to the washing area. This takes the form of either a shower or sinks with chairs where you can sit and pour jugs of hot water over yourself. Here you must scrub every inch of your body and rinse well because entering the shared baths bearing traces of soap or dirt is considered extremely offensive. Submerge yourself in the springs au naturel; swimwear is a no-no for the authentic experience. Sit and relax in the baths of various temperatures and afterwards repeat the scrubbing thoroughly before exiting (health and safety).

Yikes to most of that, I thought.

However, it was a long and boozy lunch so I had sufficient Dutch courage to fortify me as we walked to the health spa. I should have heeded my misgivings. I won’t disparage the procedure because it’s obviously popular and supposedly relaxing but it just wasn’t for me. I lasted less than five minutes in there before the heat and steam drove me out to the cool of the waiting area where I sat admiring the view and reading while I waited for Paul. At least I can say I gave it a try.

The view from the health spa

A bike ride was on the agenda for the following morning but it was called off due to the heavy rain. At the briefing, KC told us that the second onsen would, however, go ahead later that day. Paul surprised me by saying he would pass on it. I had already decided to sit it out but had expected him to go along. He explained that one plunge hot bath over a weekend was enough – we had plenty of hot water on board for a shower. The students were around all weekend and after they returned from the onsen, they gave out the famous Japanese lunch boxes to everyone, along with beer, tee shirts and badges.

A typical Japanese lunch box

The next part of the rally would resume the following Saturday in the town of Nio, so we were free to do as we pleased until then. One of the first things Paul got on with was fixing the boat’s heater. It took him a whole afternoon but he did it, and it warmed the boat up wonderfully on the chilliest evening we’d had so far.

Most of the other rally boats had left Port Yuge by Monday. We decided to stay on for a few days. One afternoon we went for a long bike ride around the whole island. We had to push the bikes up the steepest parts but the views were fantastic; all the rain and cloud from the previous day had disappeared to leave clear blue skies. The roads, streets and beaches we passed were largely deserted. There are no bars, cafes or convenience stores in the town and just one restaurant. Two supermarkets serve the island, and they were never crowded. All those factors, after the weekend burst of activity from the rally made the town seem even quieter. Nice for a short stay but a bit too quiet for me.

One of the steeper parts

The town of Haru lies opposite the span of water separating it from Yuge. Paul had visited it in Ken and Belinda’s dinghy from Catamaran Free Spirit to see what the chandlery had to offer, and suggested we take a bike ride there across the bridges.  The views from the bridges were worth the strain on the legs from the steep parts, as was the exhilarating descent downhill. We had to get the ferry for the very short ride across the water; I think it lasted less than two minutes but they just go back and forth all day so it’s a very efficient and regular service. Haru was another charming ‘Northern Scottish’ coastal town. A little livelier than Yuge, it even had a couple of cafes and shops that were open.

Ferry to Haru
Ferry back to Yuge
Haru Port

Halfway across the bridges

Haru

By Thursday 17th May we were the only boat from the rally left at Yuge, and found ourselves among several Japanese yachts now using the sea station. One captain got chatting with Paul about respective plans and proved to be an enormous help. He recommended a yacht club for our post-rally journey that was one of the highlights of our Japan stay, and also gifted us a bottle of Saki. The kindness of people continues to touch us the longer we are here. The boat’s stainless steel had a good cleaning over the next couple of days; an ongoing task made easier, or at least more pleasurable for me by listening to books while doing it.

Giving Paul directions for the delightful Ichimonji Yacht Club

The next port of call on the rally was Nio, and we were up early on Saturday 19th May for the journey there. It took five hours, the only slightly stressful part being the crossing of a busy shipping lane. We’re getting used to those now though. We were the first to arrive at the marina and watched the other yachts arrive gradually during the course of the afternoon. The staff at Nio deemed it appropriate to play Kool and the Gang’s ‘Celebration’ on a loop for an over an hour, presumably as a welcome to us.  I could quite happily have sabotaged the music system after 15 minutes of it, however. The 5 30 briefing took place on the storey above the marina office. I had my first taste of Saki there, courtesy of the bus driver who would be driving us to the following day’s picnic venue. He had a huge bottle of it and was going around filling glasses. One sip was enough for me to know I would never touch the stuff again. Luckily there was plenty of wine, and Paul was happy to have my share of the food.

Leaving the sea station at Yuge
Paul’s Albert Einstein impression – on the way to Nio

Later at the party, we were befriended by a lovely Japanese artist and her student daughter and chatted to them most of the evening, along with a Japanese carpenter and his wife who have a boat in the marina. The entertainment took the form of various dances with an Hawaiian theme, which were wonderfully performed using the undulating arm movements so popular in Asian dance. Paul did the speech on behalf of Sister Midnight. These speeches would be a regular event at the end of each party, along with the ‘final clap’ which signified the end of the celebrations. There would be an announcement, a countdown, and then we all clapped our hands together to create a loud noise  😉

A snapchat shot courtesy of the young lady on the right
A more conservative pic
Paul giving the speech

Sunset at Nio

That night we ended up with six Japanese guests on the boat. They were the carpenter and his wife, an organic farmer, an engineer and some friends of the farmer. One of them brought his home grown cooked broad beans which were delicious as a snack. We managed to converse with each other for two hours using their impressive English, Paul’s laptop, mobile phone photos, maps and facial expressions.

Sunday May 20th was the picnic excursion to Mount Shiude. Boarding the bus had the feel of a school outing, or a coach trip where you are all ushered onto the bus at the appointed time, and once seated a head count is taken. As its name suggests, Mount Shiude sits 300 metres above sea level so the bus climbed its way around steep winding roads, with stunning views across the bay during the half hour drive. We were bound for Shiue’s summit, which required a 20 minute walk up from the car park and thankfully wasn’t too strenuous, even in the heat. The lookout point, when we reached it gave us a spectacular view of numerous islands dotting the sea on one side and an island-less sea on the other. Lunchbox picnics were handed out after we’d had our fill of looking and photo-taking, and we all dispersed to eat (I’d brought my own lunch) before walking back down for the bus back at 12 45.

Paul and Ken from Free Spirit V

Back at the boat we found a bag of organic produce (pictured) had been left in the cockpit as a thank you from the farmer we’d chatted with the night before; another kind gesture and one which we were sorry to have missed receiving in person.

As it was such a nice day we went for a bike ride late afternoon and photographed more shrines, statues and the usual beautifully cultivated trees.  Next on our agenda in a break from rally events, was an island said to be inhabited mostly by cats!

Kathy